Jump to content

Hand cleaning


Stuart2

Recommended Posts

Horolene clock cleaner is the one I used many years ago. I understand the one watchweasol mentioned is cheaper both will do the same thing. You mentioned cast brass if it is cast what ever you do do not use one of those ultrasonic cleaners as it can and will cause stress fractures in the brass. What type of clock movement is it?

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If it's any consolation, OH, I'm one of those who's been paying attention.   Dealing primarily with antique pocket watches, and understanding that metallurgy was a bit different back then, I decided to educate myself more about how these ultrasonic cleaners work, and what all the hubbub was about.
Apparently these machines make use of an aquatic principle called cavitation, whereby the sound waves cause the liquid to form tiny pockets (or cavities) of vaporized liguid which, because the temperature has *not* been raised to boiling point, will soon collapse and have the effect of loosening stubborn grime.  
Not knowing how aggressive this action could be, I at first wasn't sure how something like that could affect harder material like metal.  Then I read about the effect of cavitation on boat propellers.  Holy carp!  Cavitation can cause pitting in the metal propeller!  If the propeller moves too quick through the water, in the space left behind by where the blade was, a pocket can instantly form and collapse - with such force that it puts a tiny divot in the metal.
So I learned that there are variables too.  If the brass or steel is too old and/or too soft, it can be more vulnerable to cavitation.  If the ultrasonic machine has a higher power setting than most, and you use that setting, it can cause damage.  Micro-fractures in the metal can be a focal point for cavitation.  Leaving the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner too long can eventually cause damage.  It's a lot to think about.  
And yet, some people are good at using them, and they clean different kinds of jewelry all the time.  Yet, a watch is more than just jewelry; it has to function as a machine.  So...I think I will put off getting an ultrasound for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I hope people pay attention to what I have been saying for ages about ultrasonic cleaners and what can happen to parts. Just imagine if this was a wheel from a very expensive antique clock.  I thank you for posting that photo. 

This was from a rather expensive fusee platform clock. 
the clock that I’m having snags with due to the badly worn teeth on the fusee and the centres being lost from previous servicing where it wasn’t bushed but spiked. 
myself and my mentor have adjusted the centres and it ran for 8 whole winds but is now stopping every few days and is showing brass shavings on the centre wheel leaves which  run on the fusee teeth.

So the hunt for a replacement fusee continues 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Any chance of your mentor making a new one? if not you should be able to have one made. 

What a whole new fusee? The teeth and the cone are one unit, there is no join, the only join is where the arbor runs up the centre of the fusee. 

 I’m thinking that’s a big lump of brass that’s been turned down.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, oldhippy said:

By your reply you seamed shocked. Yes it can be made. I would look at a copy of clock magazine at the adds. Or better still contact Tommy Jobson. Here is his link https://www.horologiumprecision.co.uk/tommy-jobson

I’ll be honest yes I am a little shocked, that’s a lot of tooling required to machine a complete fusee, from the ratchet teeth inside to the Channels for the chain, then the stop lever and lastly ( my problem area ) cutting the teeth on the wheel itself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There a few videos on Youtube you might like to look up. I know Steffen Erich Pahlow has one where he is using a very old tool that cuts the fusee cone channels. You might have to consider that the replacement has to be made in sections, first the cone then secondly the wheel with teeth then screwed together like most are. I would still like to know what your mentor would suggest. Cant you cut out the worn teeth and solder a brass block in then cut them by hand using needle files You might have to agree to put it down to being beyond repair due to price.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/28/2022 at 1:33 PM, transporter said:

What a whole new fusee? The teeth and the cone are one unit, there is no join, the only join is where the arbor runs up the centre of the fusee. 

You know it be really nice is a picture. The problem is what looks obvious to you may not look obvious to us based on our experiences so having a picture of exactly what were talking about would be quite helpful.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for the late reply, also apologies for my massive brain fart, wasnt concentrationg and totally forgot the " barrell Cap " is seperate, so the hunt continues for either a replacement fusee complete or a replacement barrel cap.

I may be able to gile new teeth on the original but again would need to adjust the depthing to the centre wheel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...