Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone,

I've been learning a lot here in recent weeks and you all seem like very decent folks so i figured I'd join up. I live in Pennsylvania, USA.

I'm on a couple other forums as well. I enjoy doing case finishing work and am just starting to learn about movements. I recently did my first disassembly and reassembly on a seiko 6119. I got it all back together and running! No lost parts or broken pivots so I was quite happy. Not a true COA by any stretch, but you've got to start somewhere, right? I didn't remove any jewels yet or open the barrel, but it was my first time so i tried to keep it simple. I just stripped everything down to the main plate then went back together. The calendar side was a bit tricky but I just kept taking it apart and going back together until i knew each component's function and where it belongs.

I didn't clean or lubricate anything- this was to see if i could even work competently on such a small scale before I invest any money in cleaning supplies and oil. I think I'll do this procedure a few more times then order some supplies in.

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge here, and thanks to Mark for providing this forum and your excellent videos.

Steve

Posted

Welcome aboard Steve, and well done with your endeavours so far. Like you I enjoy re-finishing the cases as much as working on the movements. I'm sure you'll fit in here just fine, and I look forward to seeing the fruits if your labours sometime.

  • Like 1
Posted

Welcome Steve, well done on getting the Seiko back together, I look forward to hearing about the case refinishing".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Welcome Steve, well done on getting the Seiko back together, I look forward to hearing about the case refinishing".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks daz, the watch in question is a Seiko 6119-5450 Diamatic, case is in very rough condition, and the dial is not very good either. Also, it's missing the part which drives the day wheel, so I have some work to do. I bought this model because it was rough and cheap, and not really a style which I like. This was so I wouldn't feel bad if my attempt at movement disassembly resulted in its utter destruction!

Of course, now my teenage daughter likes it and she's pestering me to restore it for her, so I'd better get busy. So much for it being a throw away.

Off topic, her daily wear watch is a small seiko ladies diver bought on ebay, I think it's a 4205. I had to replace the transmission wheel and tweak the pawl lever but it's running ok now.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...