Jump to content

Hei Fra Norge (Hello From Norway)


Recommended Posts

I am new to the interrest of collecting watches. It is only a couple of months old hobby. But I am going "all in" and have in the last month bought about 8 watches, and have a collection of now 11 watches, and love the vintage mechanical watches

 

These are my watches

- Omega Pocketwatch 1916 (inherited from great-great-grandfather)

- Elgin 1917 pocketwatch

- Hamilton 1920 pocetwatch

- Longines with sub-second 1948

- Omega Seamaster 1955 

- Omega Seamaster 1956

- Omega Seamster Automatic 1973

- Urika (japanese wristwatch from early 1970)

- Certina DS Spel (gift from my parents)

- Seiko SNK809 (ok, this is new - but mechanical automatic)

- FitBit Charge activity-"band" (gift from my wife to get me in shape)

 

The Elgin is not working, but this is a project I was thinking about doing myself. 

 

I love the increasing knowledge of watches, about all the gears, and how they interact with each other to make it work like it does. It is absolutely amazing to think about a watch that is 100 years old - you just wind it up - and it runs like it was bought yesterday. It is not much in todays world that you can do the same with. 

 

Ha det bra. :-)

(Bye bye)

 

- Tore

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A warm welcome to the forum Tore, and thank you for the comprehensive introduction. That is an excellent selection of watches you have managed to acquire, Will on the forum will be most impressed. I look forward to hearing more from you in the future. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi. All of these are in daily usage in rotation

 

- Longines with sub-second 1948

- Omega Seamaster 1955 

- Omega Seamaster 1956

- Omega Seamster Automatic 1973

- Urika (japanese wristwatch from early 1970)

- Certina DS Spel (gift from my parents)

- FitBit Charge activity-"band" (gift from my wife to get me in shape)

 

The Urika is increasing by about 10 mins/day but the others keeps time good.

 

I'll post some pictures of them later today. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

The Urika is increasing by about 10 mins/day

Maybe it is time to service it...check for magnetism, jewels with caked oil, and hairspring for shorts (either magnetic, oil or simply kinks)! :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are the pics of some of my watches (at least the interesting ones). I have some problems setting the size in the post, so sorry about a couple of the large images...
 
Omega 1916
post-1004-0-30174000-1430593000_thumb.jp
 
Elgin 1917
post-1004-0-49159800-1430592729_thumb.pn
 
Hamilton 1920
post-1004-0-14893200-1430592731_thumb.jp
 
Longines 1948
post-1004-0-24914600-1430592995_thumb.pnpost-1004-0-59782700-1430592997_thumb.pn
 
Omega Seamaster 1955
post-1004-0-23667000-1430593003_thumb.pn
 
Omega Seamaster 1956 - "Bullseye"
post-1004-0-89279600-1430593005_thumb.pn
 
Omega Seamaster Automatic 1973
post-1004-0-04589500-1430593009_thumb.jp
 
Urika (early 1970)
post-1004-0-95600300-1430593010_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you!

 

I love the vintage models where there are some "wear and tear", like the Seamaster '55 i have with some nice patina to the dial. I love to think about a watch that is 60 years old, that is still working and keeping time nicely, and wondering about all it has been through. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the collection Tore and the choice. With time it can only grow! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

PS. I have a feeling that Urika has a Seiko movement inside...the design is reminiscent of their models of the time. May be easy to fix and parts may be plenty....keep us posted!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!?
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
×
×
  • Create New...