Jump to content

Junghans?

RogerH

By RogerH
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

RogerH WRT Addict

RogerH

Posted
Posted

I've just bought quite a handsome wall clock.....I won't say Vienna but it's that style. The case is ok but needs a good clean up. The ceramic face is in good order and the mech, at first glance looks to be in good order. However,  when you look closer it's clearly had some work, and not that good in my opinion. It does look mechanically sound but it doesn't run for longer than a minute. I think I the main problem is the suspension spring which has clearly been "repaired" but I can't find a replacement anywhere. Am I right in assuming it's a Junghans? The symbol suggests this but any help or info will be much appreciated. 

20210402_143124.jpg

20210402_142850.jpg

20210402_142946.jpg

20210402_142919.jpg

20210402_143100.jpg

20210402_143015.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KarlvonKoln Distinguished Member

KarlvonKoln

Posted
Posted

Lovely old movement otherwise.  I think Old Hippy may drop in and advise shortly.  I knew a site which had all different kinds of suspension steels and other clock stuff, but it was bookmarked on my prior computer which died (and taught me to print out my bookmark file every now and then from here on).  Got a new computer and now wracking my brain to remember all the old sites I once saved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
spectre6000 Distinguished Member

spectre6000

Posted
Posted

That's kinda like printing your map directions rather than just using any of the myriad phone apps. Better would be to use a browser like chrome with an account feature that syncs bookmarks. You can have access to your bookmarks on any machine that can run a chrome browser.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Not much to add apart from I bet the movement is in a case the style of a Vienna. Bad repairs all round  poor job of the suspension which clockboy has pointed you to the replacements. The hole which I have marked which is on the going side needs to be looked at. When I see a clock where the pinions look clean It always points me to the pivots and the holes and teeth. Not bad movements this one has a count wheel strike.    

20210402_143124.thumb.jpg.270043165be60be5e71e6884fb1c49ae.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
RogerH WRT Addict

RogerH

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Not much to add apart from I bet the movement is in a case the style of a Vienna. Bad repairs all round  poor job of the suspension which clockboy has pointed you to the replacements. The hole which I have marked which is on the going side needs to be looked at. When I see a clock where the pinions look clean It always points me to the pivots and the holes and teeth. Not bad movements this one has a count wheel strike.    

20210402_143124.thumb.jpg.270043165be60be5e71e6884fb1c49ae.jpg

Thanks OH, I think it may be alright. I've given them all a clean and they seem ok. I found a sticker saying it was "serviced" in 2005.

20210403_124749.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

It looks a tad to wide but the length will have to be the same length as the original. If as a result the pendulum is to short or long regulation will be troublesome. I am not sure how the two (Leader & Spring) are joined together. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

You normally rivet them. They used to come with the rivet it will be an oblong shape. You most certainly will need to make pendulum adjustments. Also make sure nothing is rubbing or touching around the crutch it has to be free. 

249916901_JunghansSpring.thumb.jpg.9fc869c79683ae99dd65ae77d1feb817.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

That's the type you need. 

You don't want the pendulum touching the bottom of the case as it will not go. When it's all together somewhere around (red mark) where the crutch needs to be. This will be a trial and error. Don't alter the pendulum yet just see how it goes. If it starts going nuts in say an hour then alter the pendulum. 

249916901_JunghansSpring.thumb.jpg.9fc869c79683ae99dd65ae77d1feb817 (1).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, RogerH said:

Thanks OH. Cousins do this...

image.png.af81abf329361136f6d1d6f6051054d5.png

would that be the answer or is that for something else? and is there a correct way of determining the correct length of the pendulum assy including spring?

Thanks Roger another piece of the huge learning curve solved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RogerH WRT Addict

RogerH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, just a quick update. the joining pieces arrived and worked a treat! It still needs a bit of setting up but the mech is running very nicely. The only other issue now is the pendulum weight itself. it should be the standard R&A but it's badly worn. However, I see no need to replace the whole assy. can you get inserts or a replacement cap? I did consider rubbing it back and painting it with a brass enamel paint but any advice on what should be done will be much appreciated. I've seen a few of these now with similar wear so it must be a fairly common problem.

20210413_071807.jpg

20210413_071856.jpg

20210412_180605.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wls1971 Distinguished Member

wls1971

Posted
Posted

I bought one because there where only two, I will scan it when I receive it and make a pdf available to anyone who wants one, resized and printed on glossy paper they should make a good substitute.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
RogerH WRT Addict

RogerH

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, wls1971 said:

You need one of these if its not the right size you can always scan, adjust and reprint:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-PAPER-CARD-R-A-Clock-Pendulum-Insert-2-GLOSS-WHITE-Spares-Parts/265121951048?hash=item3dba7fed48:g:a9IAAOSwkfFbps0~

Brilliant, many thanks. That's the sort of thing I thought there would be plenty of and was surprised to see there wasn't anything about.- I've bought the last one as I have another worn one that will be part of my next project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • HectorLooi
      Battery

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • Murks
      Battery

      By Murks · Posted

      A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
×
×
  • Create New...