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Great post @Waggy. It confirms what I was suspecting. If epilame were working like a repellant it would be pretty useless as we want the oil to stay where we place it. It is also consistent with my observations. Oil placed at a fixed point on a treated surface is difficult to move from that point. That is the exact opposite of what had happened on a waxed surface. So again, I feel sceptical about rubbing off the epilame treatment before the oil is applied to the pallet jewel impulse surface. -
I have always used oil as advised by my master. I expect clock grease has improved a lot over time. One thing I found with old grease on mainsprings is it could congeal causing poor timing because the spring couldn't unwind or wind up properly. 400 day movements run on very little oil the less the better. -
Surely it depends on the clock , I only usually restore torsion clocks and I only use oil on mainspring ( small amount) but on the few so called normal pendulum clocks I have done I have used mainspring grease as there is more reserves of power than there is in a torsion clock so it is not so critical. Dell -
https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/files?showfile=Venus/Venus 178.pdf&filename=Venus 178.pdf&dir=Technical Manuals&action=documents  The hour recorder is driven by the barrel and it will only stop if it is held by the hour recorder stop lever 8690. So I would check if this lever (powered by the spring 8691) is really holding the hour recorder in the "chrono off status". I haven't worked on a Venus 178 so far, but on an Omega 861 I chose 9501 grease for the friction spring as it's moving very slow at quite high tension. -
All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
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