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I posted on another thread about the watch bench I bought that was full of tools. Many of them suffering some rust. Well, I did the research. In particular, the Project Farm youtube channel (which I love) did a review of all the rust removers (well...maybe not all, but some of the obvious candidates). Happily for this crew, Coca Cola was included in the review. After watching the video, I decided to go minimalist and least invasive--white vinegar. A few hours in the soak and not much happened. So...sez me...I will add heat and a little ultrasonic action. So I put the rusty parts in a beaker filled with white vinegar, immersed into a mixture which was mostly water (did not matter, because it was just a medium to pass the ultrasonic waves). Wow. Fifteen or twenty minutes later and the rust was GONE. I wish I had taken a "before" picture but I did not. Even though Project Farm did not give high marks to white vinegar, it can be quite effective in combination with heat and ultrasonics. Perhaps Coke would have worked as well using heat and vibration...that will be a later experiment perhaps.

The rust was apparently holding my balance together...

HI, I thought I'd post a photo of my finished watch, since you all helped me fix it, you at least should see the finished product. (Sapphire crystal and display back, SST case). I'm very pleased. I put it on the time grapher and it's @ -7sec day, 221 deg Amp, and 0.4 ms beat error right now. I'll run it for a few days and check it again. Thanks again everyone, I truly appreciate all your help! Bill

I spy a new watch repair video from Mark on YT !

I dont think that is a screw there matey. Setting lever screws are quite often on the other side on vintage swiss. What movement do you have there. Not set lever probably yoke. Where are the rest of the keyless

It doesn't look like a properly formed screw head and yes it's usually a post, so hopefully it will slide off with a little effort.

4205 is a fiddly little thing isn't it? That 'spring' isn't actually a spring. It's the magic lever, which is what turns the oscillating weight movement into an action that winds the mainspring. If you look online for Seiko 4205A you should find a schematic without too much difficulty. In fact, here's one I found for you: https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=4205 But looking at the doc it doesn't show what you need. Instead, look at the 4205B and you will see how it all goes together. Hope this helps.

Very well done article explaining how a mechanical watch works using interactive 3D animations: https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/

If the setting lever's still functional then why do you need to remove the screw? Then I really need to look at the picture more carefully and you need the study your terminology better? I'm attaching a PDF of your parts lists. So you get the names right and a picture With some part circled. The image you have is pointing to a post which does not unscrew it's usually machined in the plate. The part that is riding on the post according the parts list is called a Yoke. The setting lever in This watch has already been removed and it looks like it's one that doesn't have a screw. So basically you should build just pull this off the post unless it's stuck on with rust or dirty oil or something then you might have to move it back and forth a little bit but it should come free as there's no screw holding it in place. 925_ETA 2770, 2772, 2782.pdf

Strange, best to get a diagram and see if the screw is suppose to be there.

I was thinking of 1p but then I thought that was way to much.

You have access to the terminals of the device, so you can test to see if it is a diode. Can you point to where the coils are connected? I cannot see from the images. The other image you posted makes me think it is a capacitor...so I am leaning that way.

I don't pay much attention to lift angle on the timegrapher as I find it easier to just use a slo-mo phone video to see the amplitude.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275204678320?hash=item40137a22b0:g:hR4AAOSwXWdfDgZn

A spectacular piece of crap. Made in China The seller says it’s a Double Fusee, Victorian (1837-1900), Time Period Manufactured: 1800-1900. Price £550.00 More like 10 years old. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115377271906?hash=item1add057462:g:ua4AAOSws0RieRMq

My initial guess is that it is a diode used to snub reverse EMF when the transistor turns off causing the collector voltage to swing beyond the positive voltage of the battery. Standard practice when driving a coil. There appears to be some non-factory soldering going on there.

Where I live its called gut rot. I've seen people normally the ones on holiday down the first pint in a few seconds by the time they have the third they pass out of throw up. They always tend to look a bit green. Us locals don't touch the real rough stuff. I used to prefer very strong lager but not now. I can't remember the last time I had a pint. I prefer a mug of hot strong tea. A real sign of old age, but I draw the line to a pipe and slippers.

Good old farm house rough cider is another for removing rust it also cleans coins as well.

I get quite upset and disgusted by it. Quality brand names that were around for over a hundred years to have their reputations completely destroyed and their names attached to something that bares no resemblance whatsoever to what that company actualy stood for.

