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Today's watch....1950's Doxa Cal 1147 in stunning condition. The amplitude is quite low on this one so it will be serviced very soon:) This one only comes out once a year but I am shocked every time I wear it, lol.

Excellent Rogart63! :thumbsu: The Panerai tubes are nearly a perfect match. Even the bolt diameter is as good as it comes; The eBay link you have giving is removed, or at least that's the message I get. But I found them on eBay in Australia, 5 tubes and 5 bolts, including postage to Denmark for $10. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221794890473) The tubes are 22mm long, so with a bit of luck, I could make two bushings out of one Panerai tube. The tubes are slightly bigger, but due to the length, you could fit a tube in a Dremel, or I have a Poxxon with a 3/32 head, and sand them down a bit. Looking at the screw size, the wall thickness of the tube should allow you to do that. The screws in my bracelet measure 1.7mm OD and if they don't fit, I will make them. Perhaps the Panerai screw has the same thread as the Rolex and it becomes just a matter of shortening them and cut a new slot.......... maybe I'm pushing my luck here :huh: Anyhow, I ordered a set and I'm pretty confident that I get them to fit! The Seiko Fat spring-bars could be an option, but the wall-thickness may be very thin. (actually I prefer Citizen bars :D , just kidding !) I was also exploring 14 AWG cable ends, of which I have plenty. They are 2.5mm OD and the Rolex screw fits through them. However, the wall thickness is very thin and the material is unknown, maybe copper, so this would only be a temporary solution. The SS Panerai tubes seem to be, with some additional input, a solid and permanent solution. I'll let you know how I got on...... Thanks again and everybody who contributed!! Roland.

This is one that I picked up a while ago to restore and send on its way. A Cortebert 25 jewel auto probably from the 70's or early 80's. As you can see it was in need of a little TLC on the outside.... And by the look of it on the inside too. With the back off the movement looks pretty clean. It's an ETA 2783, a good solid workhorse, and apart from a couple of light scratches to the rotor and auto wind bridge, it doesn't appear to have been abused. With the auto bridge off the scratch can now be seen to extend to the ratchet wheel as well. Looks like someone slipped undoing the rotor screw and skated their screw driver almost to the edge of the movement. They must have been pushing quite hard. I guess they didn't get as far as trying to remove the dial. All pristine under here. Calendar works out of the way and layout of the key-less works exposed. Dial side stripped out. Just the balance pivot setting to come out. Flipped back over now and the balance and cock removed. With the remainder of the bridges, and the barrel out, the going train layout is revealed. This is the under side of the auto bridge with the reversing wheel cock removed to expose the two reverser wheels on the right, and two reduction gears on the left. The fully stripped auto bridge. I think that this might be the missing centre post that Tim was referring to in his post on the ETA 2873. And the balance and cock go back onto the main plate (minus the jewel settings) ready for the Elma. That's everything out of the cleaner and ready to go back together. The mainspring was in really good shape so after a very light application of grease, and a few dabs of 8213 in the barrel wall recesses it goes back into the barrel. The balance jewels are then installed with a bit of 9010 and the free movement of the balance wheel checked. Also the state of the hairspring and it's proximity to the balance cock is checked. All is well here so the balance and cock come back off and go to one side whilst the rest of the train goes together. Going train back in. I just love how bright and shiny it all comes out of the wash. Barrel and bridges back in place. HP1300 for the barrel pivots, 9020 for the second wheel, 9010 for the rest. With the ratchet wheel, crown wheel, and click in place I can now check the recoil on the escape wheel. All good. Pallets back in place and lock and draw checked, then a touch of 941 on the exit pallet, transferred to the escape wheel teeth by gently working the pallet fork manually. Then drop in the balance, and off she goes. It's then just a matter of reassembling the calendar works, key-less works, and the auto wind module, and the mechanics are done. And there's a nice drop of ETA goodness to confirm that all is well. A very gentle clean for the dial and hands, polishing of the case, and a new armoured crystal, and things look a whole lot better than they started. I hope that this proves useful to somebody. This has now had a 24 hour test drive and has managed to stay within a couple of seconds of spot on on the wrist. I really like the look of this one and it's a very comfy size, I almost decided to hang on to it but I just can't justify another at the moment, so it is now on eBay. If anyone is interested I will post up the item number although it should be easy enough to find. Marc.

I love looking and watchmakers bench's and the tools that are used, it seems to say alot about a watchmaker and his work. This is my work bench at the moment. It's a regular computer desk elevated with risers to about 35 inches, just under 3 feet. As I'm just starting out I know my tools will have to gradually change to better quality than the Chinese tools that I mostly have....what's on your bench? Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Sorry what do you mean? That they side with seller and you're worried about selling ?

Would the lift angle of this movement be 42 degrees? I just realized this morning's "quick test" before heading to the office may be inaccurate since I had it set to 52 degrees. This may not need a service after all, lol.

Very nice

If it's the same as mine this should help you Roger.

http://dirkfassbender.de/stacking-tool-boley.html

OK, I can't just leave all the ETA, Valjoux, and Seiko heads get all the posts! I came across this watch one night on ebay with bidding starting at $9.95... I put in the lone bid and didn't even notice when I had won it. Well, I figured it would be good for at least the parts as I hear that the bezels are almost always missing on this particular model. The Sapphire Beach has a 17 Jewel pin lever--my specialty! I got it and it looked pretty good on the inside so here go the pictures: It a rather big case for such a small movement.....its running like a charm and even has quick set date just like the real thing! This watch is something that I've seen only a few times, so I'm lucky to run across it so cheaply. The "jeweled" pin-lever movements being made in the 70's were mostly Baumgartner and Bettlach, and all it takes is a cursory glance on any bidding site and check out what some of these things go for the the 'bay to know that pin-levers are collectible. It is of course true they don't sit and give timegrapher readings like an Omega Constellation...but they've got plenty of personality! Regards, JC