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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Perhaps he means this is wear between the pivot tip and the pivot, as though the jewel hole has worn though a section of pivot above the tip. This I've seen on one or two that i have restored, it makes the tip look vaguely mushroom shaped. -
Thank you Knebo, I will not hesitate to do so. And thanks for the other service tips. How to service the reversing wheels is fortunately well known and documented but the other tips were new to me so much appreciated! Well, I tried it. I even washed the ball before I tried it but even though I pulled so hard I almost turned blue in the face, the case back wouldn't budge. I can't understand why case-backs have to be screwed on so tightly. I had an Enicar where the only solution was to attach a nut to the case back with super glue and then unscrew it with a large wrench and even that was sluggish. Anyway, I don't want to superglue a nut to a Rolex case back! It just wouldn't feel right 🫤 Well, @JohnR725, after reading your comments, there is no doubt that a service is in order. Unfortunately, I have no history but I guess that an overhaul (or several) should have been done long ago, especially as the rotor shaft is worn out. Thanks also to both of you for all the PDF documents that I have now saved on my OneDrive. It will be very interesting to read them. -
It looks like Ronda 4818 is the one you want. I can't find any reference to a shock protected staff. I've never heard of a pivot becoming domed. They are hardened so should only wear down, not deform. Do you have the means of taking a photo of it? Changing a staff is not that difficult. It's like a lot of skills in watchmaking, once you've done it a few times it becomes easy, but it's a bit scary the first time. There are plenty of Youtube videos showing how to do it. -
By rjenkinsgb · Posted
I was given a 1920s? Limit pocket watch in very poor condition a few days ago. The case back was very badly rusted with deep pitting. Someone on here advised me that the case was originally blued gunmetal, so I thought I'd see what was possible with it, to make it not quite so bad at least! Heat bluing seemed out, as the hinge looks to be brazed in place & I did not want to risk it falling apart! I got a bottle of "Jenolite gun blue" to try. First, I sanded the back to remove all visible rust, working from 1000 down to 7000 grade. There was no visible brown at that but still remains of deep pitting, that I though would take too much metal off to fully remove. An ultrasonic clean in weak Ajax floor cleaner solution for a degrease, as I usually do with case parts, rinses in the ultrasonic then a wash with deionised water followed by IPA to ty and ensure no parts would be "un-wet" in the chemicals. The gun blue mixes 1:3 with deionised water, then soak the parts for 15 minutes; I used a glass jar just big enough to completely submerse the case, and moved it around every couple of minutes to try and ensure an even effect. I did the bezel with a cotton bud, flat in a jar lid, glass in, and the solution applied around the outside with a cotton bud every few minutes, so it did not get on the inner silvered surface. Everything had a good rinse under the tap once done, then a brief deionised water rinse & dried. The finish it totally matt black as it comes out the solution, with the black sediment rubbing off on anything it touches! There were some traces or brown rust after it dried, so I tried boiling it for half an hour, as apparently that should convert brown rust to black?? Once everything had cooled and been dried out, I tried burnishing the surface with thick kitchen towel dry. That seems to work quite well, removing the loose particles and gradually brining it to a dull shine - but it's quite sensitive to pressure and a crease or fingernail pressure leaves a different level of shine to a smooth pad, until that wears through and creases.... It's not finished, my fingers are aching so giving it a break. I'm hoping the finish will even out with further burnishing, though the residual pits in the back are probably there for good & I'm not sure what to do about the traces of brown that have re-appeared. The instructions for the chemical blue say it should be oiled as soon as dry, then left to cure for 24 hours - but I'm not sure about soaking a watch case in oil? I did leave it overnight before boiling & burnishing. It still need more work and detailing! But the effect looks promising. Before: After, still needing further burnishing. All the streaks are pressure marks, where the burnishing has smoother or removed more of the surface material. I'm hoping that a fine brush will clean the details and edges, where a cloth cannot do anything. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
This way removes the process of any material changing heat treatments . I assume the heat from spot welding is so localised it doesn't change any properties of the spring.
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