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I thought that this may be of interest to folks here as there's been lots of talk and questions about the Seitz jeweling set. http://ihc185.infopop.cc/helphand/pdf/seitz.pdf I hope you find it useful. Mike

You won't see many trolls these days, most are inside on their computers! ;)

Nice to meet you SS. I followed your posts about restoring the watch cleaning machine with great interest. Shortly afterwards I obtained the same model at great price and your posts were an invaluable help. After a full restoration based on you posts it now looks and works like it was made yesterday so thanks a lot for that. I think you also posted about Jeweling sets. I've got one with a few issues then picked up another one from eBay and now have a great full set. It looks like we're a pair of Black Country Brothers !!! I know it's quite a way from where you are but we're off on a cruise to Norway in a week, hoping to see some snow and Northern lights. Don't know if it's allowed but what is the name. All the best, Mike

somebody shoot that thing.....

Yes SSTEEL I found yours after I'd posted but couldn't remove my post. In the end I decided to leave it as a separate post as it would be easier for people to spot. I did find this after searching the web, please don't think I highjacked your information.

That looks like a $1.99 chinese masterpiece - I'm impressed

Just a quick update. The clock originally looked like this after cleaning off the years of accumulated grime: After a fair bit of trial and error I used the following: 3 coats Liberon Ebony Spirit Woodstain, 2 coats Slate Oil, 1 coat Renaissance micro-crystalline wax (thanks for the tip CB), 2 coats Painters Touch Acrylic Gold paint (from Homebase) to detail, put on liberally with brush & scraped back with razor blade between coats. a final 2 coats Renaissance micro-crystalline wax. and this is what it look like now: My initial trials with oil worked well at first but the pale patchy areas came back to haunt me after a couple of days. Tried Priorys Black Slate Renovator without success. The spirit woodstain has worked well, its not perfect but acceptable. Some surface corrosion is noticeable at certain light angles & as Oldhippy rightly states the only way to get rid of this would be to pull it apart, grind & polish. The pale patchy areas are now well masked. The Slate Oil appears to be none other than boiled linseed oil & was slower to dry than the original Floor Oil, If I did one again I would use Floor Oil.

Hi Geo, I had not thought of changing from the raw brass and just buffing when needed. However, your post has got me thinking. If I do anything I think it would be gold plated, unless you have any other suggestions? Hi Vic, they were done by hand, and I am not entirely happy with them, but time restraints means I need to press on. The method I used was actually quite easy, and it was as follows; Cut an over lengthed piece of main spring and bend reasonably flat Soft solder at the ends to a thin piece of oversized brass. I used 0.5mm as it is what I had for the dial base Drill the hole where it fits onto the hour wheel Then use a dremmel type tool with grinding disc to shape your hand to how you want it. The brass helps to grip it, and also to control the grinding. During the grinding the hand will naturally come away from the brass. Grind off to finally release the hand from brass sheet., Tidy up as required with dremmel type tool and then sand on a piece of wet and dry, both sides. I put the hands on a 2mm piece of brass sheet and heated from underneath. As soon as hands start to turn light blue take the heat away

It's certainly different but definitely not one for me!

Here's a few. I made this today for tightening the nut when replaing a rotor bearing on an Omega 1120. Pair of levers (only one shown) great for hands and especialy snap case backs. Balance tack. Minute hand puller for an Atmos clock. Movement holder for Atmos clock.

I use a ribbed mat for my tweezers, hand levers, and hand fitting tools. Untitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr