Jump to content

Question about poising


Recommended Posts

Hi. I've recently decided to try watch adjusting. It is my understanding if there is a heavy spot on the balance wheel that the fastest positions and slowest positions would flip when the watch is run with low amplitude vs high amplitude. My question is, if the balance itself is perfectly poised and that if the fault lies with the hairspring only, would it be reasonable to expect that no such flip would occur?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not quite sure I understand what you are saying.

Are you talking about the fast and slow adjustment marks on the balance bridge?

If the balance is not poised positional accuracy will be all over the place as the heavy spot will always want to go down so depending on how the watch is being held, Crown up , Crown down etc will impact the accuracy.

If  you hairspring is not correct, out of round, out of flat, coils stuck together either by magnetism or oil, other than the coils stuck together which will always make teh watch run fast the other issues may make it run fast or slow too and could change due to how the watch is held.

For example if the hairspring is not flat it may catch on the bridge or center wheel when the watch is held in one position but not another.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You see, from what I understand, the flip occurs because when the heavy spot on the balance is orientated downwards it is impulsed in the ascending supplementary arc and resisted in the descending at low amplitude but at high amplitude the heavy spot travels over the top and this effect is reversed. But if the balance has no appreciable heavy spot and the error is from the hairspring why would this reversal be observed? The center of gravity of the hairspring stay on relatively the same side regardless of amplitude?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



You see, from what I understand, the flip occurs because when the heavy spot on the balance is orientated downwards it is impulsed in the ascending supplementary arc and resisted in the descending at low amplitude but at high amplitude the heavy spot travels over the top and this effect is reversed. But if the balance has no appreciable heavy spot and the error is from the hairspring why would this reversal be observed? The center of gravity of the hairspring stay on relatively the same side regardless of amplitude?


How do you know that what appears to be a poise error is from the hairspring?

High grade watches used to have poised hairspring collets, and generally overcoil hairsprings. Modern watches almost universally have even better collets, with attachment of the spring inducing no stress at either collet or stud, and often some supplemental heat treatment of the terminal curve, which altogether gives performance like an old overcoiled piece.

The hairspring alloy makes a difference (big) in performance as well, a Nivarox 3 will never perform like a 1, and even the 1 grade has better and worse springs.

But a clear poise error is a clear poise error. Often I've spent time on the poising tool to just undo half of it on dynamic. Smaller calibers are always worse than larger, a LeCoultre 101 can be a real bear (factors of scale, hairspring collet is always proportionally bigger on smaller pieces). But all experience and such goes out the window sometimes; had a 104 (about 1mm bigger than 101) that had a vertical delta of 80+ seconds, an hour of nerve crushing work on the poising tool and it was under 30- which is almost unheard of on these. I only believe it because I saw it.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The alloy I'm dealing with is in fact anachron (top grade 7750) so no issues there. I don't know if the error is mainly hairspring, which is why I ask if my hypothesis is a viable way of determining whether or not most of the fault lies with the balance or hairspring. When I remove the upper pivot cap and hole jewels, I observe that the pivot has a noticeable tendency to spring to one side of the setting, towards 6 o clock direction specifically. Incidentally the fastest position is crown right. Might be a relationship there. I know the hairspring is inducing some degree of error, but not sure exactly how much and just want to find ways to get a clearer picture. I want to make sure I got everything sorted out with the hairspring the best I could before I go and attack the balance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back of the watch facing towards me, full wind, starting with the crown down position, each measurement made at 45 degree rotations counter clockwise:

-2 @292

-1 @288

0 @284

0 @299

+2 @297

+3 @301

+4 @288

+2 @ 288

Same thing, but at low wind:

-15 @165

-9 @165

-11 @164

-15 @162

-21 @142

-22 @160

-20 @158

-11 @ 167

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a pretty great rate, but there is a little error, more evident as would be expected at low amplitude. Just try out moving the spring in the direction to get it centered and see what the effect is. If it were me I would leave it, I would bet you are at a similar delta and overall rate as your full wind at 24h. Plus it's an auto so it spends most of it's life far from the 24h mark. But it looks like a very slight poise issue, and would require just a tiny removal of material.

One problem with chasing "perfection" is every time you manipulate the balance, there's a risk of introducing a new error, from slightly tweeking the hairspring to a microscopic piece of dirt getting in a pivot, or on the roller jewel, or the lower pivot brushing the fork slot (oil on the slot), to a half a dozen other things. 7750 is pretty robust and tolerant, it's worse as you get smaller (0.06mm pivots can drive you to drink).

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the whole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
×
×
  • Create New...