Jump to content

Just The Right Amount Of Oil...


Recommended Posts

Mark, I've been watching your Part 3 of the chronometer servicing videos - this is the one where the assembly process shows the oiling required.

 

Once again I'm struck by the delicacy required in the oiling process - and how the wrong amoutn can make all the difference between assisting the mechanical process or slowing it down.

 

I'm sure you've seen the collection of videos made by our YouTube friend "BunnSpecial" - I love 'em! (And it's through watching his stuff that I came across your excellent videos). I love them because of the stream of consciousness that he mutters as he works - and the occasional burps :wub:  - and he's obviously a dedicated and skilled amateur. BUT - he seems to put twice as much oil everywhere as you do - fairly cavalier about it, in fact - and I wonder if he's therefore storing up trouble for the future by doing so.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed, over-oiling is as bad (or worse) as under oiling.

 

I was working side-by-side with a guy once - a great watch repairer, but he was stumped. He was working on a cylinder escapement watch (I know - but you have to do what your bosses give you). He could not get any amplitude out of the balance, was there for hours.

 

Eventually he gave it to me (fresh eyes). And with my fresh eyes I saw the problem immediately. Too much oil on the escape wheel pivots. On cleaning the pivots and re-oiling with the correct amount - problem solved, and I was escalated to workshop god (just kidding). But this just illustrates how important it is to get the oil right.

 

But it works the other way around too.

 

I had a vintage Rolex back under guarantee just a few weeks ago where the watch started performing badly - I tracked it down to too little oil in the barrel bearing. Just a drop more and the problem was fixed.

 

Bunn's videos are great. I commented on his last video to encourage him and he responded by saying he shouldn't bother making any more vids after seeing mine. I hope he was just kidding. Perhaps some guys should post comments to further encourage him because he is doing a great job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are great, aren't they? He gives the impression sometimes that he's not sure what goes where, but I think he knows more than he lets on. I love the way his channel says, "No watches were harmed in the making of these videos". :thumbsu:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another Bunnspecial fan here! I love the "donation to the cause" watches. It seems watches are like car engines, too much oil is as bad as too little. I am amazed though watching your video's mark how a tiny drop will do. 

 

Am I right in thinking that each oil offers different dispersion characteristics? Some disperse more freely and widely than others? and then some like the oil you put on the Pallet stones just stays in place?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know Bunns because I suscribed at his channel a year or two but I hate his " burps ' :wub: this is not Professional.. however I love the videos  :money:,, sometimes it works bad... harsh words <_<...anyway a man isn't it? :D.....But I begin to love this forum here :goodjob:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

On the topic of oil, has anybody seen or have experience on the long term effectiveness of synthetic watch oils? I just used it on a 7S36, and it keeps amazing time; but I wonder for how long? Is there a "topic" elsewhere I haven't found yet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello and welcome to the forum JjJ...As far as I know, i've never used synthetic oïl. However, for clocks and Pocket watches, no problem.. I use a tiny bit of sewing oïl high grade on certain pièces of watches but that's all :)...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the topic of oil, has anybody seen or have experience on the long term effectiveness of synthetic watch oils? I just used it on a 7S36, and it keeps amazing time; but I wonder for how long? Is there a "topic" elsewhere I haven't found yet?

 

 

I have been using high grade synthetic watch oils all through my career. It's the only way to go. With most modern calibres you will find the oiling charts will help you decide which oils to use for a particular application.

 

Using 9010 for train wheels is fairly standard, however, HP-500 and HP1300 is more commonly being recommended for ETA2892-A2 based movements for example.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope you don' mind if I share a problem that I had with my third venture into watch servicing as it is oil related.

The watch was a triple date moonphase powered by a Venus 203 movement belonging to a friend. I stripped it down completely and gave all the parts a good watch in lighter fuel followed by a session in my ultrasonic bath.

Everything looked great and I put the watch back together adhering to the not too much oil regime. When full assembled everything was working perfectly and all I had to do was keep it for a week and make minor rate changes. I then gave it back to my friend who was absolutely delighted. I'll cut to the chase, the next day the watch stopped???? At first I thought he was joking, but he wasn't.

I stripped the watch completely and on very close inspection (I should have done that the first time), I discovered that there had still been some dried up oil in a few of the jewels. The new oil had soaked in and expanded this resulting in it gripping the pinions. After another five blasts in the ultrasonic all the jewels were properly clean.

The watch was reassembled and has now been running for eighteen months and keeping good time.

Don't assume that because it looks clean that it is clean!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

JjJ, may I ask what oils did you use in that Seiko movement (by section or subsystem)? The technical guide lists Moebious A, Seiko S-4 and Seiko S-6. Since I can't seem to find what is it they are referring to (oil equivalents), I just go with the ETA schedule for the 2801 et al...kind of.

 

Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Spotted this post as I haven't received any of my new(bie) watch repair books yet and am very curious about oils and lubricants in watches.

 

Geo, you mention lighter fuel in your post during cleanup but was it also used as the primary lubricant after cleanup or is a synthetic watch oil more appropriate?

 

As a hobby machinist, I have been using good quality kerosene as a cutting fluid for aluminum and it works well.  Maybe it can do as a watch lube as well?

 

This is likely going to be one of those "newbie" questions so please have patience.  Once I receive all my books I have on order it will likely stop... I hope. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rossco, lighter fluid is only used in the cleaning process only, It has no lubricating properties.

Regarding kerosene, and I'll add WD40 and 3 in one oil to the list, never use any of these to lubricate a watch, only special watch oils should be used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rossco, lighter fluid is only used in the cleaning process only, It has no lubricating properties.

Regarding kerosene, and I'll add WD40 and 3 in one oil to the list, never use any of these to lubricate a watch, only special watch oils should be used.

 

Ahhh, good to know about the 3in1 and watches.  I believe WD40 is basically kerosene and additives so that makes sense as well.

 

I will be investing in some good watch lubricant.

 

Many Thanks!

 

Rossco

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mark keeps a close eye on his forum. I'm sure if you asked him he will reply, he might not do it right away but you will receive his answer.  
    • I kind of think the same, the surface under the oil is the same as the surface around the oil. Can epilame both repel and attract , that doesn't quite make sense in simple terms, but is it more complicated than that.
    • I agree with @JohnR725. Oil on an epilamed surface is essentially the same as water on a waxed surface. The same physical properties are at work (surface tension vs. adhesion). 
    • I think we all get a lot out of this group, and it has been pivotal in my development by the sharing of knowledge, experience and learning from more seasoned experts such as @JohnR725 and others (you know who you are!) as well as fellow novices. I think that having a backup communication plan in reserve so that if there is a future problem just makes good sense. I don't think anyone is trying to undermine the forum, but if something unthinkable happens, like the Ranfft website for example, then it would be good if those who are willing can still keep in contact. Speaking personally, and I know I risk a charge of heresy, it would be good if Mark could be a little more visible in this forum, and maybe give any insight from time to time on the future/progress of forum and instructional videos etc. even if its just to confirm the status quo. I appreciate he is a busy man with a full time job, but so are most of the rest of us and to post a few lines every now and then shouldn't be too much to ask to reassure the restless villagers. Best outcome for me would be a message saying something along the lines of: "Hi guys, all good, no planned changes... enjoy the forum, will message again next month!" Just my two cents.
    • A nice looking watch !! Did you try 9010, instead of the 9415, on the pallet jewels / escape wheel? And if you did, did you notice a difference?
×
×
  • Create New...