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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/15 in all areas

  1. Getting the magnification right for yourself is probably the most important tool to get right. I have tried many loupes & found either the Bauch and Lomb or Bergeon the best. I have a chinese optivisor but personally found it to cumbersome & now only use it when working on clocks. However santa is getting me a "loupe behr Model 55 double" which attaches to your specs. I will let you know how I get on with it.
    2 points
  2. From experience, using normal tap water, and distilled water, I was noticing the plunger.hanger corroding, so purchased a new one from cousins, and using deionised water, the corrosion has been stopped.
    2 points
  3. Here is where I do most of my work My big lathe, mill, polishing gear etc are in my two other worshops.
    2 points
  4. Shot for Channel 4 in 1991, The Watchmaker, is a 10 minute documentary which glances at the life of Clifford Norman Bowler (1899-1993) a long-standing English watchmaker and definitely someone many of us would have liked to meet. Mr. Bowler belonged to the precise profession for over 70 years until his death at 93. Initially working for others in Manchester after he left the army, he set up his own repair shop at 54 Mill Lane, West Hamsptead, which he acquired for 100 pounds and run for over 67 years. Today there is a plate commemorating him at the entrance of his former premises. In the film he can be seen at his work bench smoking a pipe or inspecting watches with an eye loupe and at the counter taking several orders from customers (cleaning a pocket watch, changing a strap or a pin). He recounts for the camera his beginnings and how he moved to London, as well as remembering relatives. When asked about the secret of his longevity, he confesses this to owe to a contented mind, regular habits and a peaceful life. Sadly he did not leave any followers: 'All the knowledge that I have obtained and learned during over sixty years that I have been here, it all comes to nothing. I can't pass my knowledge on which I'd like to'. His shop, still vacant more than a decade later after his disappearance, symbolises the emptiness left by an irreplaceable man. There is more info about him in this article: http://westhampsteadlife.com/2014/01/15/a-moment-in-time-on-mill-lane/9921 If you ever met this man or heard about him, your comments could help to honour his memory.
    1 point
  5. Hi All , I was surfing the 'Bay about 2 weeks ago and came across this 1964 Seiko Sportsman Seahorse , Waterproof , Diashock 17 jewel , With a very clean Seikosha 957 Movement . It has the old style model number on the case back and the serial number is 7 digits , not the 6 digits that they use now . The model # is J13082 . It was being offered as a non-runner....as-is . It turned out that the balance roller jewel was not in the fork of the pallet and it was over wound . I remedied that pretty easy and although it does need a service , It keeps excellent time . As I bought it... This pic from the internet shows the movement....my movement looks very clean.. I bought this NOS case and back with the original crystal , movement ring , and caseback gasket [lubed and in good shape] , and the original crown that says SW . I am not familiar with that designation so I asked around and came up with the consensus that it stood for "Seiko Watch "...I am not really sure of that yet....The best part is that the case is the same model number and the serial # is different by about 5 or 6 months of the same year . The case back still has the protective plastic on it . And finally , here is the Re-Case....I like it.....
    1 point
  6. I've been buying far fewer watches in the latter half of this year than in previous years - using money for other pursuits - having decided to move away from the selected "cheapies but goodies" on eBay in favour of more considered purchases. The last watch I bought was a Christopher Ward C1000 auto, which I've worn virtually every day since getting it - and very nice it is too - and now I've picked up this very smart Le Coultre from 1956. [seller's] photos: Some info on Le Coultre for those interested: United States duty regulations made it more cost effective to import Jaeger LeCoultre movements, dials, crowns and hands into the USA from Switzerland and for the cases to be manufactured in the States. In the 1950’s the Longines Wittnauer group was the distributor of LeCoultre watches and Vacheron & Constantin watches sold in North America. The Longines Wittnauer group did not manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre watches as some people mistakenly believe, the movements were produced in the Swiss Jaeger LeCoultre factory at Le Sentier and were identical in every way to movements distributed within Europe other than the LeCoultre markings on the watch. The cases were manufactured under licence in the United States and were marked "Cased and Timed in the USA by LeCoultre". In approximately 1985 the brand name "Jaeger LeCoultre" was adopted worldwide. Some people believe that because LeCoultre movements are signed "VXN" on the bridge (denoting Vacheron & Constantin), they were manufactured by Vacheron & Constantin. This is incorrect. Jaeger LeCoultre supplied movements to Vacheron & Constantin, which were used in their watches but not vice versa. The only collaboration that ever took place between these two prestigious watchmakers was the "Galaxy" diamond dial model. The Galaxy was marketed by both companies; with the case marked "Vacheron & Constantin - LeCoultre Inc." and the dial signed "LeCoultre". Cheers, Will
