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How to oil this autowind?


Lc130

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Hi All,

This is an AS 1916 and I'm a beginner.  Should the circled areas be oiled?  I only have Moebius 8000.  Below is the same plate with with the wheel and clutch(?) installed.

Thank you

Charlie

IMG_4637_LI.thumb.jpg.7bdf6a5be60e0ed2efd1dd6dd4a3b970.jpg1217165093_IMG_4577(1).thumb.JPG.2035f848191ffbfce1473a9afacf1507.JPG

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Hi unless specified otherwise all moving parts bearings and posts carrying wheels and clicks require librication, the part and its function , friction and load require different oils and greases. The two attached publications will give you guidence on which oils/greases to apply and where.

Moebius Oil_Chart.pdf BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches (1).pdf

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Very helpful, thanks!  I did look through the BHI.  It said to follow the manufacturers tech info for autowinders.  

A follow lube question:  I don't have a MS winder.  I have been removing the barrel lid and running the barrel with spring inside through the washing process.  I then add a small dab of Moebius 8200 to the top of the unwound spring.  Would that be optimal given my ability and lack of winder?

Thanks for the advice

Charlie

 

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Hi Charlie  Due to the lack of your resources ,  in that case a little oil that has been applied will do no harm, better that than running the spring dry which would lead eventually to a breakage.    By the way the spring can removed by hand and re fitted the same way. If done carefully and with understanding that rough handling the spring can be damaged.

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2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Charlie  Due to the lack of your resources ,  in that case a little oil that has been applied will do no harm, better that than running the spring dry which would lead eventually to a breakage.    By the way the spring can removed by hand and re fitted the same way. If done carefully and with understanding that rough handling the spring can be damaged.

Ugh!  I didn't realize that a dry spring could break.  I'll have to practice reinstalling a MS by hand.  In the past I couldn't do it.  Very helpful info.  Thank you.

BTW, I have three sets of MS winders from ebay.  Most have the hooks sheared off.  I can't bring myself to buy a new bergeon set.

 

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Fitting them by hand is absolutely fine and a skill I recommend practicing. You are unlikely to snap a white metal alloy spring. Pay attention to to the orientation of the spring if it is a modern “S profile” as part of the spring naturally rests inside out. Focus on the inner coils which will normally turn clockwise from the centre when looking into the barrel from the cap side. 
 

Add a few small drops of oil to soak into the spring. And a tiny amount at the bearings when the cap is snapped on. 

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I guess one always can break all kind off springs and by different reasons.
I still mostly use manual oilers even if I got a bunch of automatic ones.
When looking at your winder assembly I hope you flipped the click so you haven't tried to fit it as it is in your picture.

I would invest in Lubricants and practice cleaning of the watch movement as a first step since that will be the most important steps regardless of what you do in the feature in Horology.
So even if you got only Moebius 8000 you could always practice lubricate your movement and later on improve the status of it.

But now let's se how you could do for now. I taken pictures from the teardown too so you can put it together just by reversing th sequence.

First we have to get the oscillating weight off by loosening the lock. Just loosen the screw so you can move the lock to the side.

AS_Autowind_2.thumb.jpg.a36121cbd99895511519817a0006d6db.jpg

With the lock bolt loose lift the oscillating weight away. To get the autowinder away first screw off the three screws it is fastened with.
AS_Autowind_3.thumb.jpg.608736187669b93ceca5e4038f1692c6.jpg

You could put a extremly small drop in the hole shown in the picture or on the pinion of the gear.

AS_Autowind_4.thumb.jpg.70056fd316c51e7e3e02e5ecaf681b33.jpg

Later on when you put the winder back together lubricate at theese two spots. Just a small drop.
There are nice pictures shoving the amount you should use  in those documents you were presented earlier in this thread .
 

AS_Autowind_5.thumb.jpg.69fa95b475aee3a37885fa9f0add0521.jpg

The same goes here lubricate in these three spots, but not when you take the winding assemly apart, just when you cleaned it and put it all together.

AS_Autowind_6.thumb.jpg.83e10b0165b247accbc9b84f39e91edf.jpg

Always lubricate the surfaces where metal goes against metal.
The lever you call "Clutch" actually is like the click by the crown wheel, since you don't have any reversing wheel in this winder this click will prevent the oscillator to wind the mainspring the wrong way. So it is more like a break.
In your picture it is flipped the wrong way again.

AS_Autowind_7.thumb.jpg.e5764e249389527bbca0e461b83d6e35.jpg
 

After lubricating where metal parts meet eatch other just put the bridge back and go the reverse way in this picture series.
Now you can lubricate in phe previously shown positions.

AS_Autowind_8.thumb.jpg.a7aeaa88294e237f1798577bd764e2ad.jpg
Always try to document by photographing everything before and after you make an egagement on the movement.
Hope this helps..

Edited by HSL
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HSL

Many thanks for the help.  Yes, my picture has the click the wrong way.  

Do you assemble the autowind first and then fix it to the movement?  I've started by fixing just the bottom plate to the movement and then building it.  

Thank you

 

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2 hours ago, Lc130 said:

Do you assemble the autowind first and then fix it to the movement?  I've started by fixing just the bottom plate to the movement and then building it.  

Yes I first build the autowinder assembly.
As you can see me and other people use Rodico not only to clean the movement from stubborn dust but also to fix parts into place while assembling, here the Rodico holds the ratchet driving wheel into place while putting the other parts and springs into place. Otherwise the wheel would with high probability fly away together with the springs.
The bridge then has guide pins which makes it easier to put it in place, little fiddly but easier in the way presented in the pictures..

Edited by HSL
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