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  1. Nah--Too much like a rip-off of a Sub for my liking, my wrist would miss the Hum it usually gets from an Accutron or ESA Omega, the Folex I use when there's a risk of possible damage--Like at work! Recycling centres can get a bit hairy for a timid tuning-fork!
  2. Ive got a bit of a mad Accutron project in my head at the mo... I would like to get a generic unsigned dial of the correct diameter and fit to a 2180. The problem is the feet. They are Never where you want them! Is it possible--or are such items available, that look a little like tiny drawing-pins that could be fixed to a dial by adhesive after removing the dials original feet?
  3. Today, it's a Bulova Accutron. I got this a few weeks ago, and it runs like new......well, it's about -2 seconds a day. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
  4. the title says it all. i have been working on a few recent purchases and i'm not having too much success - except when it comes to screwing up. i began working on my seiko EL-330 last night. i wanted to look at the movement and take a closer inspection of the keyless works. it looks like some water had gotten in in the distant past. i removed all of the works, taking pictures as i went along. well, i lost a screw somewhere in the carpeting. on top of that, there is a part of the keyless works that has a very tiny wire riveted to it. yup, broke the wire. now i need a screw and that part for the keyless. not an easy find. next up - an elgin that i got this week. a monster of a watch with no complications. it is an auto with an elgin 996 movement (AS 1920). well, it was grinding when i would wind it so i wanted to check it out. i removed the rotor and the winding bridge. it took forever to reinstall that bridge. after i reinstalled it, i spun the rotor and could see that the barrel was winding. all buttoned up and now it won't manually wind. the crown won't even turn. it will auto wind, but no manual wind. next up - my latest bulova accutron. a beauty. i took the movement out to take some pictures of it to post up on "my watch collection". buttoned it all up, pulled the crown to set it - the crown came right out. i can't tighten the screw to lock it in. the watch runs beautifully, but i can't set it. i think i'm gonna back slowly away from the desk so no other watches get hurt. believe me, i can do some damage.
  5. Hi Bill, I was looking around yesterday and saw your post here. It seems to me that you have the desire to learn the watch repair techniques but have hit a few road blocks. I went back and found your post about the Hamilton that is giving you the winding stem issue. From what I saw I must say that if that was your first attempt well done! You took it apart and got it back together and it still runs. That is no small feat. From what I understand the only issue is the stem will wind the watch but when you try to pull it out to put it in setting position the stem comes out. This could be from a problem totally unrelated to anything you have done. The tip on the setting lever that holds the stem in place could be worn out. You may not want to think about that watch anymore but to me they are puzzles that beg me to figure them out. If you have time ask yourself a question or two. Did the stem work before you took the watch apart? If the answer is no then you did nothing wrong and you have a watch with some worn out parts. Could be the setting lever, (you might be able to check this by removing the stem and looking through the hole it came from to see if you can see the tip of the setting lever and estimate if there is enough there to hold in the stem. Look at the stem to insure the groove the tip fits in is in good shape) Could be the plate itself is worn allowing the stem to wobble around so that it drops under the tip of the set lever and pulls out. ( could be on end next to crown or end next to the center of the movement where the crown fits in after going through the sliding pinion. In any of these cases you did everything right and just have a watch with worn parts. Determining what is wrong with a watch that doesn't work is different that disassembling, cleaning and reassembling a working watch, that's why everyone says to start your first watch project on a watch that is working. Now if you answered yes to the question then something has happened. The end of the stem that fits into the center of the movement may have snapped off. When you cleaned the movement you may have cleaned out some debris that was actually keeping the stem in position. Or it may be something as simple as the stem may not be all the way in. Watching some videos I see where some stems have just been pushed it and the set lever spring allows the set lever to jump up and allows the stem to pop into place. On this sort of watch that won't happen. Here you have to partially unscrew the set lever spring and sometimes push down on the set lever screw while inserting the stem. Didn't mean to tell you what you already may know but I don't have any idea what you do know. Now I still have to say that if you took that movement apart and got it back together so that it runs on your first try then you did well. Sometimes stems can be a bear. I was putting new hands on an Accutron 218 the other day and I was afraid I was going to have to disassemble the watch just to get the stem back in. For some reason I could get the stem in but then the watch would only set the time and I could not push it in to home position. I finally got it to seat properly but I was a little worried for a minute or two. I see that you are fairly close to me geographically speaking so if you should want you could send me the movement and I could take a look. All it would cost is postage. Or if you want I could try to talk you through the process of finding out what the issue may be.
