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Help Fixing Omega Chronostop - Broken Pusher Tube


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I've got the watch back together almost!. The pushers fine now, but when i have tried refitting the crown and stem the watch wont wind. i can pull it out to the second position and move the hands put fully in it just turns and doesn't wind the watch any ideas whats wrong?

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yep the movement is 865. I think i might be getting a bit out of my depth now. I thought i'd done it when i fixed the pusher.

 

I don't want to make things worse now trying to remove the hands. Arrhh! i guess i need a special tool for that? any recomendations?

 

also i've noticed i've cracked the crystal putting it back around the edge, in so i guess i'm gonna have to order a new one of those aswell. anybody know which one it is? do cousins stock it?

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  • 5 months later...

Hi sorry its been a while since i posted. I got  bit disheartened and put the watch in a box and left it for a while. I wasn't sure if i was supposed to start a new post or not but as its a continuation of the original problem/post so i continued here.

 

Having watched marks excellent video on servicing an 865 movement i felt inspired and decided to have a look at fixing the crown not winding problem. I think first i need to remove the hands and face so i can see whats happening under the face and try and fix the problem.

 

I have orded a presta style hand remover which i'm waiting on to start work. Does anyone have any tips for removing the hands and refiting on this watch (omega chronostop - 865 movement, 145.010 case - driver version). As the crown/winder doesn't work the hands aren't set at 12. will this be a problem?

 

Thanks

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I strongly recommend that you use hand levers instead of a presto tool. The centre second hand can be very tight indeed, and it is too easy to damage/fold it with presto type pullers. The leavers will give you much more feel as to what is happening as you pry the hands off. Remember to use a piece of polythene to protect the dial!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I looked at this watch again. I managed to get the hands off ok and the face off. looking at the keyless works it looks like the winding pinion is missing !! I can't quite under stand it as it worked fine before all this problem with the pusher. I can't see how its dropped out as the face has always been on. The winder was out though. is it possible its dropped into the watches inside works somewhere? or is it possible its dropped out? ( I can't understand how. I was going to order a new one from cousins but didn't want to if its possible its stuck somewhere inside the watch. Any thoughts? has this happened to anyone else with the 865 movement?

 

Thanks

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Hi

 

I ordered a new winding pinion and have put the keyless works back together. All seems to be working ok now hurray!  before I put the face and hands back etc I thought I should really take the keyless works back apart and apply grease or oil. does anyone have any thoughts on this? what type of grease / oil. where I can get it from?

 

Thanks

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Moebius 9501 would be fine . But you need so little. Bergeon Kt-22 is a good grease that will do for many other things as o-rings and gaskets .Not that expensive either to buy a small tube . Perfect for pushers . Cousinsuk or Ebay ? 

Edited by rogart63
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Excellent thanks for the advice. hopefully when i've sorted that i've just got to put it all back together. Any advice on putting the hands back on. should I just align them all up to 12 when i put them back on? i also need to fit the new glass any tips for that?

 

Thanks again for all the help and support. I feel like there's a light at the end of the tunnel now.

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If the watch has no date you can just align them up at twelve a clock . But if the watch has a date you will need to wind the clock until the date switches number . Then set and align the hour hand  first . Test that the date change number when the hour hand is at twelve and then you can set  the two other hands on also . The second hand you could set almost anywhere . If it's a quartz it's nice to set the second hand so that it point at the index . Not between :(

Edited by rogart63
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Hang on a minute!

The centre sweep hand is the chronograph second hand and will have to be fitted exactly at 12 when the chronograph is zeroed. In the case of a chronostop that is when the chronograph button is released. I would run the chronograph and release the button to ensure that the hammer has zeroed the mechanism properly then press on the second hand having first aligned it exactly at the 12. The hand has to be pressed on fairly firmly, or it will move from register when operated.

You will of course have to comply with Rogers setting of the hour and minute hand if it has a date function.

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Hi just when I think I'm almost there something goes wrong again!

