Jump to content

An Interesting Rolex


Recommended Posts

This one came in for repair today. Notice something different about the watch back?

 

post-1-0-86752700-1391548876_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-72553200-1391548934_thumb.jpg

 

Possibly the back was lost at some stage and this glass was epoxied in its place. I'm going to have to be resourceful to remove that glass, and when the repair is done I will most likely have to restore it back to how it is now, as much as it pains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like a nightmare to sort out. I have a friend in upstate New York who's a watchmaker specialising in servicing and repair of Hamilton mechanical watches. He's actually an Amish watch repairer (no electricity or batteries for the Amish), and one of his specialities is taking the screw backs from watches and converting them into display backs - but there isn't a hint of epoxy in sight!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How on earth did they manage to lose the case back?  or was it a deliberate act of vandalism?  

 

Mark,  I would imagine finding another case back would at best be expensive and at worst impossible.  So it looks like that despite your best efforts you will still end up with a Frankenwatch.  Looking at the balance wheel cock screw it looks like it has been mauled,  not a good start, it suggests a Gorilla has been let loose on it at some time.  I have every confidence that you will be able to achieve the best result possible given where you are starting from and would like to see the finished result.

 

RogerC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha ha.. Well that was not so bad.

 

It's mineral glass epoxied in so two obvious solutions would be to break the glass out (not easy - it's domed, plus don't want to risk damage to the movement). The other option is to heat up the case - not really an option as it would potentially cause damage to the movement.

 

So my compromise solution - to use a diamond round head drill to make a hole over the bolt screw so I can take the winder out - then blow the glass off with compressed air through the pendant tube. And the glass just popped out, no damage at all.

 

post-1-0-17193400-1391617134_thumb.jpg

 

After drilling.

 

post-1-0-64258800-1391617151_thumb.jpg

 

Winder is out :)

 

post-1-0-67991900-1391617179_thumb.jpg

 

Sealed the hole in the glass with some rodico and created a seal around the pendant tube with a tiny hole for the compressed air to get in.

 

post-1-0-49649800-1391617241_thumb.jpg

 

This is the compressor attachment I used - a dust blower which I use for blowing dust out of a case before re-assembly.

 

post-1-0-45537400-1391617299_thumb.jpg

 

And the glass just popped out with no problems. Sweet  :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the pictures, the case looks as though it might be gold. Perhaps the back was sold for cash! :startle:

 

No - this is a rolled gold case so the back would have been stainless steel. My guess is that the knurling got so bad (people using the wrong tool to try to open it) that it became unusable. But that's just a guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice solution.

I've heard of this as a technique for popping off the crystal from one piece cases to access the movement but never heard of it being adapted for removal of the case back.

 

Sometimes we have to get creative  :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

How did this job work out?

The owner did not invest in a back so I had no choice but to re fit another glass after service.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn't mind it wasn't even as off the movement was in superb condition & worth showing off! It incredible what some see as an exception.

I think the original was lost or damaged but I am not sure.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • What this extra disk next to the pinion? Thats not part of the assembly 
    • It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this method worked out ! 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
×
×
  • Create New...