Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is this a good way to clean a Quartz movement?

Cleaning the a watch movement

Watches accumulate over time dust and small metal debris inside the movement. All watches have a friction fit to allow you to change the time while the movement is running. If there is oil on that friction fit then the movement will not be able to drive the watch hands any more properly. The friction fit will slip and the time will be off. A quartz watch that is off by several minutes per week has usually mechanical problems, not eclectic problems. 

Quartz movements are more simple in their mechanical design. They have very few cog wheels and it's easy to get to them. This open design does often allow you to wash the movement in lighter fluid without taking it apart. 
 

lighter-fluid-to-clean-watch-movement_th.jpg 
Lighter fluid to clean watch movments.



To clean a quartz watch you just take the movement out of the case, dip it in a small bowl with lighter fluid and move it a bit left and right to allow for the flow of lighter fluid through the movement. This will wash old oil, debris and dust out of the movement and you will find small particles at the bottom of the bowl.

I have installed a new battery just a few month ago and now the watch needs again a new one

If you are sure that the battery is was of good quality then this is probably a sign of oil in the movement getting old and sticky. The friction in the movement has increased. 

An easy way to fix this is to first apply a bit of very thin Moebius quartz oil. After that you wait a few days (watch running) until the oil got into all the pivot holes where it dissolved the old and sticky oil. Finally you wash the excess oil away with lighter fluid. Just wash the entire movement in lighter fluid. Traces of oil will remain in the movement and that is enough. You don't need to take the movement apart for this procedure.

    

Posted

I would say no.

Dipping the movement complete is a bad idea.

Quartz watches have many plastic parts in them that may react badly to lighter fluid, also it will not clean the pivots correctly.

I personally think that pretty much everthying above is bad advise.

Quartz watches still need to be dismantled to clean and oil correctly.

Maybe if its a $2 watch and its not worth the time to service it correctly and you just hope to get a few more months out of it the above might be worth trying, but other than that I advise against using teh above cleaning instructions.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Tmuir, I heard the fluid may actually hurt the circuitry, in some cases the movement will run  but drains the battery within a few months. What is your thought on that.

The very few quartz movements I have overhauled, it is been complete tear down, brushed parts in friendly fluids and oiled as if mechanical. The result have offcourse been to my satisfaction. But wouldn,t that defeat the idea of quartz accuracy and no repair pain? Or is no repair my overexpectation.

Joe

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Tmuir, I heard the fluid may actually hurt the circuitry, in some cases the movement will run  but drains the battery within a few months. What is your thought on that.

The very few quartz movements I have overhauled, it is been complete tear down, brushed parts in friendly fluids and oiled as if mechanical. The result have offcourse been to my satisfaction. But wouldn,t that defeat the idea of quartz accuracy and no repair pain? Or is no repair my overexpectation.

Joe

I suspect a tongue-in-cheek thought when you posted about the no repair expectations for a quartz watch. Many quartz movements were designed to be serviced. One of my quartz watches sports a 13 jewel movement. Unfortunately, economics gets in the way. A complete, new, 13 jewel Ronda 5030.d movement, Swiss made, can be had for less than $50 USD. A Swiss Parts version, 6 jewel, can be purchased for less than half that amount. I don't personally know any professional watchmakers who will disassemble, clean, oil and reassemble a movement for $50, much less $25. 

You're going to see more serviceable quartz movements if the Seiko produced meca-quartz type catches the public's attention. It is a hybrid chronograph at this time. The 'engine' that provides the motive power is quartz but the mechanics that power the chrono functions are all mechanical. You gain the satisfying feel and operation of a mechanical chronograph while powering it with a stable, long lasting quartz power source. Win/win.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not predicting the demise of the mechanical watch movement at all. Merely another way to produce similar results. 

Edited by TexasDon
Posted (edited)

I agree it could damage the circuitry, it could also shift oil and dirt onto the tracks causing shorts, also if there is any metal dust within the movement cleaning it together could shift it towards the rotor where it will stick causing other issues.

Quartz watches still eventually need servicing, its just a lot of modern quartz movements are made not to be serviced.

My daily wear watch is a Seiko 7546-8360 quartz watch from 1978. It was bought non functioning but it just needed a strip down clean and oil and obviously a new battery. I'm pretty confident that's the first service the watch had and it probably wont get another one for 10 or 20 years.

As TexasDon states if you want the movement to continue to work it still needs to be correctly serviced, but the cost to service compared to replace means it usually doesn't happen unless its a high end movement.

Edited by Tmuir
Posted
7 hours ago, Tmuir said:

I would say no.

Dipping the movement complete is a bad idea.

Quartz watches have many plastic parts in them that may react badly to lighter fluid, also it will not clean the pivots correctly.

I personally think that pretty much everthying above is bad advise.

Quartz watches still need to be dismantled to clean and oil correctly.