  6. Husband does Accutron repairs and needs a tool: two long wires, one yellow and one blue attached to a small disc that has a plus and minus on the disc. Can anyone help?
  7. My take on this, being an area of personal opinions: Moebius 8200 is for mainspring barrels and has been a long-time standard for manual wind watches. When working with automatic watches you may get better results using Moebius 9020 or Moebius 9141. Moebius 8200 can also be used on stems and winding gears of older manual wind watches. Moebius 8300 is for mainspring barrels and has been a long-time standard for clocks of all sizes. Moebius 8300 is slightly thicker than Moebius 8200 and is used in mainspring barrels of watches when 8200 is deemed too thin. Moebius 8300 can also be used on stems and winding gears of mechanical movements from all sizes from small 5 ligne watch movements to large tower clocks. Moebius 8300 can also be used on winding gears of quartz watches. Moebius 8301 is is a solid grease particularly for winding mechanisms and springs & slip springs. This grease has a wide range of applications. Same as 8300 but with graphite. Also: Moebius 8217 (Glissalube 20) is an anti-sliding grease for the walls of the barrels of automatic watches. Moebius 8201 with Molybdenumdisulphide: Recommended for the Bolova Accutron watch movements, Moebius 8201 is the same as Moebius 8200, however 8201 has some Molybdenumdisulphide added to it. Moebius 8212; for aluminum barrels; strong braking. Moebius 8213; for brass barrels; strong braking. So, the choice is very wide...8200 will do it all if you are not picky! A different way of applying it is normally used -- thicker oil is rubbed, lighter oil is deposited -- in general...nothing is written on stone. Cheers, Bob
  8. Thank You,... I had it on my watch list for a while . Interesting lugs and rotor with 3 Accutron tuning forks .
  9. Very cool, I don't wonder why Bulova wanted to market the Accutron 'brand' with and eta auto, especially a limited edition, nice move Bulova!
  10. this is a great thread. and my methods are similar to most of you guys - especially will's. i never buy with the intention of resale. the only watches that have left my possession have been given away. i'd love to sell to make money, but i'm just not good at it. i rarely buy plated or gold filled. stainless all of the way. however, seeing will's explanation of gold filled watches, i would reconsider them. if i buy a plated watch, it's with the intention of placing the movement into a SS case. automatics and handwinders are neck and neck with me. quartz is almost entirely out of the question - i don't go looking with the intention of buying quartz. although, i do own a few. small watches - i don't buy them because no matter how beautiful they are, i don't like how they look on my wrist and therefore i won't wear them. two of the most beautiful watches i own are bulovas - but they're too small. i've not had them on my wrist. it's interesting to see what the rest of you view as being valuable watches. lately, i'm drawn to bulova, mido, roamer (and i will keep in mind will's tip on pre 70's roamers). these are the mid level swiss watches that are often overlooked. another thing that i'm drawn to is unusually shaped cases. mido makes a sweet oval shaped case, bulova is way out there with some of their stuff - especially asymmetricals. to me, these could hold the most value because you almost never see them on someone's wrist - and they attract the most attention. it's always the round watches that get wrist time. as much as i love seiko watches, i am strongly attracted to swiss movements. therefore the bulova, mido and roamer attraction - and i count accutron in there with the bulovas. i see an omega in my future. just a simple 60's seamaster with date and i'm good. i think you would do well with bulova, roamer, waltham, hamilton, longines and the like. they are the steady eddie of the watch world. just keep away from the midos - i want all of them.