 

i was trying to fit the new glass to the case (its a tension ring style glass) I've cracked it pressing it back in. (I was using a cheap press i bought off ebay with nylon dyes). Any tips? I'm guessing the alignment moved slightly when i was applying pressure so its pushed harder on one side causing it to crack.  I'm going to have to order a new glass and try again but thought I'd ask if anybody had any tips for fitting a tension ring glass before i tried again?

 

looking on the forums i saw someone had made an insert for a dye using polymorph so thought i might try that to get a better fitting dye for the glass.

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Hi just when I think I'm almost there something goes wrong again!

 

i was trying to fit the new glass to the case (its a tension ring style glass) I've cracked it pressing it back in. (I was using a cheap press i bought off ebay with nylon dyes). Any tips? I'm guessing the alignment moved slightly when i was applying pressure so its pushed harder on one side causing it to crack.  I'm going to have to order a new glass and try again but thought I'd ask if anybody had any tips for fitting a tension ring glass before i tried again?

 

looking on the forums i saw someone had made an insert for a dye using polymorph so thought i might try that to get a better fitting dye for the glass.

You might need one of these. 

 

post-234-0-43494200-1444131241.png

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Just as an aside to the glass issue I'm having, something I noticed whilst repairing the keyless works was a difference in the setting lever spring on my 865 movement (the geneve chronostop driver) to the seamaster 865 movement Mark service's in his excellent video.
 
The setting lever spring in seamaster movement covers the winding pinion so there is no way it can drop out even if you remove the stem however on my movement the setting lever spring does not covert the winding pinion so if the stem is removed it is possible for it to drop out. I would think if you make sure the watch is in the normal running mode not setting mode when you remove the stem the clutch would be pressed against the winding pinion and stop it dropping out.
 
I have attached some pictures so you can see what I mean, I'm new to all this so you guys probably already know all this but just thought I'd mention it in case it helps someone if they are working on the same style watch as mine, as I think this is how I lost the winding pinion on mine.
 
I've ordered a new glass so fingers crossed for the next time. the problem I had was I think as the glass was not sitting in the watch to start with (it was resting on the edge) its moved as I applied pressure.

post-712-0-63503400-1444132947_thumb.jpg

post-712-0-14731900-1444132949.jpg

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Hang on a minute!

The centre sweep hand is the chronograph second hand and will have to be fitted exactly at 12 when the chronograph is zeroed. In the case of a chronostop that is when the chronograph button is released. I would run the chronograph and release the button to ensure that the hammer has zeroed the mechanism properly then press on the second hand having first aligned it exactly at the 12. The hand has to be pressed on fairly firmly, or it will move from register when operated.

You will of course have to comply with Rogers setting of the hour and minute hand if it has a date function.

Forgot it was a chronostop . My bad. 

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Hi i was thinking about fitting the new crystal and thought I'd make a better fitting dye for my cheap press using Lee's ingenious technique (http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/460-curved-glass-easy-home-made-press/?hl=%2Bfitting+%2Bwatch+%2Bglass)

 

However I was also thinking of warming the case (hair dryer or maybe in boiling water ) and cooling the crystal (put the packet in the freezer before opening for 20 mins or so) before i tried fitting them to make it easier to push the new (tension ring style) crystal in.

 

Does anyone see any flaws in this approach? is it likely to make the crystal more brittle? I welcome peoples thoughts.

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I will reiterate what I said earlier.

"Make sure that the die you use presses squarely and evenly only on the edge of the glass. Any pressure in from the edge will cause the crystal to crack."

Ensure you gave the correct gasket fitted and with care it should press in correctly. I suggest using a screw type of press as it is a lot easier ease the pressure on gently while still checking that the crystal is locating correctly.

The crystal lift as shown in Clockboy's post above is for acrylic crystals that require compressing before fitting, not for glass crystals.

Lees idea was excellent, but it was for a glass crystal with a double curve. Like an egg it has a lot more strength when compressed, and a total contact die is a good idea in this case, but I wouldn't recommend it for a flat crystal.

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