Jump to content

Seiko 7005 Date Wheel Alignment


Recommended Posts

Hello forum,

I posted on here a few months ago about my first ever attempt to service a watch, a Seiko 7005 to be specific. You correctly advised me that I required a new click

I have now sourced a new click and I am continuing with the rebuild. I'm now working on the calendar side of the movement

I am encountering an issue which I hope someone can clarify. The date wheel is misaligned when it is advanced automatically, i.e. not using the date change setting on the crown. When I inspect the movement closely I see that the date jumper spring isn't quite sitting in the right place on the date wheel (see photo). You can see that it doesn't quite sit properly between 16 and 17. When I manually tweak the jumper's position using tweezers the date wheel will align correctly but, alas, when the date advances again the misalignment problem will return. As a rookie, I can't fathom out what must be going wrong for the jumper to always end up in slightly the wrong place

When I set the jumper in the first instance, I ensure it sits properly against the date wheel. However the date advance finger seems to be throwing it off somehow

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks

20221219_161713[4316].jpg

20221219_163157[4315].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  so when you advance the date manually its ok and indexes correctly, yes.  but not when working on its own power,  i should check the driving wheel and finger for wear. The detent spring and detent also for wear and lack of tension. I have attached the sheets for the 7005 and the 7009 as they employ similar systens.

277_Seiko7009A.pdf 3113_Seiko 7005A (1).pdf

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can also try lubricating the tip of the date jumper and the zone of the main plate where the date wheel rests (between 1 and 5 in your photo) (I use HP1300 there). Seiko not always recommend lubbing these areas, but sometimes they do, like in the step 12 of the 6106 assembly.

However, it should not be necessary.

Date-Wheel-Lubrication.jpg

Edited by aac58
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I advance the date manually it's fine. When I advance the date by advancing the time until it passes midnight I see misalignment, see second photo. This is caused by the date jumper not quite moving far enough, see first photo

I've looked at the date driving wheel and date finger under a loupe and they look fine. No missing teeth, no gunk between the teeth

Not sure how I check a spring for lack of tension. It seemed appropriately springy when I installed it, not sure if that's springy enough though

I also lubed the main plate between 1 and 5 as per aac's comment

I still get misalignment. I'm really not sure what's going on here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The term” set” refers to the SPRING having lost its tension Or as you said it’s springiness. This also happens to mainsprings. Any spring under tension for a long period will eventually set. It also depends on the material the spring is made from.   But also as Melt mentioned check the rim of the date wheel for worn or damaged edges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, watchweasol. My working hypothesis is that the spring is set. It's an old watch, so it makes sense

I'm not inclined to blame the date wheel since I've got two 7005 date wheels (one is from a donor movement) and neither will work properly

I've not got a spare date spring though, so I'll source another part and report back

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the date wheel fail to turn correctly only when the dial is on? I've recently swapped dials on a couple 7009's and noticed that if not installed correctly the dial can press down on the movement and prevent the day/date from adjusting correctly. It was a matter of adjusting the dial feet/screws until everything moved clearly.

This might not be your issue, however, but could be worth investigating.

Edited by lexacat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting thought, lexacat. I'm afraid the date wheel won't advance properly even without the dial

I'm working on the assumption above that the date spring is set. I'm still looking for a new date spring, not many ebay auctions running over the Xmas period

I will keep everyone posted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this method worked out ! 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...