Jump to content

Peerless Cleaning Machine - A Winter restoration Project


Recommended Posts

Restoring a Peerless cleaning machine as a winter project.  It was clearly in very rough condition when I saw it online.  I figure what the heck lets give it a shot and I was able to come to an agreement with the seller.  Once the package arrived I saw the box was ripped and the corners blown out.  Yikes!  Damage wise I found part of the base had cracked and the on off toggle switch snapped.  But, the seller provided full refund so off I went with the restore.  First step was to "defunk"  the years of dirt and grime of which there was plenty.  Next to disassemble and take note of what task lie ahead.  Clearly there s more cleaning and painting but the biggest concern is the condition of the control system and the main motor.

Here are some pics of the control.  I think next task I will take on it to deal with the cracked frame corner. More to come.

 

257943184_230103529227475_6070554339838062774_n (1).jpg

258200361_641074767301114_5207113811768476573_n.jpg

258334476_626526772041325_1754518143809844802_n.jpg

258298594_548960909606490_724445615903844123_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the machine came as pictured without any jars.  I did already start to search for suitable replacements and have some leads.  Progress thus far is that the machine is all taken apart and the cleaning continues.  First up were the platter bearings. They were gummed up with old grease and oil.  A bath in mineral spirts, followed with acetone.  Next a little wd-40 and they are spinning free again.  I will clean them once more in the acetone and use a bearing grease when putting them back into place.   Tomorrow I'm going to stop by my auto mechanic to see if he can braise the cracked piece back into place for me.  I also have to pick up some rust remover  to clean all the other hardware.  My goal is to make the machine functional and to keep an aged used look. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I assume you have to re-coil it. There are companies out there who would do it. I briefly checked the prices for it around my town ( small electric motors) here in the UK and it was a bit steep ( not like I checked a lot of them or there were many of them). My teacher from high school could do it for a lot less, but he works in Hungary. He also made home made devices to count the coils when you re-coiled them (well for transformers not motors), I actually owned one of these ( maybe still in the attic) so theoretically you could do it yourself knowing the diameter of the wire and the number of coils. The part what was doing the counting came from old cassette players. Tricky bit is to place the same amount of coils into the same place when you do this manually as your winding might not be as accurate and neat as the one made in the factory. As everything else it needs practicing and you might not want to spend your time with it. You also seem to have insulation paper between layers if I can see it correctly so it is not just the re-wire, but taking care of the insulation too. My old teacher is so good with all of this that you probably would not know what coil is factory made or made by himself.

 

 

 

Edited by luiazazrambo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I gotta believe the problem is close to the terminals and not deep in the coil. If it were me, I would peel away the paper and see what is going on near the lugs.

That's not a bad idea. You could even remove one coil or two, it would not make a considerable impact on its function. We had to design and make a transformer including making the frame out of bakelite sheets in school and we could never place the required amount of coils into the space we had on that frame (just close to it), yet the output voltage of the transformer was correct to the tenth of a volt. When a coil is dead it is usually burnt so you must be extremely lucky if it is not though. ( Probably someone who works with these things daily should comment on this not me who barely touches these things nowadays.)

Edited by luiazazrambo
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, luiazazrambo said:

I assume you have to re-coil it. There are companies out there who would do it. I briefly checked the prices for it around my town ( small electric motors) here in the UK and it was a bit steep ( not like I checked a lot of them or there were many of them). My teacher from high school could do it for a lot less, but he works in Hungary. He also made home made devices to count the coils when you re-coiled them (well for transformers not motors), I actually owned one of these ( maybe still in the attic) so theoretically you could do it yourself knowing the diameter of the wire and the number of coils. The part what was doing the counting came from old cassette players. Tricky bit is to place the same amount of coils into the same place when you do this manually as your winding might not be as accurate and neat as the one made in the factory. As everything else it needs practicing and you might not want to spend your time with it. You also seem to have insulation paper between layers if I can see it correctly so it is not just the re-wire, but taking care of the insulation too. My old teacher is so good with all of this that you probably would not know what coil is factory made or made by himself.

 

 

 

I did think about having it repaired and will hold that as an alternate option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I cannot tell if the laminated core is continuous through the coil. It looks like there is a separate core that is riveted to the laminate core so there is no gap. This would make it simpler to make the coil and rivet in after winding.

Worse case is I can't used the Auto reverse  feature.   But, of course I do have to check the main motor as well.  That is next up on the to do list. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/21/2021 at 7:59 PM, LittleWatchShop said:

So is that acting as a solenoid, changing the gears to reverse? I thought it was a motor.

On the front panel there is a toggle switch labeled "Auto reverse".   The way I see it is that as the electric motor spins it turns a series of gears.  At the end of the gear train there is a shaft with cam attached to it.  As the cam turns it engages and disengages two switches. Those switches lead to the 110 AC that goes up to the main motor.  So I'll say the end results is the motor spins in one direction and than reverses the direction.  This helps to agitate the parts in the cleaning solution.  How long it spins I'd say is related to the gear train.  

My current thought is if I can find another motor that I can remove the coil from and refit to this one.  No matter, how it turns out this project is fun and giving me a good challenge.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been looking at the photos and just can't figure out the function of that coil. It doesn't appear to be a solenoid. Another thing I noticed is your multimeter is set to the 200R range. That could be a little low if that coil is some kind of servo.

Can you figure out the function of the coil?

Also  have you checked the microswitches?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I know this is an old topic, but can I ask if you know where to find that cleaning basket set? I have a machine but no basket frame and I can't find them for sale anywhere. Could you point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...


Good day all!

I have one of these machines. It is all complete, including cleaning baskets, jars with lids and all. It works as well. If anyone would be interested, I would sell this item for a reasonable price, but I will not part it out. If you want it, it is for sale. If you want parts, get with the guy who buys it and see if he'll sell you parts from it.

It is dirty as it was sitting in a garage for many years. Has some surface rust, but the thing still works.

20240316_105506.jpg

20240316_105516.jpg

20240316_105537.jpg

20240316_105541.jpg

20240316_105543.jpg

20240316_105607.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is a flying cutter, usual one. The cutter itself is shown in the pictures in the first message, it is made of broken tungsten carbide drill bit. I asure that all the angles of the cutter are as they should be. I have video - little older one - that I made when onse making the same kind of winding pinion for a Poljot 2200, which is even smaller than this one. It is not easy to see in the video, but the tool rest moves about 1mm towards the object in Y direction and then returns back untill cutter is rotating. Then the spindle is rotated one tooth ahead and everything repeated untill all teeth are cut.
    • After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
    • Why cut the paper, cut a square around the image and grind to it. 
×
×
  • Create New...