Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm aware that this may start an argument akin to the many lubrication discussions, but I ran out of Rodico yesterday and living in the Middle East it takes about 2 weeks to get any deliveries (minimum) unless I am lucky enough that Amazon UAE has it in stock.... long story short... I decided to use some Blue Tack I had in a draw, and I have to be honest I couldn't tell the difference between how it performed and how Rodico performs. It picked up parts without leaving any visible trace and even mopped up any oil/grease over-spill and I even used it to pick the odd speck of dust off the dial... all without bringing on the 'end of times'.

Just curious to know if anyone else had tried it and had any better or worse experiences, I will continue to use it until the Rodico I already have on order turns up, but unless I see a downside I may not order Rodico again.

Posted

Ok. All the Swiss trained watchmakers will be up in arms. But I have been using a mixture of Rodico and Faber Castell brand "blu tack". I learnt that from my mentor and he learnt it from his Swiss master.

And instead of using a huge blob of it in your fingers, we wind a small piece on the tip of a peg wood, just like a Q-tip.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Waggy said:

I'm aware that this may start an argument akin to the many lubrication discussions, but I ran out of Rodico yesterday and living in the Middle East it takes about 2 weeks to get any deliveries (minimum) unless I am lucky enough that Amazon UAE has it in stock.... long story short... I decided to use some Blue Tack I had in a draw, and I have to be honest I couldn't tell the difference between how it performed and how Rodico performs. It picked up parts without leaving any visible trace and even mopped up any oil/grease over-spill and I even used it to pick the odd speck of dust off the dial... all without bringing on the 'end of times'.

Just curious to know if anyone else had tried it and had any better or worse experiences, I will continue to use it until the Rodico I already have on order turns up, but unless I see a downside I may not order Rodico again.

Yes tried blue tack its definitely more tacky and have ended up picking it out of watchparts in the past. I'm sure it has its place, also tried some rodico from China which is more stiff and rubbery . 

Posted
1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

All the Swiss trained watchmakers will be up in arms.

not necessarily I'm Swiss and I have it on my bench access think I have both of them whatever I can find in the shop. Then is not just Swiss strained somebody once wrote an article or the horological times explaining exactly how to dispense it see you don't get oils mixed into it they basically put it in a brass tube and then injected out in little pieces I can't rep you hold it with your tweezers or how that worked and that's promptly thrown away. The excitement they have is it absorbs things and unlike a sponge there's no way to squeeze out what it's absorbed so it can leave a fine residue behind and that would allow oil to spread. On the other hand is still works really good at picking up stuff and taking fingerprints off things.

2 hours ago, Waggy said:

Rodico

then clarifications are needed which version are you using? Notice they have two versions.

https://www.bergeon.swiss/catalogsearch/result/?q=Rodico

2 hours ago, Waggy said:

I'm aware that this may start an argument akin to the many lubrication discussions

oh dear you're promoting an argument about lubrication. At least that's what it looks like by the wording above.

Posted

In days gone by they used a rolled up piece of bread to mop up anything, Blutack is in effect Rodico, except Rodico has less oil in it so it is able to mop it up better.

I think the idea of using blutack until you have some Rodico was a really good idea. If I find something works for me, sod what anyone else thinks about it!

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...