Jump to content

opening a mido oceanstar


gary17

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i have a mido oceanstar pwerwind watch,which i bought without the glass. Now i come to look at it i cannot get the movement out. I have removed the split crown stem but around the top of the watch were the  dial meets watch case there is either remains of a plastic glass that has been snapped out or some kind of glue. (see pics). I have read that these early midos were rubber sealed in side to make em water tight.

So is it worth chipping all this plastic or glue away to remove the movement or is this watch to far gone. 

Would it be worth my while and time to replace the gasket and glass (presuming i can remove it.)

I cannot look up the parts as i cannot get inside to see the caliber, though i have read its a AS movement made especially for mido.

Any hints, or anyone or anyone who knows this watch your help would be appreciated.

cheers

gary

IMG_20201026_213216.jpg

IMG_20201026_213221.jpg

IMG_20201026_213227.jpg

IMG_20201026_213238.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what it looks like in your pics I would say that it is the rim of the old crystal that has been left behind when the crystal broke. I have had several watches where the crystyal has failed in this manner and you will need to remove it before you can fit the replacement.

It's also worth a close look at the case to see if it has a removable bezel. If it does then that will need to come off before you can remove the movement, and it may make it easier to remove the remnants of the old crystal. It's not easy to see from your photos though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, gary17 said:

pair of tweezers and a lot of force

 

On 10/26/2020 at 3:21 PM, wudce said:

I think you have to remove the crystal first which I think there a tool for that, then turn the crown so the word MIDO is straight and then turn the case over and the movement should drops out

notice two separate answers. I would look really carefully at your split stem both parts to make sure they look like they will function again. The last time I saw this was at work the other watchmaker did exactly what you did. then discovered that it no longer functioned properly. Attempted to fix the problem by closing the female part to get more grip. But as this is not how this was meant to function at least the one we had maybe you'll be lucky it broke.

not all split stems are meant to come apart by pulling a really really hard. Some are meant to remove the crystal and just slide the movement out. If you're lucky yours was the kind to pull out. I'm the skip over why it took us an entire year to fix the problem. Just a reminder not everything comes apart with force. Or for that matter is attempting to close the female part with force wasn't the option either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...