Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Folks,

I am replacing a jewel within a gold setting on a S16 Ball Pocket Watch. I pushed the jewel out of the setting with my Seitz jeweling tool, and noticed that part of the very thin lip that folds over the jewel is detached. There may not be enough material to grab the new jewel.

Question: do I try to use the old lip material or do I use my lathe and try to cut in a new lip to burnish over the jewel.

As well, I am looking for a 30/160 olive shaped jewel to fit into the setting: the only jewel I didn’t have. I am also considering modifying a flat edged jewel to fit into the slightly beveled setting.

I did make a video on this project on YouTube.

 

Really appreciate som advice on this repair.

JD

1FA13EAA-4817-474F-A1FD-32A551678A2E.jpeg

9DCA5FE8-77BC-4108-BBF3-4AD6A5A50FBC.jpeg

C8AE9487-F9FE-4F78-A472-CEA7B385A38C.jpeg

B320627D-E2AF-45FD-8394-8CDC917C679A.jpeg

0716BFC5-6F3C-4CDC-9B60-67FE545B3C3C.jpeg

A2B7B688-C4F6-4D20-AB1F-275A013D9553.jpeg

Posted
  On 4/4/2021 at 2:58 PM, jdrichard said:

modifying a flat edged jewel to fit into the slightly beveled setting.

Expand  

If you're burnishing a jewel in you should always modify the edge. Otherwise trying to burnish over a square energy is problematic even though we see people do it. There's a reason why the jewels had the shape they did you should modify the jewels to fit the setting rather than to force the setting to a modern jewel. If you're going to use a unmodified modern jewel just friction at him like you're supposed to.

  On 4/4/2021 at 2:58 PM, jdrichard said:

I pushed the jewel out of the setting with my Seitz jeweling tool

Expand  

If you going to do the burnishing you cannot push the jewel out you will usually or as you discovered break the setting. A better way is to smash the jewel and then open up the setting. Or use the tools specifically designed to do this. Because as you've noticed the setting was holding nice and tight pushing the jewel out has a tendency to break the setting.

  On 4/4/2021 at 2:58 PM, jdrichard said:

Question: do I try to use the old lip material or do I use my lathe and try to cut in a new lip to burnish over the jewel.

Expand  

If you have a modified jewel in other words the rounded edge you could always try because you don't have a lot of choices here so you might as well try the choices you have. But it looks problematic as to whether you have enough material. So you may be able to make a micro cut because you don't have a lot of room and have enough material to burnish. But only with a modified jewel because I doubt should have enough to go over a conventional jewel.

The other option a course is because it looks like the setting is almost smooth inside would be to fit a modern jewel and not worry about the burnishing aspect. Providing there still am enough material left to hold.

  • Like 4
Posted

It doesn't look good. I would machine a new one. With a new one you know it is going to hold, to me that old one looks as if it wouldn't hold the jewel tight and it certainly won't be held evenly all around.  

  • Like 1
Posted

The Daniels book can be handy for some of this sort of stuff - fabricating parts, it includes shaping jewels. Pretty sure there are a few videos on Youtube too.

Posted
  On 4/4/2021 at 9:33 PM, oldhippy said:

It doesn't look good. I would machine a new one. With a new one you know it is going to hold, to me that old one looks as if it wouldn't hold the jewel tight and it certainly won't be held evenly all around.  

Expand  

This is a gold setting so machining a new one required that I have the material. I could put a layer of locktight over the complete jewel and setting and then cut through to expose the jewel. Sort of creating a fake lip. Or, simply locktight in the jewel?? I know it’s not the best solution, however, I don’t have the gold to make the new setting.

Posted

No gold in your workshop? whatever next. OK joke over.

For those that are following this work. This is where we have a repair which comes under restoration or repair. Restorating would meen it is repaired by a gold replacement because that is what the original is made of. Repair means it can be replaced by a brass replacement. It depends on the customer, if it's your own then the decision is yours. It is also a tiny repair/replacement. 

  • Like 1
Posted

If I was doing this, and making a new one wasn't an option, I would check the existing hole diameter with plug gages, then bore a step the correct diameter to friction fit a modern jewel into the setting. You can't use a reamer or through-bore it as the upper side of the setting will be destroyed and look terrible. Most of the time these setting have a deep cut around the hole for the jewel to provide material and access for burnishing over, this one looks like there's enough to bore to the next jewel size. The friction fitted jewel will hold like any other friction fitted jewel, and the repair will be essentially invisible from the top.

 

I would never use an adhesive on a jewel, or anywhere else in a watch (maybe a little light duty Loctite on stem to crown, but that't it).

Posted
  On 4/4/2021 at 9:51 PM, JGrainger said:

The Daniels book can be handy for some of this sort of stuff - fabricating parts, it includes shaping jewels. Pretty sure there are a few videos on Youtube too.

Expand  

Which Danials book are you referring to. I could have it.

Posted
  On 4/5/2021 at 6:29 AM, oldhippy said:

No gold in your workshop? whatever next. OK joke over.