  11. It was a busy weekend , but I managed to give the Seikomatic a Spa treatment . I also installed a watch-strap I had that was too tight so I put a spring-loaded extension link on it . When I took off the case back it had 3 service markings in the inside that were ink stamps . I tried to preserve them but the acetone got to them , probably from my fingers , and they washed off...[darn ]. In saying that I am saying that I haven't done my own service yet , but the movement is running great and keeping good time . I serviced and cleaned another Seiko 5 Sportmatic with a crosshair black dial and got my first non-running Accutron running by taking out the teeney tiny bent index and pawl fingers , straightening them out [similar to a hairspring , only smaller ] , reinstalling and aligning the fingers , putting a new battery in and pushing in the crown to cancel the hack , and did a couple of back-flips when the thing started running . Oh what a feeling .....oh yeah , I also put a new movement in my Seiko Flightmaster chronograph. But back to the 39 jewel Sportsmatic ,...I took a few pics to share .
  12. They made the Accutron Astronaut GMT in the late sixties, it's a collector http://www.mybulova.com/taxonomy/term/333?page=3
  13. I picked these up this year...It was an Accutron , Omega year.... Blue Ripplss.... Constellation.... Seamaster
  14. Howzit ramrod , Happy Holidays to you and all the members . I really do like and wear my Astronaut . Since I bought it I have installed a new crystal and changed out the watch band to a coffin link bracelet that I had on a vintage Seiko DX . I swapped the deployment clasps also . Believe me when I say that I would not dissuade you or anyone from getting a watch that they had their sights on . ...But as far as the Accutrons go , they ARE a different breed . If you decide to get one I suggest that you read up on them first , get one that is running , and know that they are not as easy to work on as say , a mechanical watch or even a Quartz . If you need to get one serviced there are sites [even advertised on Ebay ] , that do a flat rate service for a little under $200 . I am still learning to service them , starting with the 218 model . I have bought and am still buying watches , movements , and parts , running and not , the tools and meters to service them , the tech manuals , and even a new stereo microscope with a camera port and camera so I can see them on my monitor . So far I have about 10 complete working watches , and 2 or 3 works in progress . I even have a Citizen Hisonic which is the same tuning fork movement . FYI , there is also a Bulova Astronaut Limited Edition with a Swiss ETA automatic movement . That one is on my wish list . It has a crystal presentation back and is signed by the Astronaut Buzz Aldrin . A little pricy , but very nice . I hope I shed a little light about these beautiful Accutron movements....
  15. So I have two links with some additional information about the Accucells irst link it's at the bottom of the page. Second link is from the person who is selling these http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/accbat.htm.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accucell-1-Battery-For-Bulova-Accutron-Power-Cell-/231786028602 Then a slightly different link mercury batteries were just a problem for watches their problem for other things. So you read all the way through this or skim through it they do talk about the diodes it might be possible adapt one of their diodes release give you a clue as to what you're looking for. http://www.butkus.org/chinon/batt-adapt-us.pdf Then the original one of these my understanding was they use the resistor to drop the voltage later ones use a Diode. Then the link below is a picture of the internal construction. http://www.accutron214.com/accutronparts/pages/batteries.htm
  16. Hi ramrod , I believe that the only watches that will hum are the tuning fork watches....Bulova Accutron , Citizen Hisonic , Omega f300 , Longines Ultrasonic and others . Most other electrics use a balance and pallet fork to drive gears , therefore tick . I just checked a Hamilton electric I have and it was ticking away as was my Elgin , Gruen , and Timex electrics . The innards of the electrics are interesting to look at , but if not used for a while it seems that they all need a shake back and forth to kick start them . After going through my electric watch phase I think that I'll stick to Accutrons and Mechanicals , although I like the look of the Seiko chronographs . I just don't care for their finicky circuit blocks [circuit boards ] .
