Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Good day, guys!  This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.

 

We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son.  In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.

 

The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.

 

post-603-0-47902300-1434282300_thumb.jpg

 

The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.

 

post-603-0-54835500-1434282306_thumb.jpg

 

I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works.  The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.

 

First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion.  After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.

 

post-603-0-43015200-1434282312_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-15200500-1434282318_thumb.jpg

 

The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next.  Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly.  Then the click comes next.post-603-0-15265100-1434282350_thumb.jpg

 

Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly.  The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder.  Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.

 

post-603-0-91921500-1434282332_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-33107300-1434282344_thumb.jpg

 

I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.

 

post-603-0-76944500-1434282355_thumb.jpg

 

<end of part 1>

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great!  You're still here. 

 

The pallet fork and bridge and the ratchet wheel are then installed.

 

post-603-0-84582400-1434283841_thumb.jpg

 

After cleaning the anti-shock jewels, the balance assembly is then installed.

 

post-603-0-31314000-1434283865_thumb.jpg

 

The movement is turned over to install the keyless and calendar works.  Note the big day corrector spring.  Day quick set is accomplished by pressing on the crown in the first position. When setting the day, the crown pushes the setting lever which in turn pushes the day corrector.

 

post-603-0-39908600-1434283871_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-00505000-1434283884_thumb.jpg

post-603-0-57536800-1434284781_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-14770200-1434284787_thumb.jpg

 

<end of part 2>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't worry, this is the last part.

 

As I was wrapping up the movement service, I noticed that the automatic winding will not work.  I found out that the pawl lever and the second reduction wheel are worn out.  Compare the worn out parts in the left and the replacement parts in the right.

 

post-603-0-59347900-1434285085_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-87943200-1434285088_thumb.jpg

 

After replacing the said parts, I went on to work on replacing the crystal, cleaning the case and bracelets and re-luming the hands.

 

post-603-0-75669100-1434285161_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-84641400-1434285169_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-53046400-1434285157_thumb.jpg

 

Yeah, I could have done better on the hands.  The lume was too thick.

 

I then installed the hands, placed the movement inside and demagnetized the watch.

 

post-603-0-49390300-1434285176_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-32122000-1434285191_thumb.jpg

 

And here's the before and after shot.  All done for a friend for free.   :D

post-603-0-73404600-1434285403_thumb.jpgpost-603-0-70017000-1434285197_thumb.jpg

 

I hope you enjoyed it.  Please let me know any suggestion on how I can improve on my hobby.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work, great to see another old banger restored to its former glory. It does again highlight the main weak spot in Seiko autos - the winding system. Simple & effective design, unfortunately cut short by poor or non existent servicing. If its not the ratchet and/or the pawl it will be the oscillating weight bearing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really good write-up mate.

Isn't it funny how when the word gets out you can fix watches, all the ones hidden in drawers for years suddenly surface :p

I don't think my parents have a friend who's watch is not fully serviced now ha ha!!  Its great practice and confidence buildings to do them though.

 

Also I love the way a new crystal makes a dial face pop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was inspired by this amazing write-up, which ultimately got me embarking on the same with one of my spare 7009s.

 

Am now getting the oils lined up before starting on the cleaning/reassembly.

 

This is my first, so the main objective was to get familiar with the inner workings of the watch, as opposed to the actual service work which should naturally follow.

 

Cheers!

 

IMG_1907.JPG

IMG_1908.JPG

IMG_1909.JPG

IMG_1910.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still highly motivated by Joel's stripdown, I proceed to put the 7009 back together again.

 

When it's done, I see that it doesn't work.

 

Not surprised, or the least bit demotivated, I go ahead and strip it down again.

 

During the process, I see where I have made a mistake in the balance wheel installation.

 

It does not rotate freely as it should.

 

i go ahead to strip the watch all the way down anyway and it seems much easier now.

 

I learn a couple of tweezing and screw-driving techniques that work for me and also note a couple of better tools that might help me better (finer point tweezers, a step smaller screw-driver, etc).