For those that are following this work. This is where we have a repair which comes under restoration or repair. Restorating would meen it is repaired by a gold replacement because that is what the original is made of. Repair means it can be replaced by a brass replacement. It depends on the customer, if it's your own then the decision is yours. It is also a tiny repair/replacement. 

Expand  

I think the customer wants the original. Last night I sourced a plate for a Ball PW that has this jewel and currently am negotiating it purchase. I will still try to replace the jewel in the original for practice. I may thin the jewel a bit, then cut a micro lip to burnish over the jewel. That may work well.

Posted
  On 4/5/2021 at 7:13 AM, nickelsilver said:

If I was doing this, and making a new one wasn't an option, I would check the existing hole diameter with plug gages, then bore a step the correct diameter to friction fit a modern jewel into the setting. You can't use a reamer or through-bore it as the upper side of the setting will be destroyed and look terrible. Most of the time these setting have a deep cut around the hole for the jewel to provide material and access for burnishing over, this one looks like there's enough to bore to the next jewel size. The friction fitted jewel will hold like any other friction fitted jewel, and the repair will be essentially invisible from the top.

 

I would never use an adhesive on a jewel, or anywhere else in a watch (maybe a little light duty Loctite on stem to crown, but that't it).

Expand  

I think you are correct and that is excellent advice. I have sourced an original plate for a Ball PW and am negotiating the price. I will however fix this jewel in the manner you described and see how well it works. Running into a lot of jewel issues lately with old restorations/repairs. The glue idea was the engineer in me. Put a hat on the jewel and then make a hole that would leave the edges of the hat to hold the jewel.

Posted

If you work on nicer railroad quality pocket watches it would be good to stock a bit of gold round stock for turning out new jewel settings like this. Most watch supply houses also offer jewelry products including round stock. Because it's gold they sell it in small quantities, like by the inch, so you won't have to break the bank to stock it. Gold machines similar to brass but is softer. I personally stock both yellow and rose gold. 

  • Like 2
Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 12:12 AM, Repivot said:

If you work on nicer railroad quality pocket watches it would be good to stock a bit of gold round stock for turning out new jewel settings like this. Most watch supply houses also offer jewelry products including round stock. Because it's gold they sell it in small quantities, like by the inch, so you won't have to break the bank to stock it. Gold machines similar to brass but is softer. I personally stock both yellow and rose gold. 

Expand  

Agree.

Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 12:12 AM, Repivot said:

If you work on nicer railroad quality pocket watches it would be good to stock a bit of gold round stock for turning out new jewel settings like this. Most watch supply houses also offer jewelry products including round stock. Because it's gold they sell it in small quantities, like by the inch, so you won't have to break the bank to stock it. Gold machines similar to brass but is softer. I personally stock both yellow and rose gold. 

Expand  

Thanks and good suggestion.  I will have a look.  As well, I will practice making a brass setting first....been a while since I made one.  Do you recommend a supplier to go to?

Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 12:12 AM, Repivot said:

If you work on nicer railroad quality pocket watches it would be good to stock a bit of gold round stock for turning out new jewel settings like this. Most watch supply houses also offer jewelry products including round stock. Because it's gold they sell it in small quantities, like by the inch, so you won't have to break the bank to stock it. Gold machines similar to brass but is softer. I personally stock both yellow and rose gold. 

Expand  

Also, should i be getting 10K and what gauge?

Posted

A tiny selection of blank rod is what I had. If you measure the size of what you need and see if it comes in that size, as you will know slightly bigger.  

Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 5:59 PM, oldhippy said:

A tiny selection of blank rod is what I had. If you measure the size of what you need and see if it comes in that size, as you will know slightly bigger.  

Expand  

I need to know what k to use 10K 14K. Also need to find a source for the gold rods.

Posted

9 carat is the best because it's the hardest and cheapest. The higher the carat the softer it becomes and costly. Do you know anyone that makes gold jewelry or repair. The company I worked for had their own repairs for jewelry so I got mine from them. 

I have found this place 

https://bettsmetalsales.com/bullion

Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 9:03 PM, oldhippy said:

9 carat is the best because it's the hardest and cheapest. The higher the carat the softer it becomes and costly. Do you know anyone that makes gold jewelry or repair. The company I worked for had their own repairs for jewelry so I got mine from them. 

I have found this place 

https://bettsmetalsales.com/bullion

Expand  

Big thanks OH. Can you use round wire? As no one seems to sell rods.

Posted

I use 14K. Have you ever seen a gold jewel setting tarnished? Lower Karat gold will tarnish. Higher Karat won't as much. Check Cas-ker or Rio Grande. As for gauge, I order based on mm diameter of the setting I need to make, + a little. The customer service rep at the supplier can take it from there. 

Posted
  On 4/6/2021 at 10:52 PM, Repivot said:

I use 14K. Have you ever seen a gold jewel setting tarnished? Lower Karat gold will tarnish. Higher Karat won't as much. Check Cas-ker or Rio Grande. As for gauge, I order based on mm diameter of the setting I need to make, + a little. The customer service rep at the supplier can take it from there. 

