Jump to content

Elma Watch Cleaning Machine


Recommended Posts

Well, got most of it disassembled ready for the soak in acetone. One slight problem though, I can't seem to get the bottom casing off the base plate, the centre shaft won't come off. Mickey, can you advise how this comes off? I've removed the bolt from the bottom, I'm assuming it then pulls out? Mine is stuck solid if that's the case, even after half a can of WD40!

post-434-0-66642500-1422041654_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you know I purchased a vintage Elma cleaning machine recently. Being the curious type and always looking for input as per Jonny 5 (Short Circuit), I sent an Email to Elma asking what year it was made.

To be honest, I didn't really expect to get an answer, as I have contacted companies in the past requesting this sort of information and have had no reply. Well not Elma, within a couple of hours their Technical Support Manager git back to me to say that it was made in 1966.

I thanked him for the fast response, and that it was greatly appreciated. The next thing I receive another email saying "To be honest this is a version I never have seen before. I collected some for our Elma museum...all are different." This got me thinking, has someone modified the machine sometime in the past. I responded by asking him the question.

Back came an immediate reply "I trust this is original design - one of several varities during the years.

Hans Schmidbauer, a Swiss watchmaker was the founder of Elma in 1948. now the Company is still in family hand 3th generation.

Good luck with the machine."

I wish more folk were as helpful!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's awesome Geo...and to tell the truth you might even have a unique version of the machine...might even be worth an exchange for a new one if they have a museum! I know the story of a guy here that had an old chevy and was offered money and a new model by the factory...I don't know the details but it definitely is something to think about.

 

In any case, that's a professional quality machine that will give you service for years to come.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The strange thing about that is that it is now working. Didn't do anything either, it just decided to kick on?!!

To be honest, I generally keep it on the fastest speed anyway unless I have a particularly heavy item in the basket, then I will slow it down until the vibrations stop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's always good to get such a courteous response, isn't it? I bought a J.W. Benson watch a few months ago - cased by Louis Audemars of London - and a descendant of the firm sent me lots of fascinating information about the doings of the firm in London.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, got most of it disassembled ready for the soak in acetone. One slight problem though, I can't seem to get the bottom casing off the base plate, the centre shaft won't come off. Mickey, can you advise how this comes off? I've removed the bolt from the bottom, I'm assuming it then pulls out? Mine is stuck solid if that's the case, even after half a can of WD40!

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

Looking good Paul, regards the motor, its speed, and functionality, its impossible to grasp the speed with the basket out of the chemicals.   Here's a couple of demo videos I just shot for you, the first one out of the chemicals, speed variances, and the second, the same speed changes whilst submerged, the motor feels the velocity of the liquid, and in turn you achieve the correct speeds.

 

Its also worth noting that the central shaft that goes through the motor should be completely cleaned, no surface rust should be present at all.  Using some fine sandpaper whilst the motor is running can clean this up, be careful not to catch yourself anywhere.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Micky, I've cleaned the shaft up, I got all the rust off with a grinding wheel, then polished it back up to give it the shine back. It's looking good. The motor seems ok now, speed wise. I guess I'll find out when I out it all back together and give it a test run. I'm just waiting for delivery of the acetone to strip the old paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...