Jump to content

Balance wheel will not swing without assistance


Deggsie

Recommended Posts

Hello all. I have recently cleaned and serviced an AS2390 movement, which initially after lubricating/ reassembling would begin to tick with just a turn or so of the winding stem. However, a week on and the movement has developed a problem. If the movement is not wound daily and mainspring is allowed to completely de-power, then during winding the watch will not begin tick without a slight ‘swing’ to assist it. In fact it is possible to wind the mainspring to maximum and the watch will only start to tick if a slight swing is applied. Thereafter the watch keeps good time and does not ever seem to stop until the spring completely de-powers again.
 
I am curious as to what is causing this, since initially the watch would start ticking with one or so winds of the crown. Your thoughts and help would be much appreciated please.
 
Kind regards
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check if impulse jewel is in beat.

Release barrel power at the ratchet click, then check the ballance, it should come to stop/ rest where impulse is inside the fork horns. 

How to test , the impulse is in beat if the slight clock/anticlock move of ballance wheel causes the fork move.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As was mentioned above, it sounds like the watch slipped out of beat. Perhaps this is because the hairspring collet fits too loosely on the staff?  It's always nice to have a watch in beat so that it takes off when you wind it, without having to give it a twist. Good luck.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your invaluable input. I will check the approximate beat this evening by putting the balance assembly onto a spare main plate and checking to see that balance comes to rest with the jewel at mid span between the banking pins. I know this will be mk1 calibrated eyeball only, but should give me a reasonable indication as to how well in beat the watch is or isn’t.

One other factor has crossed my mind.. I think this may have started after I applied lubrication to the pallet stones. Might I have overlubed and caused too much viscous drag for self startup? I used moebius 8000 and none on the pallet pivot

Kind regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Deggsie said:

Thank you all for your invaluable input. I will check the approximate beat this evening by putting the balance assembly onto a spare main plate and checking to see that balance comes to rest with the jewel at mid span between the banking pins. I know this will be mk1 calibrated eyeball only, but should give me a reasonable indication as to how well in beat the watch is or isn’t.

One other factor has crossed my mind.. I think this may have started after I applied lubrication to the pallet stones. Might I have overlubed and caused too much viscous drag for self startup? I used moebius 8000 and none on the pallet pivot

Kind regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatal

Very modest of you, you service Rolex so I think you know all this, some fresh oil have surely got on escapewheel teeth from overlubed pallets, so if you just rinse the fork in your lighter fluid, some of that fresh oil deposited on the wheel will get back on pallets as the fork gets reinstalled. 

Surely you know the impulse jewel is in the right position to receive energy when in beat, that dosn,t ,however,  mean energy made available there to be received is neccessarily at max, the fork will get energized at pallet end  by escapewheel, so if pallets get dispositioned during cleaning, trouble, real trouble, I am very experienced with loosing pallets as I tried to adjust them.:lol:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very modest of you, you service Rolex so I think you know all this, some fresh oil have surely got on escapewheel teeth from overlubed pallets, so if you just rinse the fork in your lighter fluid, some of that fresh oil deposited on the wheel will get back on pallets as the fork gets reinstalled. 
Surely you know the impulse jewel is in the right position to receive energy when in beat, that dosn,t ,however,  mean energy made available there to be received is neccessarily at max, the fork will get energized at pallet end  by escapewheel, so if pallets get dispositioned during cleaning, trouble, real trouble, I am very experienced with loosing pallets as I tried to adjust them.:lol:
 

Hello Nucejoe. Sorry you mistake me for an expert Horologist as I do not service Rolex (perhaps in the future if I keep practicing). I appreciate your contribution though [emoji846]

What I will add is that I have now taken out the pallet fork and escape wheel, cleaned in naphtha, rinsed in ipa and reassembled. The balance now energises after a few turns on the crown. So, luckily I think the pallet stones are still correctly located.

Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Deggsie said:


Hello Nucejoe. Sorry you mistake me for an expert Horologist as I do not service Rolex (perhaps in the future if I keep practicing). I appreciate your contribution though emoji846.png

What I will add is that I have now taken out the pallet fork and escape wheel, cleaned in naphtha, rinsed in ipa and reassembled. The balance now energises after a few turns on the crown. So, luckily I think the pallet stones are still correctly located.

Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, Glad to hear this,  excessive lube was your own diagosis too,  the solutions you used are new names to me, I search online to read about them. Thanks for sharring.

Oh my friend here :geek:  celebrates success.  Best wishes joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
    • When building a new Watch I have tended to use a file to remove the remnants of dial feet that are not needed as many dials come with four feet to accomodate different movements, but this can be a bit messy so now I use this with a great deal more precision as you can use an appropriate bit for the job and keep it very localised.      
×
×
  • Create New...