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I used to use the technique described above by Nucejoe. It was also the technique taught to me by my mentor. But in recent years, I switched to using a technique which I learnt from YouTube. Basically, you put all the wheels into the holes of the bottom plate, stand them as upright as possible, then hover the upper plate over the wheels, trying to align the holes to the pivot and drop it on. There is a chance that you'll get a "hole-in-one" and all the pivots would go home into their respective holes. Failing which, you use the back end of your tweezer and tap lightly on the movement holder while observing the upper plate. The tapping will jar the wheels and when they are all aligned you'll be able to see the upper plate drop home. Sound ridiculously ludicrous, right? But I've been using this technique for the past 2 years, with only an occasional stubborn movement which will require the poke and pray method. And for Accutron movements, mastering this technique is essential to avoid damaging the delicate index wheel. Oh yes! May I add that with this method, I can get most top plates on in under 30 seconds.

Looks like you've got your hands full. But Accutrons are really interesting. They are the only watches with true burnt coils, unlike quartz watches. Quartz coils normally break when someone slips with a screwdriver and scratch the surface. Accutrons have open coils with absolutely no visible physical damage. If one can repair the burnt coils, Accutron owners will beat a path to his front door.

Why not? I'm sure you'll love them. I'm stuck on one Accutron 214 at the moment. It keeps good time in all positions, except "12 o'clock high" position.

I bought a Accutron 600 tester. Now I need to learn how to use it.

I am in the process of building a custom tester based on the Accutron 600 test set. I choose the 600 because I have a pristine 700 and dont mind hacking the 600. I like the test set because of the huge 25ua meter! I am designing a variable battery source using a miniature digital volt meter mounted on a 3D printed module that plugs into the hole in the 600 test set (where the leads are stored). This is not a "does everything" tester either. It will let me test for low and high battery voltages, and also test pulse current. The picture shows the current state of the module--basically got the 3D print done. The electronics will be trivial.

No need to scan the manual somebody else did it for us. I've attached the service manual a specification sheet and the bonus parts list. The reason I use the word bonus is that the parts list came with the boxes of the material. Siege to the various watches at least the tuning fork watches would have a box with a lot of envelopes and due to have these cards that showed you the parts. So here is where someone scanned in all the cards and made a nice PDF for us. I'm probably being nitpicky here but when I think multimeter I'm thinking analogue and if somebody use the word digital multimeter then the fluke would qualify. Accutron 218 --Manual.pdf Accutron Parts 214 218.pdf Accutron_Specifications.pdf

Regarding meters...it is not easy to find a 25ua analog meter. That is why I recently bought two accutron test sets because they use a rather large 25ua FS meter. I am planning on building a test platform using one of them. I know nothing about servicing accutron and don't plan to head that way...just hijacking this thread to add my thoughts on meters

https://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/VINTAGE-ACCUTRON-MODEL-700-WRIST-WATCH-REPAIR-TEST-TOOL-SERVICE-KIT-/384557962006?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 If you place a battery in the test clip, it will provide power at the test leads to power up the watch under test. The meter gives a reading of 25 microamps FSD. I guess you could use an analog multimeter on the 50 microamp range but then the needle would hardly move.

Go download a copy of the manual. You can find it on the internet. Also, read up on the theory of how a tuning fork watch works and how to index the watch correctly. There are some videos on YouTube on servicing tuning fork watches too. I remember I read everything I could find on the internet on the subject and watched every video on servicing tuning fork watches too. Then I put in on the back burner and let it stew for a few months. A tuning fork watch is totally different from mechanical and quartz watches, although background experience on working on other components like keyless works, motion works and calendar works would be a great help. A microscope of at least 20X magnification is essential. If you have an Accutron model 700 test meter, you won't need a variable power supply. But a normal multimeter isn't going to work. As for the watch that is humming, if the hands are not moving, it's better to remove the battery before the index wheel gets damaged. I'm no expert on Accutrons, but I'm here to help if you need it. Good luck.

Be very careful with the index and pawl fingers. And don't hold the index wheel anywhere except by the arbor. Do you have an Accutron test meter?

I have a 2180 that hums and a 2181 that does not. I'm about to start these two projects. Besides lots of photos any advice?