Expand  

Thanks. This is what I was looking at but in 10K.

4DEC0020-46D9-41D7-A670-FD2057C3B876.png

Posted

Yes you can use round wire. If you want to know what carat of gold the other ones are in the movement you can alway buy a testing kit. 

Posted
  On 4/7/2021 at 6:18 AM, oldhippy said:

Yes you can use round wire. If you want to know what carat of gold the other ones are in the movement you can alway buy a testing kit. 

Expand  

Here is what I am trying, using the aluminum gold, which hopefully is a perfect match. So I will make the setting and test it before try to friction fit the original. 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I remember the first few times I used my cheap crystal lift, the jaws did not open fully. But with the screw extended I could pull them open with fingers and afterwards it worked fine. Also 50mm is like a medium alarm clock size for a crystal...
    • Depending upon how vintage it is there is no technical documentation to benefit from and very likely never was. Interesting comparison of ? So you're comparing a school and A association with classes to specific technical documentation specifically for specific watches or other documentation? I'm not quite sure how you would actually make that kind of a comparison On the other hand maybe it's because something is missing in your quote Oh other things that are missing from service manuals would be a lot of the early manuals when they were scanned PDFs were specifically scanned for parts only. So a lot of so-called service manuals have no servicing because it was not scanned. Evolution of technical service documentation is quite interesting. It also depends upon the particular company. Some companies the technical documentation is very poor because they assume you're skilled watchmaker you don't need technical documentation. Or maybe they only have aspects of some specific watch and nothing else. Then one of the problems we have in this discussion is if you've never seen what you're missing then you would not know and you might even perceived by not knowing that you're better off without it? For instance many years ago I purchased a watchmaker's estate. In there was omega technical documentation because he ran a jewelry store that sold Omega watches. So there's a few technical documents not overly impressive because Omega assumed your watchmaker and they don't have to give you a detailed about anything. typically the servicing would only cover interesting things and just general suggestions on lubrication. But what I was going to the documentation I found something interesting especially because involved lubrication which I find interesting. I've attached it is a PDF as you can see it covers oiling Omega and of course cleaning because you have to have a clean watch to oil it. I think this was my first exposure to supplemental information as I will call it not found in the general instructions. Oh and pay attention to the lubrication for the keyless I really don't understand why the Swiss goes so insanely lite for lubrication there. Evolution of documentation now cousins has working instructions the cover mostly generic general stuff there is a few specific calibers referred to in the working instruction but mainly it's just general stuff. Before cousins lost access they did obtain a few of the working instructions found at the link below. https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working Here is an example of what happens if you're missing something? Omega also has general instructions for groupings of calibers work covers specific things related to that caliber. This information a course is not found in the general service documents if they even had general service documents a lot of times they do not they just have a parts list. So the specifically covering things that you really need to know and if you don't have this well? For instance there is an older discussion from 2018 but a couple weeks ago it came to life. Somebody was having a problem they fix the problem there very happy at least for now because the problem will come back as they haven't fixed the problem at all. If they had read the general instruction which they did not because they do not have access to it they would discover that putting the hands on his critical how you are supposed to do it because of you don't do it the way you're supposed to the end up with the exact problem you have here a damaged sweep pinion.     Oiling Omega watches 1957.PDF
    • Sorry, no - these are the real model 987801; stainless steel with a white and blue (or black?) dial: https://www.chrono24.co.uk/cartier/ref-987901.htm  
    • Though I mostly do vintage I can’t say I’ve benefitted greatly from any company’s technical documents. Is anything in them infinitely superior to WOSTEP or AWCI? Maybe knowing details of purple winding gears and I guess epilame on all those other parts is fun…I still pull them and read when I can fine them I suppose 🧐…
    • One of the blessings of being an enthusiast is that I can spend whatever time I need on a watch to make it work as well as I can. Before I take on anyone's watch, I always tell them that I can't promise anything about how long it may take and what costs it might bring. Of course, any additional costs must be agreed upon. As you indicate, it's only when you're done that you know for a fact what time was required and the cost. It's the same pattern as with any complex undertaking, and repairing watches can be complex, even very complex. No, far from it. The secrecy from the big brands is honestly one of the most frustrating parts of this hobby. Even when you do manage to get hold of service manuals, they’re often missing crucial details—things like lubrication points or even just the safest way to disassemble and assemble certain components. Luckily, WRT exist, and over time you build up the knowledge and experience to work around the gaps. Sharing tips and hard-earned tricks here makes a huge difference. The secrecy itself seems to be part of the business model. Take the Rolex 3135 as an example—rather than clearly explaining how to safely remove the date ring in publicly available documentation, Rolex sells pricey training programs and certifications to their authorised service centres. And who ends up paying for that in the end? The customers, because independent watchmakers and passionate amateurs are pushed out. It’s a shame, really. If the car industry operated like this, the backlash would be huge.
×
×
  • Create New...