Bulova split stem.

[markr]

I have a Bulova 11alcd that is missing the female split stem.  I can find an 11aac, 11abc, 11al, 11ac, 11acac, but no 11alcd. Will any of these fit?

[dadistic]

Ok, here's a long and winding road;

I'm guessing you mean an 11ALACD, in which case the base model stem is 11AF.  In the 11AF, the #16C Female stem shows lengths 10.30  and 11.28, and refers to the basic model 11AC

Looking up the 11AC, it shows lengths 9.95, 10.30, and 11.28. 

I'm going to go out on a limb say that an 11AC female stem #16C of the correct length should work.  Either 10.3, or 11.28. Not sure how to measure to determine which one is correct.

Good Luck!

By the way, do you ever go to the NAWCC Milwaukee chapter meetings? I may try to get to one at some point.

 

[GuyMontag]

Here is a handy chart of Bulova split stems:

 

Is there a number on the inside of the case back? If so you can look up in the ABC Catalog the exact stem you need. I do have a few of the 11AC 11.28mm female stems. Let me know if you need one.

 

 

[markr]

Thanks for the help.  I went to the last two meetings.  Plan on joining at the next meeting.  If you come down let me know and i'll buy you lunch and show you my work space and collection.

[markr]

20 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Here is a handy chart of Bulova split stems:

 

Is there a number on the inside of the case back? If so you can look up in the ABC Catalog the exact stem you need. I do have a few of the 11AC 11.28mm female stems. Let me know if you need one.

 

 

Case # f866696.  I don't have an ABC catalog.  There  are different ones.  What one do you recommend?

[GuyMontag]

6 minutes ago, markr said:

Case # f866696.  I don't have an ABC catalog.  There  are different ones.  What one do you recommend?

The case number would be on the inside of the case back and is 3 or 4 numbers, some with a single letter in front. I'm not sure when they started using the case numbers, the earliest example in my own collection is 1962 and none of mine from 1958 have it, so I would guess sometime between 1958 and 1962 is when they started using the case numbers.

 

You can download the ABC Catalog and Supplement here. There is a section at the beginning explaining how to use the case numbers to find the correct Bulova part number. If your watch does have a case number and you look it up, it will have a line showing all of the correct Bulova part numbers, but if it has a split stem it will tell you to go to the "Split Stem" section. For example, case 622, under stem it says "*(Split Stems)", so you go to the Split Stem section (starts on page 110 in my copy) and then look up the case number there. For 622 the correct female split stem is found on page 117 and shows the part as 16C-11AC 11.28 MM. Unfortunately, this section seems to be incomplete and for some reason it doesn't list all of the split stems in this section that it should. For example, case 2981 shows as a split stem and tells you to go the Split Stem section in the catalog, but there is no entry there for that case.

[Michael1962]

Welcome to the forum Mark.

Excuse my ignorance, but why are some watches made with a split stem? It is not something I am really aware of. I have heard it spoken about, but I do not know what they look like or why it was used?

[HectorLooi]

Some watch cases do not have a removable caseback. The case is cut from a solid block of metal, hence they are called monocoque cases.

With such cases, the winding stem is first pulled out and a syringe is placed tightly over the pendant tube and air is forced into the case to "blow out" the crystal.

[jdm]

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

With such cases, the winding stem is first pulled out and a syringe is placed tightly over the pendant tube and air is forced into the case to "blow out" the crystal.

That is a way but not the only one. When you pull out a split stem you will much stress the joint, and when refitting it's even worse, with good chances of breaking it. Beside, some watches may not be airtight enough, or opposedly very tight at the gasket as in monocoque diver's, to pop the crystal out.

So the preferred method, which I recommend, is to remove the crystal first, using a clamp tool like the Seiko S-14, an Omega 106 (and related ones), or even a claw type lift tool, depending on the specific watch. Then lift and giggle dial and mov.t while slowly rotating rhe crown. Once the joint is vertical the stem should separate. The reverse way to refit.