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Lawson, I was so impressed that instead of clicking on 'like', I searched the web for a gold plated Dumont brass Nr. 4. It doesn't appear to be anymore available. So I have whittled down a brass Nr. 5 and have almost perfected the tips. Here it is before final dressing and gold plating.

No, but when we go down to the sea we are supercharged.

Cousins sell an antistatic bench mat with the label A*F Switzerland. It consists of two layers the upper green and lower white. Between the two is a space that in the sample that I purchased contained some air. If it was made in Switzerland there would be less of a problem, but it was probably made at sea level, perhaps the South China Sea? At our altitude of 720 m it inflated like a flat balloon. The solution was simple, just a hole in the lower white skin. Anyone tempted to buy this 'Swiss' version and living at high altitude, for example Denver, should note this fix. Or try the cheaper Cousins model.

I did until my brother sent me this link. Still can't believe it works. http://youtu.be/c1IzS2oBBN0

Bob, parts are more difficoult than the entire movement to find, actually, but even if you find 1 working movement, it will be rather expensive (well, for seiko standards, that is). You are better off to find a battered donor watch and swap the movement, like everybody does (except me, of course). I tend to try and fix these, even if it is rather hard... remember all the movement parts except some wheels are in plastic, and tend to break really easily.

Looks like they beat Mark to the stop motion bit by about 50 years [emoji1] Love these old videos and the narration. http://youtu.be/TQd-0YXqmR0

Depends on the caliber, Kundo, 49,52,53,54,55 use 0.0032" (0.81mm) HOROLOVAR Kundo junior's 52,53,5455,56 use 0.0023" (.058MM) HOROLOVAR Kundo Midget 58 use 0.0022" (.056mm) HOROLOVAR The set up is very critical with a 400 day clock. The length of the spring & the position of the lever that operates the escapement is important.Also what is also important to get correct is the thickness of the suspension spring. Too thick or too thin & it becomes impossible to get the clock in time as you run out of adjustment. Even with the correct thickness sometimes it is necessary to thin the springs thickness a touch. Over the years I have repaired & serviced a lot of these movements & because they use very little energy to run for in theory 400 days with one wind everything has to be correct. I highly recommend you invest in a book "400 Day Clock" by Charles Terwillinger

Thought I would share my cheat sheet for lubrication. I plan to add a new tab to this for Chronograph parts as well as sections for date complications. I put this together from Mark's videos. If anyone sees something glaringly wrong, please let me know and I will fix it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LiO9xEzvBK6C5kfLSarTTbtFMdQmeSaz1ozCHv4RDZg&authuser=0

That description clears it up. My best guess is there are two separate problems that need to be addressed. And both may be very easy fixes. 1. The main spring barrel needs to be opened and you need to see if the spring is broken or if it's not catching the center arbor. Sometimes when they slip a few times the force of the spring slipping opens the inner coil of the spring even further which makes the slipping worse...until it won't catch at all. This can be repair by gently closing the inner coil with some pliers so that its tighter around the arbor. 2. If the stem isn't "clicking" firmly in place that will cause all sorts of problems when winding. These fingers can often be bent slightly inwards so they engage the stem more tightly. Pull the stem out of the sleeve by pulling on the square end. Squeeze the fingers slightly inward. Reinsert the stem and see if it "clicks"