Deviations on timegrapher measurements

[jdm]

2 hours ago, CaptCalvin said:

@jdm What he means is that he needed to fully open the regulating index for the slot at the bottom to line up with the hairspring in order for the hairspring to come free of the regulator index.

Well, as mentioned above that is not needed. What is moved is the entire regulator arm, but not the index.
From the Technical Guide:

[jdm]

I wanted to add that removing and (even more) installing this type of hairsprings is a delicate task.

So the OP as a beginner did well in doing that without damage, no matter the exact steps he followed. 

[CaptCalvin]

4 hours ago, jdm said:

Well, as mentioned above that is not needed. What is moved is the entire regulator arm, but not the index.
From the Technical Guide:

I would say it's pretty needed, especially on the reinstall. Think about how difficult it would be to try to get the endcurve back through the slot if it was turned. The manual shows it fully opened in all steps. I think it just neglected to specify. Kudos to OP for taking this initiative.

Edited April 26, 2019 by CaptCalvin

[Deggsie]

That is quite a new concept, "practice on fine pieces because the cheap one may get you disappointed"? 

The focus in learning should be about developing dexterity, using the correct techniques and fully understand how parts typically function and behave when manipulated. Not going for quick satisfying results on valuable pieces.

So, my vote goes to getting cheap old Swiss, or Seiko, or new Chinese, depending on student's preferences. 

To this effect the OP going to his own nice watches right away has been a risk taking, but so far he managed to do good. I'd recommend anyway he gets a neglected Seiko 5 to further practice, simply because skill developing is based on repetition, and repeated manipulation is detrimental to a mov.t.

Ok. Such is democracy we each have our thoughts opinions and are entitled to voice them.

 

 

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[Deggsie]

"Don’t waste time trying to learn on cheap movements", I heard you, but I'm very new to this watchmaking hobby, even I can do very very tiny electronic SMD hand soldering, it doesn't mean I want to risk myself or a friend expensive timepiece, still need to train my dexterity ,new techniques and confidence
 
Darak

Hello Darak, apologies for taking a while to respond to you, I have been away working. I was very lucky to have met a professional Horologist who lives near to me and spares time for me to learn from him. Prior to meeting this gentleman I spent 4 years as a self taught diy Horologist tinkering with cheap or dysfunctional movements I bought off eBay, usually £1 to £3 a pop. Yes, they taught me manual dexterity and manipulation of parts, I even managed to reform a few damaged hairsprings, to a degree. The best advice I was given by the professional Horologist , (and hence I passed it onto you) was to learn on movements of quality, ones which are runners.

JDMs response is I hope purely flippant. Of course most would not interpret my advice as “all newbies should start by only tearing down fine omega or Rolex time pieces”.

It is possible to find working, albeit uncased ETA or AS movements for example on eBay for as little as £5 to £10. The movement should be running beforehand. Stripping, cleaning, rebuilding and lubricating a non running watch yields no lessons learned or sense of achievement if the movement still turns out to be a non runner. I have learned horology is a journey and not a destination, and for me it was important to gain confidence through success.

Kind regards
Deggsie


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[Darak]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Deggsie said:

Hello Darak, apologies for taking a while to respond to you, I have been away working. I was very lucky to have met a professional Horologist who lives near to me and spares time for me to learn from him. Prior to meeting this gentleman I spent 4 years as a self taught diy Horologist tinkering with cheap or dysfunctional movements I bought off eBay, usually £1 to £3 a pop. Yes, they taught me manual dexterity and manipulation of parts, I even managed to reform a few damaged hairsprings, to a degree. The best advice I was given by the professional Horologist , (and hence I passed it onto you) was to learn on movements of quality, ones which are runners.

JDMs response is I hope purely flippant. Of course most would not interpret my advice as “all newbies should start by only tearing down fine omega or Rolex time pieces”.

It is possible to find working, albeit uncased ETA or AS movements for example on eBay for as little as £5 to £10. The movement should be running beforehand. Stripping, cleaning, rebuilding and lubricating a non running watch yields no lessons learned or sense of achievement if the movement still turns out to be a non runner. I have learned horology is a journey and not a destination, and for me it was important to gain confidence through success.

Kind regards
Deggsie


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Hi Deggsie,

 

Thanks for your kind reply, I'm very jealous that you have someone can learn from, I'm learning by watching YouTube videos or community like here,  but still, I think I learn a lot good tips so far.

 

Darak

[Deggsie]

Don’t be jealous. My trainer keeps saying how it is important to make mistakes... that’s how you learn. But I wasn’t learning by practicing on broken cheap movements. [emoji53] Also he keeps saying don’t rush to be successful. Horology takes a lifetime to learn.


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[jdm]

On 4/18/2019 at 6:46 AM, Darak said:

And yes, I always measure in six positions, and every time I change positions, I'll take it off and move the watch around, but this makes me think, some watchmaker uses auto timegrapher, means the timegrapher will move between positions by itself, does this means take the watch off and move it around is not necessary? 

Is not necessary, just wait 30 seconds between positions.

 

On 4/29/2019 at 11:59 PM, Deggsie said:

It is possible to find working, albeit uncased ETA or AS movements for example on eBay for as little as £5 to £10. The movement should be running beforehand.

Actually I don't think that's so easy to find these cheap as you say. If you want to show things to other member feel free to post links, that is absolutely allowed by forum rules as long isn't your sale. 

Incidentally the OP here, like many others, like Seiko. From what Darak posted so far I'd say that he's finding his way pretty good.