Jump to content

Omega Cosmic 752 Movement Stuck in Case - What would your approach be?


kaan

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I have experience with Cosmic cases, they simply release the movement by sliding it up by the stem as seen in the photo

However in this case, it's like something is stuck inside the rail, the movement wiggles easy, yet with no force it slides up, something is preventing upwards movement

My ideas:

1) Maybe rust, flood the basement with an anti-rust solution that doesn't damage components and keep working

2) (Better) Save the hands, gently attempt to release the dial from the screws, it appears to be wiggling too, not tightly screwed, then get a better view after the dial is out of the way too

(There are also signs of previous trials, so I suspect the previous guy gave up and sold this to me, I bought the watch for the bracelet, so everything after this point is just a bonus)

 

IMG_0424.jpg

Edited by kaan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  I take it this is a one piece case and the movement comes out through the front, or does the back remove and it has the case lugs in and once removed the movement lifts out. un usual for them to jam. have you a picture of the back and sides for reference.   cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we need a slightly better photograph than what we have now? Notice in the section that I've snipped out and where the lines are there is a section recessed to allow you to look farther into the case? With a lot of Omega frontloading watches there's a locking ring that needs to be rotated. In other words you have to have an access to get the ring exactly like this case has. Better lighting and you should build to see the locking ring rotate and the movement will come out.

Omega l ring.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/27/2022 at 4:13 PM, kaan said:

Hi everyone,

I have experience with Cosmic cases, they simply release the movement by sliding it up by the stem as seen in the photo

However in this case, it's like something is stuck inside the rail, the movement wiggles easy, yet with no force it slides up, something is preventing upwards movement

My ideas:

1) Maybe rust, flood the basement with an anti-rust solution that doesn't damage components and keep working

2) (Better) Save the hands, gently attempt to release the dial from the screws, it appears to be wiggling too, not tightly screwed, then get a better view after the dial is out of the way too

(There are also signs of previous trials, so I suspect the previous guy gave up and sold this to me, I bought the watch for the bracelet, so everything after this point is just a bonus)

 

IMG_0424.jpg

Unusual.  Caseback doesn’t remove ?. Can we have a look. I did come across a Lucern that had a false case back wìth a design emblem and with hexagon facets to make it look like a screwback it completely fooled me at first. The split case seam was so fine I almost missed it.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No sadly it doesn't remove, although I think the previous guy tried, as can be seen from the marks - the middle part looks as if it could be removed, the outer part doesn't remove

I've looked inside and can't see any additional locking element

I'll keep looking for an additional locking ring, because either it exists or I'm in a bad situation

IMG_0448.thumb.jpg.a80ceaf4f7f3b8aef61b4cb88e55f934.jpg

I think it's the same design in this video:

 

Let's mark this one as an amateur stupidity, the issue was that when I pulled the crown, it got into the tube like 0.2mm, and even though it appeared like that the male stem was clear, it wasn't so just pushing it inside let the movement slide

So when I just pushed the stem in, the movement slided no problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it all worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this worked for me 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
    • one of the problems we have is visible versus invisible. For instance millennium disulfide another high pressure lubricant black in color. I was told by somebody worked for the Boeing company that they had a piston like device somewhere that has eight call it around it to grab it so it has to slide and in the collet has to grab. But if somebody puts that type of dry grease on where grease with that in it it embeds itself basically in the metal and they have to throw the whole part away they get use it all. So I suspect on all the dry powdery lubricants that they will go into all the basically microscopic cracks and crannies of the metaland that's where it is visually at least until you scrub it off your visually going to see it which is good because you want your lubrication the stay word is. But I'm sure it doesn't last forever on the metal it's just a really nice lubrication  
×
×
  • Create New...