Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

You should enroll in Mark's courses he will teach you all you will need to know. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/29/2022 at 6:40 AM, Michael1962 said:

Welcome to the forum Matthew.

I have heard nothing but good reports about Mark's course as well.

Thank you. Can you point me to Mark's course?

Edited by matthewlawson3
Posted
5 hours ago, grsnovi said:

Thanks for the intro @matthewlawson3, welcome to the WRT forum! I'm also relatively new and I'm in the middle of my first service of an Elgin Grade 313 movement.

How's the journey so far?

Hi, I just started learning how to take apart watch movements and now I'm trying to put back together a Seagull equivalent to the ETA 6497. 

 

I have had a difficult time with putting the wheel train back in place. I thought I had it working and so I put on the wheel train bridge and added in the mainspring barrel and then the barrel bridge and then attempted to turn the center wheel and it won't move now. I took the barrel bridge back off and the barrel removed and still won't move. 

Posted

@matthewlawson3it sounds like maybe your pivots on your train were not properly aligned? Did you install the escapement? Does the train not turn because the pallet fork is engaged with the escapement wheel?

Are your wheels in the correct sequence with each upper/lower wheel properly engaged? 

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, grsnovi said:

@matthewlawson3it sounds like maybe your pivots on your train were not properly aligned? Did you install the escapement? Does the train not turn because the pallet fork is engaged with the escapement wheel?

Are your wheels in the correct sequence with each upper/lower wheel properly engaged? 

I'm thinking maybe the pivots were not aligned properly. I tried to look through the train bridge and see if I could see the top of the pivots and thought I did, but maybe I was seeing things. Escape wheel is installed along with center, third, and fourth wheels. No balance wheel or pallet fork installed yet.

I think the train wheels are in proper sequence with each other, but I will post a picture of it in a day or two and let you all confirm. Does the third wheel in my movement go below the 4th and Center Wheel?

Edited by matthewlawson3
Posted

Might have drawn a diagram before you took them out. I was lucky in that I found an Elgin train diagram so I understand the up/down positions of the smaller gear wheel.

Posted
On 4/5/2022 at 11:12 AM, matthewlawson3 said:

Thank you. Can you point me to Mark's course?

Big green box up the top on the right of the forum.

'Start you watch repair journey'

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...