Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Nut-Job-The-poster.jpg



That's not a nice way to describe yourself! :-)


PS Your needing to set the date on your camera.

 
Date is correct, 7th of the 1st 2015.

Edited by SSTEEL
  • Like 1
Posted

Here's one I prepared earlier..

 

After cleaning both the nut, and case back with acetone, I added superglue, and placed the nut on the case back with a weight for 24 hours.

 

16041669830_e306015ac9.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

Next day, left with this..

 

16042930479_8efbf7651b.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

Then unscrewed as per video, you can hear the dirt/grit in the case back threads as I unscrew it, clearly needs cleaning.

 

 

 

One that is done, soak the case back and nut in acetone for another 24 hours. Not worried about dissolving the nut nylon lock washer.

 

16203169336_cbcd1b3371.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Thanks ro63rto, I'll save that option for last! :) This epoxy resist cold up to -40 celcius...My fridge my not make a dent on it.

 

i deliver to duke hospital and their research facilities. one of their "refrigerators" is cooled to -80 C....i'd look like a nut if i asked to put my watch case in there. lol

Posted

 

i'd look like a nut if i asked to put my watch case in there. lol

errr....which nut goes into the fridge? :D

 

Sorry ramrod, I couldn't resist! You are not alone, I would have liked you to see my family's faces when they first saw what I was doing with the watch when I first started doing this! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

you'd be less of an individual if you hadn't gone for that one, bob. perfect!

i'm gonna pull out the epoxy today and get these two done.

  • Like 1
Posted

It is supposed to work on bezels but I have mixed feelings about this one...it is a cheapo from ebay...not too cheap though! I used it to hold the base and knock the nut off with the hammer. Remember I used epoxy which is more resistant to acetone than super glue. I would go with the superglue any time after this experience!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...