Maybe if its a $2 watch and its not worth the time to service it correctly and you just hope to get a few more months out of it the above might be worth trying, but other than that I advise against using teh above cleaning instructions.

    a good cleaner is alcohol!  find it at rhe chemists shop.  vin

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I am inclined to think alchohol would pose the least or no risk, especially if a quick dip,  evaporates real quick. 

TexasDon, no tongue in cheek, seriously, I got a watch that started draining battery following such a dip, I was being told the fluid damaged the circuit, some say a short circuit somewhere, fifteen years on I still don,t know the real cause. So I asked.

I still got the watch, kappa brand, swiss EB, metal gears and big jewels looks pretty too. Can I interest you in a trade off, goat for horse .:lol: 

Regards 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm not sure if lighter fluid will affect the circuit board, but I suspect not, however it may dissolve some plastics, and soften others, so I would be a little cautious when using it on quartz movements.

Isopropyl alcohol (aka isopropanol)  might be safer, but then again, it might not be as effective at dissolving the build up of oily grime.  

Back in the day, we used to use 1,1,1-trichloroehane to clean circuit boards, and as a degreaser, but that is an ozone destroying solvent banned in 1996, so unless you have some lying about, then you will need to use something which is most likely less effective. 

I have used isopropanol extensively over the years to clean plastic parts, and remove soldering flux residue and other grime, and it is reasonable effective in most cases. I am not aware of it damaging plastics, but I guess the proof might be to sit a working quartz movement in some for a week, then remove it and see if it still works. I suspect it will be fine.

 



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As others have pointed out we discussed this subject in great lengths multiple times on multiple discussion groups. Then we have a subject that has too many variables and generalizations that make all the different things seem like one common removing staffs when it's not. There are variety of balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking or pushing a staff out. Rolex has one that the only way the staff is coming out is by pushing it out enough pressure is applied the river breaks with a very satisfying pop. This is because they hairspring cannot be removed until the staff is pushed out through. Then of course Rolex has a nice set of tools just for this purpose. A variety watch companies like Elgin made a balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking the staff have. For instance that principle is applied with jeweling tool you mention and here's the complete article down below that explains the procedure. Then of course there are variety watch companies Elgin And Hamilton that specifically designed balance staffs designed to be knocked out because the riveting shoulder is supposed to break. That of course would be the original staffs and probably the aftermarket do not have such features.   One of the problems with all of these tools would be the balance staff itself and of course whatever the balance wheel is made of. Personally I like the rule of if you're knocking the staff out and you gently tap with the hammer and it doesn't just pop out then you do not drive it out you do have to use a lathe. Because for variety of reasons staffs that are perhaps over riveted not quite the right size soft balance arms etc. driving a staff out that doesn't really want to come out it's not your best interest to do that.   A variety of American companies used friction fit staffs. For instance here's an example of Waltham Here's something interesting from Hamilton a specific type of 992 with a specific type of hairspring. Normally the Hamilton friction staff's do not have a groove to indicate such. Such as the Hamilton 992B or the Hamilton deck watch but they only have one staff which is friction. This particular staff has been marked because if you read carefully I suspect originally it might not have had a friction staff this was basically an upgrade. I know I've seen in the staffing assortments the blued hubs as a replacement components.    Then I'm attaching a PDF of Hamilton's thoughts on replacing balance staffs. Notice either the hub where the river can be cut away they don't have a preference it's whatever you like. Plus they mention the staff that is designed to break away. Although I have a suspicion you'll probably never see one of those as it would have to be an original staff and I suspect none of the after markets would have that feature. Hamilton technical data number 129 replacement of broken balance staffs.pdf
    • Thanks for shedding light on the exact problem — you're right, it's the centre tube, not the cannon pinion. That was the issue, and after tightening the centre tube, everything now sits correctly. The train bridge can be fully tightened and all the wheels run freely. I haven’t tested the pallet fork yet as I haven’t refitted it, but I’ll be doing that shortly to confirm if the issue is entirely resolved. @Neverenoughwatches Sorry for misusing the term earlier.
    • If the existing spring is 0.06 then it's been replaced at some time in the past and would potentially be too weak for this movement.
    • A quick addition: Given when I measured the springs I got 1.5 x 0.06 I thought I'd figure out how long they are. I was able to do this from a photograph taken immediately above. The program Inkscape has a nice extension that allows measuring the length of a beizer curve, so I drew one along the length of the spring. It's 220mm. And 1.5 x 0.06x 220 x 7.0 does appear in the catalogue. It would also explain the lower amplitude I'm seeing.  Doesn't immediately solve anything, but the information is nice. 
    • That's because it's not a cannon pinion and just a centre tube. If this was the fault I still wouldn't have expected it to run without the balance. Edit @TimepieceTinkerer To clarify. Did you test the train ran smoothly with everything tightened down before fitted the fork and balance?  
×
×
  • Create New...