Jump to content

Pivoting a Pocket Watch Balance Staff


Recommended Posts

I am working on a pocket watch and was thinking of re-pivoting the upper balance staff vs making a new balance staff. Questions:

1. Should I repivot the upper balance staff or make a new staff? Pros and Cons.

2. If I repivot the staff, should I taper the pivot or would a straight pivot work.

3. Should I do this on a lathe and if so do I need to remove the roller table?

A different repair for me for sure.

JD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

I am working on a pocket watch and was thinking of re-pivoting the upper balance staff vs making a new balance staff. Questions:

1. Should I repivot the upper balance staff or make a new staff? Pros and Cons.

2. If I repivot the staff, should I taper the pivot or would a straight pivot work.

3. Should I do this on a lathe and if so do I need to remove the roller table?

A different repair for me for sure.

JD

1- I personally prefer always to make a new staff, the exception being something like a marine chronometer where the staff is very large (and usually very beautiful). Pros of making new: very easy to make sure it's all concentric, takes about the same time as repivoting. Cons- none. Pros of repivoting: can retain some originality for historically important pieces, on complex staffs could save time. Cons: real risk of problems drilling, like drill wandering excentric, drill breaking, drill drilling oversize. Difficult to blend the conical portion and making an invisible job. As always, a risk of splitting the original part when fitting the plug. Time consuming to do a proper job.

2- If you repivot you should make every effort to make the job invisible and original. This is basic good workmanship and applies equally to professionals and hobbiests.

3- This is absolutely a job for the lathe or turns (also a lathe), and yes you should remove the roller table.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

1- I personally prefer always to make a new staff, the exception being something like a marine chronometer where the staff is very large (and usually very beautiful). Pros of making new: very easy to make sure it's all concentric, takes about the same time as repivoting. Cons- none. Pros of repivoting: can retain some originality for historically important pieces, on complex staffs could save time. Cons: real risk of problems drilling, like drill wandering excentric, drill breaking, drill drilling oversize. Difficult to blend the conical portion and making an invisible job. As always, a risk of splitting the original part when fitting the plug. Time consuming to do a proper job.

2- If you repivot you should make every effort to make the job invisible and original. This is basic good workmanship and applies equally to professionals and hobbiests.

3- This is absolutely a job for the lathe or turns (also a lathe), and yes you should remove the roller table.

Really appreciate the comment and advice. I am on the fence but would love to try and do a repivot job for a change. I did buy some wire that I think will work well, but we shall see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, jdm said:

For clocks only indeed, the same concept of "capping pivot" cannot be applied to watches for reasons of size and construction.

Yes, and it also completely flies in the face of:

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

 

2- If you repivot you should make every effort to make the job invisible and original. This is basic good workmanship and applies equally to professionals and hobbiests.

 

Also, while it looks like a good idea for simplifying the process, the reality is to install those caps you will need to:

-not only remove all traces of the original pivots, but also some of the length of the arbor, equal to the wall thickness behind the pivot on the cap. This will require measuring that thickness, and some precision lathe work on the end of a likely long and spindly shaft. Not simple.

-turning a precision diameter, concentrically, to accept the pivot cap. Ideally for a friction fit. Again on the end of a long, thin, possibly quite hard shaft. Not simple.

 

In my opinion it would be simpler and better workmanship all around to drill and fit a new pivot than use those caps. The technique could be useful in the event the arbor splits when fitting a new pivot (it does happen) or some other situation where planting a pivot is simply not possible. Otherwise they just look like the panacea to folks who aren't yet comfortable drilling and fitting pivots.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bulova Accutron 2181 - had an open coil I managed to bring it back into life. Longines 9L - not serviced just pics   Eterna-Matic Centenaire "61" - 1438U - not serviced just pics. Longines Cal 431 - not serviced just pics Lemania Cal 4650 - not serviced, just pics. Risieres Felsa 690 - not serviced, just pics.
    • attached is the tech /parts sheet. .   Can one ask how come it’s full of water. After being told that the waterproofing was not guaranteed.  Problem being electronics don’t mix especially withe the power source being attached.  You may be lucky but I should look out for a replacement movement or working donor to rob the movement from. C720.pdf
    • I thought this may be "right" forum to post this. After 7 months out in Switzerland I got my Navitimer back from Breitling. I had sent it off since its 20 years old to have a complete overhaul done... Nothing major wrong, but I did notice this seconds sundial skipping thingy.... $1300 later and 7 months later, I notice the 'skips' are still here unless the chronometer is engaged. I would think this is likely the hand binding up and maybe clearance with the dial, but at any rate Im interested as to whether this is something I should be returning the watch to Breitling for and insisting on being fixed. See below - 1 minute or so of regular running and then 1 minute with the chronograph engaged.  
    • A friend of mine just gave me an old pocket watch. The case is in very bad condition but the movement itself seems to be in a quite good shape. I can't identify which movement is this, since I have to find a missing winding stem. I attach few photos in a case somebody would be able to give some hints.  Thank's folks
    • Hello everyone, I recently received a request for advice on purchasing a vintage watch, a Waltham A-11 ORD. DEPT. I asked if they were aware that these types of watches have radioactive hands and dials... but they had no idea what I was talking about. So, I thought of creating a video that could help recognize them, starting from the distinctive details to using a Geiger counter. I hope you like it and find it useful for those venturing into the world of vintage watches. Bye.     
×
×
  • Create New...