Jump to content

Hand cleaning


Stuart2

Recommended Posts

Horolene clock cleaner is the one I used many years ago. I understand the one watchweasol mentioned is cheaper both will do the same thing. You mentioned cast brass if it is cast what ever you do do not use one of those ultrasonic cleaners as it can and will cause stress fractures in the brass. What type of clock movement is it?

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If it's any consolation, OH, I'm one of those who's been paying attention.   Dealing primarily with antique pocket watches, and understanding that metallurgy was a bit different back then, I decided to educate myself more about how these ultrasonic cleaners work, and what all the hubbub was about.
Apparently these machines make use of an aquatic principle called cavitation, whereby the sound waves cause the liquid to form tiny pockets (or cavities) of vaporized liguid which, because the temperature has *not* been raised to boiling point, will soon collapse and have the effect of loosening stubborn grime.  
Not knowing how aggressive this action could be, I at first wasn't sure how something like that could affect harder material like metal.  Then I read about the effect of cavitation on boat propellers.  Holy carp!  Cavitation can cause pitting in the metal propeller!  If the propeller moves too quick through the water, in the space left behind by where the blade was, a pocket can instantly form and collapse - with such force that it puts a tiny divot in the metal.
So I learned that there are variables too.  If the brass or steel is too old and/or too soft, it can be more vulnerable to cavitation.  If the ultrasonic machine has a higher power setting than most, and you use that setting, it can cause damage.  Micro-fractures in the metal can be a focal point for cavitation.  Leaving the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner too long can eventually cause damage.  It's a lot to think about.  
And yet, some people are good at using them, and they clean different kinds of jewelry all the time.  Yet, a watch is more than just jewelry; it has to function as a machine.  So...I think I will put off getting an ultrasound for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I hope people pay attention to what I have been saying for ages about ultrasonic cleaners and what can happen to parts. Just imagine if this was a wheel from a very expensive antique clock.  I thank you for posting that photo. 

This was from a rather expensive fusee platform clock. 
the clock that I’m having snags with due to the badly worn teeth on the fusee and the centres being lost from previous servicing where it wasn’t bushed but spiked. 
myself and my mentor have adjusted the centres and it ran for 8 whole winds but is now stopping every few days and is showing brass shavings on the centre wheel leaves which  run on the fusee teeth.

So the hunt for a replacement fusee continues 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Any chance of your mentor making a new one? if not you should be able to have one made. 

What a whole new fusee? The teeth and the cone are one unit, there is no join, the only join is where the arbor runs up the centre of the fusee. 

 I’m thinking that’s a big lump of brass that’s been turned down.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, oldhippy said:

By your reply you seamed shocked. Yes it can be made. I would look at a copy of clock magazine at the adds. Or better still contact Tommy Jobson. Here is his link https://www.horologiumprecision.co.uk/tommy-jobson

I’ll be honest yes I am a little shocked, that’s a lot of tooling required to machine a complete fusee, from the ratchet teeth inside to the Channels for the chain, then the stop lever and lastly ( my problem area ) cutting the teeth on the wheel itself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There a few videos on Youtube you might like to look up. I know Steffen Erich Pahlow has one where he is using a very old tool that cuts the fusee cone channels. You might have to consider that the replacement has to be made in sections, first the cone then secondly the wheel with teeth then screwed together like most are. I would still like to know what your mentor would suggest. Cant you cut out the worn teeth and solder a brass block in then cut them by hand using needle files You might have to agree to put it down to being beyond repair due to price.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/28/2022 at 1:33 PM, transporter said:

What a whole new fusee? The teeth and the cone are one unit, there is no join, the only join is where the arbor runs up the centre of the fusee. 

You know it be really nice is a picture. The problem is what looks obvious to you may not look obvious to us based on our experiences so having a picture of exactly what were talking about would be quite helpful.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for the late reply, also apologies for my massive brain fart, wasnt concentrationg and totally forgot the " barrell Cap " is seperate, so the hunt continues for either a replacement fusee complete or a replacement barrel cap.

I may be able to gile new teeth on the original but again would need to adjust the depthing to the centre wheel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • although not in this case.  It was the Lugano Convention and its deficiencies that allowed a Swiss court decision in the first place.  This isnt really a Brexit issue at all.  A decision that affects both the EU and the UK should never have been heard in Switzerland. I bet the authorised service centres in the UK are pretty pleased.  It's a massive shame, though; I believe watch owners should be able to choose to have their watch serviced by whoever they trust.
    • Hi guys I think that old hippy is correct, it opens the gates for china to manufacture aftermarket spare parts. considering that they already do work on behalf of the Swiss I guess this decision gives the a little more legitimacy to tool up and I am sure they will take advantage of the situation either with or without the blessing of the Swiss watch industry  Having read about the protectionist machinations of the Swiss in the history of Europe they were the only ones to get fat at everybody else’s expense. I think the outcome could have been guessed at but ,  fair play to Cousins UK for standing up to them.  Now the question,  will everybody boycott Swiss watches and Swatch, no way they will still fill their coffers.  Me I stick with the Japanese once renowned for cheap shitty watches who came good through industrial effort and don’t for get the Russians that most dismiss as low grade crap. Wouldn’t buy a swatch product ever how about you all.? a
    • Hold the crown when in winding position, move the click away from the crown wheel, and then while holding the crown let it slowly unwind. I recollect that you must remove the automatic device bridge first, but maybe I'm wrong. You can first try without removing the automatic device bridge.
    • nevenbekriev- You nailed it with your description of me and my reaction when the clock started ticking again. I am a newbie.  I love the sound and idea of mechanical clocks but the idea of owning one and trying to keep them running has never appealed to me. My wife bought this one and an antique German wall clock.  When I looked into having someone repair them for me, the universal response was "it's really expensive to work on them, you should just replace the movement". So, I had nothing to lose, I started researching them and opened them up. The wife is happy because she hears the sound of the clocks again. But I have gone down the "accuracy" rabbit hole. In the vertical position, the balance wheel was not floating. It was sitting on the bottom of the frame. I adjusted the lower spring collet and got it floating. It easily passed the 270 degree 3 to 5 minute oscillation test. It took 8 minutes for the wheel to completely stop moving.  I put it the unit back in the movement and checked the safety pin. It does not touch the safety roller anywhere in +/-270 degrees rotation from neutral position. But the amplitude of the rotation with the spring fully wound is weak based on what you are saying. It rotates +/-90 degrees from the neutral position.  No, I did not take the movement completely apart.  That seemed way outside my skill set at the time. There is a reason I became an electrical engineer and not a mechanical engineer. I am much more comfortable with moving electrons than tiny moving metal parts. Will I do it in the long run? Anything can happen. I don't seem to be able to let it go.
×
×
  • Create New...