I was asked to look at an Accutron 214 that could hum but doesn't move. I removed the safety bridge and immediately noticed that the index jewel was missing. I searched the movement and also the watch case but couldn't find the missing jewel. Has anyone tried replacing a missing index jewel before? What bonding agent would be good for bonding to a ruby surface. Or is replacing the entire tuning fork the best way to go. TIA

I work on no end of both. And I keep rediscovering that the more one knows about something, the more one can appreciate it. I specialize in antiques, and love to work on them. There are many old mechanicals which can be made very accurate, and I respect that. But as others have mentioned, for me it is also about the artistry. I adore the ways that the watchmakers of the Victorian and Edwardian eras used to decorate the movements. All the brushing on the nickel surface, the damaskeening, the engine turning, the fancy blackletter script of the maker's name, and so on. And just the overall pride in craftsmanship that is so evident throughout many of them. But I've also worked on really nice quartz movements. The more I learn about the Accutron tuning fork regulated watches, the more I appreciate that level of precision. And the Seiko kinetics are very impressive too, a sort of hybrid automatic-quartz with the oscillator charging the battery/capacitor. I confess, I've learned to like working on those too. I don't, however, get much thrill working on a run-of-the-mill, standard, battery-operated SMQ. But I respect what they can do. It's hard not to. So yes, for me, I like both. But certainly in different ways. Truthfully, the passion really comes out when I'm working on an old pocket watch.

There are many pulse testers available online. Get one that can check battery voltage, do line release and test for a motor pulse. Some of the newer ones can even test the timing accuracy. To test the coil, all you need is a multimeter set to resistance testing mode. But to test the current consumption of the circuit, I'm afraid there is no easy way. I use a Bulova Accutron test meter which was designed to test tuning fork watches but can be used to give a rough idea of the consumption current. A proper quartz watch testing machine, like those made by Witschi, is not something that a hobbyist would buy. My mentor explained to me why a professional watchmaker might not want to buy a Witschi quartz tester. If you test a watch that your customer brings in and pronounce it defective and then the customer brings it to another watchmaker who just replaces the battery and charges for it, the customer would think you are incompetent. Then when the battery fails after 6 months, he would just replace the battery again and tell you if it dies in six months again, you'll need to service the watch or buy a new one.

Hi I have a Bulova accutron with swiss eta 252.262 movement. The watch is having an issue with the date change function, when I rotate the crown for date change it instead moves the hour hand and not the date wheel. I can continue moving the hour hand twice around and date does changes . The date is changing every 24 hrs . Any advise how to fix this issue ?

Ha! Been wondering what this was for...Now I know. Been sitting in the drawer beckoning the inquisitive mind. After reviewing the Accutron Test setup documents...voila...

I have an Accutron 700 meter. What puck are you referring to?

I just acquired this tester and want to use it as a general tool working on quartz watches. 1) Does anyone have the schematic of the tester because I may want to mod it? 2) Can anyone tell me what is in that accessory puck that I am pointing to? @JohnR725must surely have the answer to both of these questions!!

I renamed the file when I went searching for it all I had was a PDF labeled 221. then it doesn't even start off like one of their normal manuals somebody gives us a bonus page and conveniently skips over the title page. Accutron 221.pdf

Worth just searching for Bulova 221. The zero on the end for 2210 indicates no complications but most references are just to 221. With that you'll find articles like... http://mybulova.com/sites/default/files/file/1974_Power_Cell_Replacement_Guide.pdf https://reference.grail-watch.com/movement/accutron-221 .. which look like they could be handy. Also Google watchguy bulova 221 which should point you to a Technical Letters reference of interest.

I found this on the net. Accutron 2210 uses Maxell 329 SR731SW. I also found many asking for the service manual which many can't find. I haven't found any leads to one, sorry.

From a recent junk watch lot from eBay, I found a ladies Accutron watch. I was expecting a ETA quartz movement inside but to my surprise and delight, it's an actual tuning fork watch. But my delight quick turned to disappointment when I discovered that someone jammed in a wrong size battery in. The battery is so huge that it has deformed the forks to the maximum limit. I tried prying it out but it's really stuck fast. Does anyone have the service manual for a ladies Bulova 2210 movement? I have to figure out a way to get the battery out without causing further damage. Thanks in advance.

https://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/BULOVA-Accutron-Automatic-Watch-Swiss-Made-Sapphire-Crystal-100m-All-Stainless-/234164475111?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0 This is what I mean. Bulova did use the name Accutron for watches that were not using tuning fork technology. I just got a 10 watch lot labelled as Accutrons. All of them were quartz.

This is my latest acquisition. All cleaned up and lubricated. It still runs about a minute fast per day. I'm not sure if it's a phasing problem or the oscillating frequency is off. I'll probably test it with my frequency meter to find out. Is there any timing machine that can be used to regulae an Accutron other than a Vibrograf? I don't think I'd want to repair/ restore a Vibrograf and go through the hassle of using paper tracings.

I think it might help to have a definition of what the word means which is not tuning fork watch but this ACCUTRON stands for “ACCUracy through ElecTRONic". Or basically it's a nifty word that sells watches whether it has a tuning fork or not. then for phasing are using the instructions in the book or the instructions at the website below? the reason I point this out the website below tells how to phase the watch for silver cells. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/accphs.htm