    1 point
  7. Here's an entire catalog filled with absolutely essential goodies. I tried to order the 18 Volt Cordless Hammer, but their customer service is crap... http://www.meyette.us/hf_tool_sale.pdf :-) Gryf
    1 point
  8. Geo, check out Ramon from ebay, you might be able to find an original one for the watch. Cheers, Bob
    1 point
  9. When purchasing an optivisor, I recommend 2 attachment lenses so you don't lose depth of vision. They are inexpensive and worth it compared with the cost of the actual visor. They will attach to each side of the lenses. I also recommend the real glass (of both, Loupe attachment and actual lenses) ones vs. the plastic version of the same although the Donegan's frame is the same for both, the quality and durability of the lenses make it worth the extra money...although there is not much savings anyway, depending on choice of magnification. The new Donagan attaching mechanism for lenses is a simple screw and nut that I do by hand and stays put. Older models had some sort of plastic removable rivet that I've heard was a pain...or were since they are 2 attachments one at each end of the lenses. The Loupe attachment simply substitutes the normal screw with a built in, longer one. Easy and effective. The Chinese copies all have problems with the adjusting screws for the band that goes around your head...they break or won't work and are very uncomfortable. Also, the side tension screws for lifting the visor when not in use, slip and don't really work well. None of this is present in the Donegan optivisor. This is simply my opinion out of experience and preferences...
    1 point
  10. Many thanks indeed for that site! I had a look at it this afternoon and saw that he had various movements for sale - including Longines. I have a Longine Cal. 280 that I was going to case up but, alas, have been unable to find a case for it. So I emailed the site - the owner is called Emmanuel Lefebvre - enclosing pics of the 280 and asking if he'd care to buy it. (I asked a reasonable price, knowing that he had to make a profit, etc.). Back came the answer - yes - we agreed the asking price, I've just been paid via PayPal and the watch goes into the post first thing tomorrow morning. Job done! Will
    1 point
  11. I also have a double glass which clips on to my spectacles frame side, whereby each lens can be swivelled up and down as required. Very effective and quite cheap.
    1 point
  12. I also vote for Optivisors, only thing I would go for is adding more lenses eventually, so far the best thing Ive used. Very comfortable and I can always lift lenses if I dont need it so no taking it in and out - it stays where it is ready for use. Mine are Donegan, wasnt cheap but I think it was worth. I have no idea about Chinese ones, but I did some budget buys in the past and always regret it at some point so I stopped. I cant work with wire loupes - its just annoying. If I need closer inspection with strong magnification I use it by hand.
    1 point
  13. Another vote for the Optivisor, I wouldn't be without mine now.
    1 point
  14. Lately I decided to upgrade and bought the Donegan OptiVisor with both the 2.75x and the 3.5x lenses. In addition I added two of their optiLoupes, one for each eye. This is by far a better tool than my previous ones. I've tried all kind of optical solutions before: the loupes with and without the wire (wire from Bergeon, mind me). I own several of those from different manufacturers: Horotec, Bauch and Lomb, generic, you name it. I can't stand them! I also ventured into the stereo microscope and the Donegan double-glass loupe which attaches to the glasses (with two lenses)...also a couple of different Chinese versions with different magnifications....also some sort of Chinese loupes that come in a frame like glasses. No success either! Of all of those solutions, I believe the only ones that fit the bill for my style are the latest Donegan Optivisor: they are comfortable, -- not like my previous Chinese versions, second place in this "mini" review -- and they offer the magnification flexibility I need. As a plus the Optivisor can be used with glasses, (the Chinese version too) which I will when my new ones are ready. One down side is for close work at high magnification you have to be careful since they tend to hit things around your bench if they are too close to your work...think mini bench, etc. I will probably buy the 2x or less magnification lenses in the future since sometimes it is all you need or... My next one will be a round, lighted bench magnifier and see how it fares... Hope this helps, Cheers, Bob PS: The Donegan models of Optivisors include the LX model but those use plastic lenses. I passed on those although the price was attractive. The parts are interchangeable with the regular model using crystal lenses.
    1 point
  15. Could any of this work . http://www.passionchrono.com/en/343-tissot
    1 point
  16. A bit more progress. Just the crown to make, put on some dial markings, and a clean up and tidy. Hands made out of a broken main spring. Hour wheel extended Fourth wheel ground down to remove sub seconds Crown will be made out of an old brass bolt and fitted to an extended stem Dial markings to be added Watch is keeping good time
    1 point
  17. What optics did you use? And the "T" shaped tool, what Bergeon model is that? :D Cheers, Bob
    1 point
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