  17. well, i received said watch today - just about an hour ago. i examined it and moved the pinion spring as anil suggested. i don't have a battery to put in it. i've contacted the owner of the link that johnr725 posted for me (http://electric-watches.co.uk ) . i'll wait to hear back from him (paul) to see what battery to install in it. when i pull the crown it pulls, not stiffly but with more effort than an auto or hand winder that i'm used to, but as it's pulled out, the minute hand advances about 7 or 8 minutes each time. it's kind of funny to watch it. 7 or 8 minutes each time. i'm anxious to see if it has a sound when it runs. does anyone have an electric that could tell me? i know this is a bit old school as compared to, say an accutron, but i'm hoping it has a hum to it. it is definitely NOS. this watch band has probably never even been strapped to a wrist. it is arrow straight and has no marks on it. the case is slightly tarnished and could use a polish. but there's not a dent in it or a scratch anywhere. the crystal ha a mark around the 7 o'clock position. it looks like it could polish out. i might just get this running (hopefully) and wear it for a while. then......see ya! lol who knows.
  18. And some you win ! The engine room is fully functional George with a new battery inserted and would you believe the pointers are moving as well. There is a slight blemish to the left of the tuning fork insignia but I have decided to leave it alone for now and just check the accuracy is ok. The Vendor has put a new brown seiko calfskin strap on it which, though not quite right for the SS watch will also do for now. So I have a fully functional Accutron 2210 - total cost £38.00 which will do for me - question is - will I ever sell it on (wife laughs in the background) - OK probably not. Cheers, Vic
  19. Got some coils delivered for an Accutron 218 (£19.61) but unfortunately the packaging was less than robust. The vendor attached the coils in packets to a bit of card and put them in a bubble envelope which has subsequently been stood on or put through a machine. The postage was free and he says he has sent out lots like this without problem - so just my bad luck I suppose. Initial contact seems positive however, for a replacement or partial refund ! - heres hoping. Cheers, Vic
  20. Here are a couple of PDF's for the 221X mechanism. In the past I have posted info for the 214 and 218 only so this is an addition for Bulova tuning fork Watches. The 2210 has a quite funky tuning fork with its curvy tines. The Index wheel has 270 teeth and the watch Hums at 440HZ which some of the musicians amongst us may recognise. Anyway before I drift off on one here is the info:- Accutron 221.pdf Technical Letters 2.pdf Cheers, Vic
  21. Which Accutron models do you have? I have quite a few parts for the 214 and 218 in stock, as I repair them. Also have the 2200 and 2300 parts as well. I am in the Us not sure where you are located. I will be glad to try and assist you just let me know.
  22. Hey Ricardo, Thanks for sharing the pictures of the accutron. I like it very much especially the double crown that I am guessing is to turn the inner bezel to let one know when...well, when oxygen is running out--It is a diving watch after all! I love the Bulova line and all their quirky case shapes and styles throughout the year. i have discovered that they aren't that easy to work on for a number of reasons, and strangely enough there are some similarities to Omega in their workings. Here are some pictures of the movement of my Oceanographer 666. J Thanks for posting! J
  23. I gotta share this .....I got my first non working 218 Accutron running today . Granted it did humm when I put in a battery , but the index and pawl fingers were both out of alignment with the index wheel and the pawl index finger was bent and twisted . I managed to straighten it out a bit and align both index fingers and jewels with the index wheel including the proper hack spacing on the pawl jewel . I did have to use my 10x loupe and my new new 7x - 45x stereo microscope to do this .....but it's running on my wrist . Step 2 is to take it apart now , clean and lube it and put it back together....YIKES !! I have some spare movements I can practice on . Baby steps at this time . The stereo microscope is attached in the link : http://www.amscope.com/stereo-microscopes/7x-45x-trinocular-stereo-microscope-with-80-led-light-1-3mp-usb-digital-camera.html
  24. Have you tried googling accutron repair uk Comes up with a nice list. So Worldwide there still are few people repairing tuning fork watches out there even though parts are getting hard to find if not perhaps impossible depending upon what you're looking for. After all they came out about 50 years ago and the parts probably weren't met to last forever at least the supply. The link below is somebody repairing electric watches strangely enough he doesn't appear to do quartz watches? Then the really outstanding feature this website is his obsession with electric watches and putting all about on the website. So there's a really impressive website a lot of knowledge on electric watches. Although might not be that helpful apparently he's in the process of moving someplace and won't be taking work in until sometime in December. http://electric-watches.co.uk/service-and-repair/
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