 

Have seen a balance wheel installation video that helps :

 

 

Will call it a day (with the 7009 stripped down as it stands, again) and continue tomorrow.

 

I'm not sure, but I probably should have started a new thread.

 

My apologies, being new to this forum, if I have violated any rules.

 

Cheers!

IMG_5596.JPG

IMG_5597.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By Swissmade
      Hi,
      I am new to watch repair and have mainly been servicing simple eta movements for my own
      I have always wanted a chronograph watch and have found a watch based on a valjoux 7750 with a broken case.
      I want to put the movement into a new case but the dial is a day date and the movement is date only.
      I have sourced all the parts and have fitted them to the movement to add the day function.
      The donor watch didn't use a dial washer / foil, do I need to use one now I have added the day indicator?
      If I do need a foil, what size and where from?
       
      Thanks very much
       
      Stuart
       
       



    • By VWatchie
      Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
      Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)

      Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
      Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
      While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
      For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
      A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
      Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
      Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
      So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life! 
    • By Shirdel
      Hi
      I have recently gotten interested to learn and acquire knowledge about watches and there movements.
      I have a question for the initiated,if there is rust in the parts of the watch must the patts be replaced or can they be cleaned with a rust removal process or is that not advisable due to the parts being very fragile in nature.
       
      Thanks again for youre time.
    • By MattHH
      Hello and greetings to all!,
      I have 2 "tools" perhaps. I don't see a spot for it on my staking tool. Let me back up as well. I have introduced myself on Watch Repair Talk. I said I am a fledgling watch repairer.However, I am more like still in the egg. I have fixed quite a few watches and destroyed even more. Its ok though, I get a box of watches and practice. One time I even got a great deal on a box of watches price wise and it contained 2 working Suunto watches and even a couple of watches that were solid gold. You have to admire and love young adults that sell granddads watches on eBay  for pocket money without a clue what they are selling. If people spend a few bucks to have it appraised it would knock their socks off at what the watch is really worth.
           Sorry I am babbling . If anyone kind enough that knows what these "Tools?" are I would be grateful and possible name my next child after you. The one thing you can not see from the picture is some or most of the hole are tapered.
      Thank-You
      Matt H. Clearwater, Florida

    • By PJA
      Hello there. I am just starting in this hobby of watch repair and after changing some batteries and fixed hands, have bought two books: Beginner Watch Making by Tim Swike which was very helpful to me and Watch Repairing as a Hobby by D.W. Fletcher which I just can't connect too, I guess in terms of writing style and the way he refers to illustrations which are unclear at a time. My question is ther any book that you will recommend for a real beginner about quartz and manual watch repairing. Many thanks for your advice.
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Quick update on this, the lens wasnt glued at all. Just bezel set I to the case like a cabochon stone... I'm assuming that means it's never been replaced.  Anyway, removing it took about 30 seconds. I have the new lug made and ready to solder on (just need to get everyone out of the house for a while so I can work in secret). I was also able to straighten the bent crown. Things are coming together nicely. I just wish I had more time to work on it! Thanks all.
    • Second try, is anyone willing to measure the pin in their headstock? Thanks
    • RESOLVED:  The upper pivot was not seating in the jewel.  Put it on the scope and seated it under direct vision.  Running now.  I'll let it run the new lube in over night and then regulate.   Thanks. RMD
    • OH:  I'm not sure I ever got the pivots seated.  I am going to try once again and will check end shake and make certain the pivots are in the jewels.  I have attempted to seat the pallet at least 10 time today.  what's that saying about doing the same thing over and over . . . Thanks,   RMD
    • A quick look at the parts catalogue sheet on Cousins suggests that your spring isn’t quite the right shape which will always make the guesswork harder. Cousins has them in stock at only £2.20 so worth getting a replacement. The installation is a little unusual, but the Google drive link in this thread has a pretty good image https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1919-favre-leuba-253-service/page/2/ There is also a suggestion in that thread that the barrel arbours might not both be the same. Worth a check they are in the right places.
×
×
  • Create New...