Jump to content

Rolex 3035 after coa issue


Yallabye

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I’m having a problem with potentially the balance and or escape wheel. Did a complete coa on this movement. Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting. Now the watch runs but, on the vibrograph shows a lot of time loss. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. Been stressing me out. Checked all the pivots and jewels and everything seems fine. Any and all info would be very much appreciated!

Edited by Yallabye
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, Tudor said:

Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

45 minutes ago, Yallabye said:

. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

You beat me to it, while I was compsing. fast typer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

Shelac is the stuff that acts like glue but wont hurt the base metal over time, it is used on fork pallets jewels to keep them from moving in fork slot, nearly all petrolium base cleaning solutions dissolve shelac rendering pallet jewels loose to move in the fork slot, which ruins escapement at the pallets and can be a cause for a host of escapement disfunctions.

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Yallabye said:

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

The amount of exposure doesn’t matter- the end shake does. Try Joe’s idea of loosening the cock screw and see if things improve. If so, you may need to press the setting out a hair. 

Did you happen to do any hair spring work? At rest, is the roller in line with the pallet fork (straight line between balance pivot, fork and escape wheel)?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

13 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

I replaced the entire setting partly because I was lazy of replacing just the spring itself because whoever worked on it before had broke half of the spring and left it like that so I decided it was easier just to replace the whole thing instead.

 

I adjust the regulating screw for the balance bridge, and also pushed the setting  in a bit more so the escape wheel has less endshake and seemed to make a huge difference. Within 10 secs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

Checking end shake on escape arbour will suffice. You would get zero end shake, if end stones are pushing on escape pivots.

Removal of end stones so to leave escape arbour unbound might create new problem, that is; you want escape wheel and fork pallet jewels level (both in same plane).

You have high percision gears in this piece, so power transfer through out the gear train should feel effortless. 

 Thanks to john's post which shows the design provides an end shake adjustment screw.

Good luck.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
    • Sorry to jump in here, but I didn't want to start a new thread when there's already one regarding the second hand watch market. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking at when buying watches from eBay? I see loads on there for quite cheap, but after reading this thread I'm guessing they're all garbage and not worth the time? I recently bought an old Elco watch for 99p, just to practice on. I'm also really fond of the look of Services watches and Smiths Empire watches. I keep seeing them listed for around 5 or 6 pounds. Are they not worth the time buying? I'm not looking to sell watches to make a profit. I just want to buy watches I like the look of and wear them, but I also don't want to buy things that are going to be impossible to find parts for, or that have already been abused by someone else and broken beyond repair. Any tips?
    • I tried the Moebius 9415 from any sensible amount, down to microscopic a drop (or "super minimalistic"); the size of droplet which makes you really wonder why one would/should apply anything at all? But to no avail, consistently a lower amplitude compared to my Dr.Tillwich 1-3. Of course, as John mentioned above, the Dr.Tillwich 1-3, just like the Moebius 9010, likes to go somewhere else. Since short however, I'm the (proud?) owner of a bottle of Moebius Fixodrop. Can't say that I'm a proud owner of the 9415. So far, I haven't seen or discovered the "magic" of the 9415. Meanwhile, Moebius 🤣 has my money though.........
    • I used to be quite active on The Lotus Forum when I owned my Esprit. I was there for so long, Bibs asked me to be a moderator. I'm not sure how long I did that for, but I think I turned into the second longest serving moderator. When I 'handed back my keys', Bibs made me a Full Forum Member. Normally this is a paid membership. My reward I suppose for helping out for many years. Bibs (forum owner) is quite active on there and if I am not wrong, don't quote me in other words, I think he once said that the money from memberships didn't cover the running cost. He adds money himself to keep it going. Does Mark have any sort of subscription scheme on here? I'll admit that I never paid to be a member on TLF. I should have. I never did. I agree that it would be a good idea that there is some sort of contingency plan for this forum. I intend on becoming more active on here. Life has just been getting in the way recently. I enrolled on Mark's watch course and was keenly doing that, but even that has had to take a back seat for a while. I am looking forward to getting back into that and also starting to do work on the clocks that I have been amassing. To do that successfully, I see myself needing to lean on the other members here. If for whatever reason this forum was to close, I think a great many of us would struggle.
    • I think we are about there, if there were still lots out there then the cost of a watch from 5 years ago would be around the same as it is now (allowing for inflation). Given that the price has gone up several times over we can only assume that supply cannot keep up with demand so we must be at or past peak supply, especially if the trend continues. I see even places like Australia, Ukraine and even South America are selling watches on eBay, picking over their stocks, mixed in with fakes and Frankenwatches etc.
×
×
  • Create New...