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Was reassembling the keyless works on a Waltham Ruby movement, and it has a c spring that can be a bit of a pain to re-install, it took off, so the search began, the watchmakers desk was thoroughly checked, and the floor was gone over, finally ready to concede defeat, I started going through my parts movements looking for a replacement, so I was looking into the drawer I noticed my shirt pocket, when I wondered, could it have, so I checked my shirt pocket and there it was. Well I have learned my lesson, when I get a spring that has previously tried to escape the work area, I like to use a clear plastic large ziplok bag, I cut a hole just big enough for my left hand in the bottom and reseal the zip part around my right, try keep the movement in the center of it during the installation, it has saved me plenty of time doing grid searches. Also it is a safe place to practice spring installation, I would always try to pick the end of the spring I was installing, instead I found if I used the tweezers as a pusher and pushed the end it was so much easier!

Just recently i have been rather busy with a large intake of repairs & servicing, i figured since ive worked so hard ( and yet still have more to do ) id treat myself to another tool. I know i don't really need it but i do like Bergeon tools and this one i picked up is in mint condition with original box. I normally use my Bergeon staking set but this will make a nice addition to my growing collection. Sad that a new tool makes me excited, or are you guys like me ? Next on my list is the Bergeon hairspring collet tightening tool :) Hopefully i should have some nice watch photos to upload over the coming weeks as i have had an Omega repair frenzy including a rather battered Omega RAF 1953 Cal 283 and also a return of a personal favourite 1956/58 Seamaster, and not forgetting a complete restoration of a Tudor Oyster Princess :D

Here is an excellent prime example of a Hamilton Brandon model wristwatch. These watches were made from 1948-1951 and are 10KGF with 18K solid-gold numerals on a silverdial. This particular watch is a wonderful, very clean example with an original dial. Note from my pics how crisp and clear the dial is - especially the "cld" and the seconds sub-dial. Dial restorations do not replicate the "cld" as well as this original dial from 65 years ago. This Brandon has the original gold hands which are in perfect condition. There is no pitting anywhere on this watch. Of particular note is that this watch was completely serviced (disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt and timed) by Rene Rondeau, the world's foremost expert on vintage Hamilton watches, who has recently retired. The last 2 pics were sent to me by Rene as he was working on this watch. He noted how nice the dial was (he also concluded it is original) and that the cal 980 17 jewel movement was also very clean. Indeed, this watch runs strong and accurate as a wind-up vintage wristwatch! This is a fixed-lug version and I can find only a very few issues - it is almost perfect with virtually no wear! If you look closely at the pics, there is a fine hairline scratch on the dial (between the 1 and 2) that is very hard to see in-person. The back still has the original brushed gold finish and has only 1 faint small scratch that I can see. I cannot find any scratches on the crystal. You will be hard-pressed to find another Brandon CLD in this fine condition; especially one that has also been serviced by Rene Rondeau!

I'm going to assume that you are talking about fitting the balance back into the watch correctly so that the impulse jewel enters the fork correctly when the balance turns. Here's what I said in an earlier post on the subject:- "This is the bit that gave me the most heartache when I started. Wind the watch 1-2 turns and check that the escapement levers flicks sharply from side to side by gently pushing it with a dry oiler or tooth pick. If all is well, fit the balance wheel. Make sure that you position the balance jewel correctly regarding the end of the lever. Looking down on the lever, if it lying to the right, ensure that the balance jewel is even further to the right when you drop the balance into position. Vice versa if the lever is lying to the left. As you turn the balance cock into the correct position the balance jewel will automatically engage the lever and watch should start running. As a wee aside, when oiling a watch, do not oil the pivot jewels on the escapement lever." Oops I almost forgot, welcome to the forum! :)

Hi Steven. Welcome.

