Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That right gary the spring anchors at that point, the arbour when  fitted winds in the direction to maintain the anchor point.  I will do the pics tonight for you.     V

Cheers

Posted

Yes, that is what the spindle anchors to, all of the spindle rests behind it.

You should keep an eye on the spindle as you lower the MS down inside,  it breaks off  easy. 

Posted

Hi Gary Photos as promised...      They all detail how the spring fits to the barrel wall and to the arbour.  If you are fitting it by hand wear some latex gloves so as not to get fingerprint and moisture on the spring. Cleaner the better     Hope this clarifies the method.

DSCF3297.JPG

DSCF3289.JPG

DSCF3290.JPG

DSCF3291.JPG

DSCF3292.JPG

Posted
7 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Gary Photos as promised...      They all detail how the spring fits to the barrel wall and to the arbour.  If you are fitting it by hand wear some latex gloves so as not to get fingerprint and moisture on the spring. Cleaner the better     Hope this clarifies the method.

DSCF3297.JPG

DSCF3289.JPG

DSCF3290.JPG

DSCF3291.JPG

DSCF3292.JPG

     winding by  hand  (thumbs);   does not work well with gloves on.  vin

Posted

Hi Gary  find attaches the pics.  The problem with your spring is the rivited attachment on the outer end has broken off leaving the rivit stump and nothing to attach to the barrel  see pic 3316 and 3313 enlarged. Without this attachment the spring will not hold on the barrel wall notch 3312. in short the spring is knackered and needs replacing.

DSCF3316.JPG

DSCF3315.JPG

DSCF3314.JPG

DSCF3313.JPG

DSCF3312.JPG

  • Thanks 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @oldhippy, hasn't been on since the 14th of April, I messaged him nine days ago, no reply.  I  hope he's on an around the world trip with endless booze and supermodels.   joking apart, I  hope he's alright. Does anyone know anything? 
    • Some of the older American companies did at least claim to manufacture them so reliably that any one of their tailstocks should perfectly center any one of their headstocks. But it would take probably someone like nickelsilver to verify that in a big enough collection.
    • You also have another potential issue with head and tail stocks, in my research it would seem that for the American style lathes the head and tail stocks were bored as a pair. So a matched pair is good a “pair “ made up from two different lathes cause some headaches. The Swiss Geneva style lathes are much lighter but were apparently made to fit any lathe. I have seen mention of being able to shim the tailstock as well to true up. indexing is again not so straightforward for a watchmaker lathe, at least not as I have found so far. Often a lathe will come with basic indexing which is limited to 60 positions. The full index plates do come up at times for eywatering prices. It is very possible to do that electronically. As well as what @SwissSeiko maybe able to point you to have a look here. https://imakewatches.com/projects/CNCIndexDriver.html   https://imakewatches.com/projects/MillingAttachment.html   Tom
    • On a watch repair discussion group that you know that we love to see naked watches out of the case you show us a box? I think a book on watchmakers lathes should be helpful.   The watchmakers' lathe, its use and abuse; a story of the lathe in its various forms, past and present, its construction and proper uses by     Goodrich, Ward L https://archive.org/details/watchmakerslathe00good  
    • Got it. So a WW lathe will have that graduated drive pulley for different speeds and similar setup for the bed and tailstock, but they won't be fully compatible with one another in terms of parts. Thanks! The picture helps a lot.
×
×
  • Create New...