Jump to content

Installing New Mainspring


Recommended Posts

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

I bet it's happened to everyone, don't get disheartened. 

I find the handle end of a pair of tweezers is a good tool to coax the mainspring into the barrel. It does tend to go in unevenly but it can levelled out without too much force. 

Brass tweezers preferably. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also had trouble with that issue in the past. Especially a very flat mainspring (0.63) nearly drove me mad.

Finally I designed a little tool and a friend with a 3D-printer produced it for me. Once screwed down it holds the spring and its ring tight on the barrel. Then I can just push it down with a brass screwdriver. No „flipping out“-danger anymore.

A4B6C46D-D216-4AF7-996D-385A7850FA00.thumb.jpeg.1509194c42a37a9959f6936d3cd71602.jpeg

CCEA5C0E-7EEE-4860-9AD3-166B77CFD8B7.thumb.jpeg.82107c7fb983e498b0f3282391f37ef0.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Delgetti said:

Sorry, I didn‘t really get it, no native english speaker. Are you asking for the cad-data of that tool? I have it in .stl format.

Yes sir, that is what I was asking.  Are those files something that you wouldn't mind sharing?  STL format is fine.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Delgetti said:

I think .stl can‘t be uploaded here. So send me a message with a mail adress and I will send you the files via mail. 

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, jdm said:

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Thanks jdm. Just created an account. Thingiverse says new users must wait 24 hours before they can publish. So I will be back tomorrow. 🙂

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have problems getting the bridle to sit properly (I've been there), this is how I do it : 

 Put the spring in the washer over the barrel, then press it down flush with the top of the washer with the flat side of brass tweezers.
At this stage it's still held by the washer. 
Then (holding the washer firmly down) with the pointed end of the tweezers, gently push the outer coil down, starting at the bridle. Work around the outer coil and you will feel the spring free itself from the washer. 
Then push the middle of the spring down. 
If any of the outer coil is not fully down, it's easy to push it in with the flat end of the tweezers. 
Job done 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Sorry to hear that. Some additional descripton with sketches. All action very slowly and gently. 1. Push the spring a little bit down in its ring. 2. Put it in the barrel, be sure the spring is really inside the wall. Put both centered on the bottom part of the tool. 3. Screw down the top part of the tool. Be sure the barrel stays centered. Screw down until spring and barrel are really held together with some force. The upper tool part will push the spring further down through the ring automatically. 4. Push the spring down with a brass screwdriver. Be absolutely sure to push the last coil. This is easier if you choose eg. the area with the hook. Do some additional pushes at other places on the diameter until the spring flips into the barrel. Good luck!

 

 

9D524B0E-575C-4AB5-82A3-5D8EFEF9016F.jpeg

ABCED1AB-13D1-424E-87EB-53CBFD147C75.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually moving the spring ring to the edge of the coil is what I've been doing all along and did with the device.  Although, I did lay my screwdriver down on an angle as opposed the perpendicular approach you have in fig 4.  I'll try that next time.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I was pleased to pick up a selection of some tools on ebay (v cheap 🤣), and they've just arrived,  I've been looking for a crystal press for a while, and this one is ideal But in the selection is this thing - what is it for?  (it's about 3" long) Something to do with stem tubes?  
    • You'll have to strip it back anyway.
    • I think I've heard that more than from just Alex. That doesn't make it right though, but I'm convinced i saw some literature diagram explaining why to do that. There must be good info here in the archives, I'll have to have a dig around. 
    • That will mean dismantling the gear train, which with 5 pivots to align was a pain. Probably going to have to though. I'm convinced it's something to do with the great wheel. 
    • As far as I know, the only time an epilame treatment has potential drawbacks is when something is rubbing on the treated part w/o lubrication in between creating abrasive dust. That is, I don't believe in the method of "running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed". So, I think the rule would be; do not epilame treat parts where rubbing is going on without lubrication. Other than that I don't think we have anything to worry about. That said, I'm not an expert, and I'm always happy to learn more. Has any other repairer than Alex suggested or explained the "making-a-groove" method? My impression is that it's just something he constructed in his mind. I have not perceived it as a generally practiced method. Again, I could be wrong!
×
×
  • Create New...