Does it show the time lost on the timegrapher with the hands and dial on, and time properly with them off? If so, the issue is not with the movement, it's in the fitting of those items. Here's a few troubleshooting items to look at: 1. Check that the dial feet are not bent. This can cause the dial to seat off-center and rub on either the pinion or the hands. Make sure each of the four holes in the dial are perfectly centered around each post for the hands. 2. Check that all hands clear the dial and the other hands ... especially the subsidiary seconds hand ( @ 9 o'clock) is not touching the dial. 3. Check the hands are not contacting the glass. Hope this helps.

I purchased my set from Ed the Wtch a Doc. http://watchdoc.com/

I'll throw my hat into the ring here. I have one verse of Scripture for the Swiss. Proverbs 16:18 (KJB) Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall. I'm old; but not that old, and I can easily remember when the only thing that came out of China was cheap shoddy plastic toys. Only a few decades back, companies the western world laughed at China's manufacturing base and quality ... well those companies laughed themselves into bankruptcy and don't exist any more. Meanwhile, China has gone from strength to strength, and presently dominates the world in manufactured goods. It's no secret that ETA has been manufacturing parts, and complete movements, in Asian countries like Thailand for many years. The Swatch Group has fallen into the same trap of avarice that all western corporations perish in - by giving away their manufacturing knowhow to countries with a cheap labour force in order to make that "Yearly Record Profit". Will we ever learn!! If I had a several million dollars to invest, I'd be in China right now, tooling up a factory. Then I'd go out and poach some of ETA's Swiss\Thai staff to train my workforce. The first to do this, and delivery quality aftermarket ETA spares to market, will have a license to print money.

I also think the problem may be in the balance-hairspring. Try checking the watch in different positions on the bench. If watch runs fine say dial up and gains time dial down you might look for a cracked jewel. Another problem could be in the placement of the hairspring stud in its holder. If the spring is a bit high or low the spring could be coming in contact with either the balance bridge or arms on the balance itself and it's possible that it could only show up when changing position of the watch. If anyone is curious as to why I say this I recently had to replace a hairspring on a ladies Omega 484 and when I checked it on machine dial up it ran fine but went crazy dial down. If I remember right the hairspring was making a slight contact with the balance bridge. Spring was not bent so I thought well maybe I just pushed stud up too far when I installed balance. Pushed it down a hair and problem went away. A 484 is a pretty small movement and I had to look at it under 20x microscope to see it rubbing the balance bridge. Charles K

Agreed - the lube required for the correct friction is 9501 Do not tighten the floating canon pinion (the one under the hour wheel) - it is supposed to be loose.

I've had springs on my cheek, eyebrows, elbows ... what happens when something goes flying is...... I freeze and then scan the desk with my eyes.. followed by my shirt/lap....then my arms and hands including between the fingers (cap jewels usually are found here) then my face. If this fails then its on the floor I go. My workroom is not carpeted and we dont usually wear shoes indoors in Malaysia so after checking the soles of my feet (if the part is a light spring) its broom and dustpan time. Its quite alarming the amount (and type) of crap you find on the floor of a room ...! The strange thing is I can spend more than a few minutes looking for a part without finding it, having given it up for lost, it turns up sometime later! Sometimes a few days later..now I keep a missing persons list on my desk. Currently MIA are a bridge screw from a Kif 414, Seiko diashock spring, date jumper spring and an ETA case clamp. The biggest thing to go AWOL was a barrel from an Enicar 167.. not the barrel arbor..the barrel! Took a few days to find it (replacing it was not an option as these movts are thin on the ground!) and finally located it in the unzipped pocket of a bag which was a few feet away! I had checked the bag earlier but since earlier searches were negative I had begun to systematically go thru every thing with the proverbial fine toothed comb! TIP... when dealing with springs or gripping something hard with a pair of tweezers, keep your free hand cupped around the movement so that it prevents any parts from flying away from you. If your desk is like mine, the area immediately in front will be a bit cluttered and this saves you from an unscheduled housekeeping session. Anil