I may have mentioned before that 'you can't have too many multimeters' and others here have hinted that there is no such thing as too many watches, so why not combine both. A volt meter in a metal pocket watch case, with what looks suspiciously like possibly an asbestos infused flying lead. I'm pretty sure this would fail petty much every part of every electrical safety standard the world over. Time to don the hazmat suit and the rubber gloves perhaps.

I also discovered that the balance was matched to the main plate s/n. I have two 313's. One from 1912 the other from 1928 and since they look so similar I thought I could easily swap parts willy-nilly. Not so.

Very nice indeed! Atta boy!!

There is a lot of old brand names that have been bought up by Chinese companies.

A quick investigation indicates that Earnshaw watches is owned by Darrmouth Brands Ltd which in turn is wholly owned by Solar Time Ltd ... a watch manufacturer based in Hong Kong. So, yes, it's a genuine Earnshaw on that basis. Here are some other brands Dartmouth/Solar operate: https://www.dartmouthbrands.co.uk/ I note with interest one of these brands is Cortebert ... a bygone name I'm familiar with and one of the many manufacturers who went down the pan with the quartz crisis. That doesn't seem to mean that someone else can't use that name many decades later even if the Swiss and (operating since) 1790 connotations are misleading.

It looks like the watch can be genuine but genuine what? If you take the name on the dial the number on the back look on the Internet over the place including Amazon? If you look at the reviews on Amazon not the best and it hints at something basically poor quality Chinese. I think what the problem you're having is the same problem I'm having? The name looks familiar dial looks pretty good and the movement looks suspicious? The name seems familiar and if you look at the second link you'll see why. But if you look at the first link then it's just a name on a watch. It's one of the unfortunate realities of watches the original name had meaning the current name is just something to sell the watch. In this case a Chinese watch. One look at the first link all those watches look really cheap definitely Chinese.. So it does appear to be genuine just not genuine quality. https://thomas-earnshaw.com/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Earnshaw

Just an update at the close of this little project of mine. Here's a picture of the final article, warts-and-all. You can see the damage to the scale, and the flaking paint I mentioned earlier, neither of which affect the function of the tool, which I'm delighted with. Something else I learned which may or may not be useful for others to know. The knurled ring on top of the micrometer screw is a separate part and a simple interference fit above the scale. Thanks again to everyone who offered advice and assistance.

Hi @rossjackson01 I've found that BB was the brand Brooks and Bentley. Here's another watch from this brand showing your logo and details on the certificate indicating a UK based brand.

He has removed it. These are his replies to me Question Why have you described this clock as a very rare clock saying it is buy HUGUENIN A PARIS. When it is a Chinese fake. Answer HI IT HAS IT ON IT THANKS Question So you believe everything that has writing on it to be true. How bloody naive you are. So you don’t mind ripping people off. Answer HOW DO YOU NOW IT IS FAKE I HAVE A VERY GOOD RATING THANKS Question Simple. There has only ever been one made by Huguenin. Compare the genuine to the rubbish you are fobbing off. Look here. http://www.my-time-machines.net/Huguenin.htm Answer Ok mate I have taken it of

Hi guys, I’m servicing a ETA 2782 movement from a Titoni watch. First sight: this thing is HELLA dirty. Timegrapher says amp ~150º, +68spd, 3.6 ms beat error. Someone carved the last service date into the back of the dial, it states 1989. Was wondering if anyone have the service manual to check out the oil spots. Thanks!

Hi Here is a general lubrication chart as put out by Ottp Frei and the other is the rules of lubrication according to omega. Probably too complex but never the less some intersting points. cheers moebiuslubricatingchart.pdf 1472711985_8645_WI_40_rulesforlubricationcousinsuk (1).pdf

Hi This is just the tech sheet giving part no etc may be helpfull will try to find a lubrication chart for you. cheers 925_ETA 2770, 2772, 2782.pdf

Hello all, my name is Anthony. I have been collecting timepeices for the better part of 10 years now, and have been studying watchmaking for 3 years now. I have just been the lucky buyer of a Steiner Jacot tool with adjustabke height. I currently own a Steiner Jacot tool, but find I can not find any info on how to properly use this new one with adjustable height. I have been following Marks videos and find them great, Mark thanks for taking all the time to do this, and also all the others who help and contribute. I think this forum is great. Please if anyone has any info that would great. The first of many posts. I can not post pic, because I have not received the too yetl, can I post the website link here to the auction site I won it on?. Many thanks Anthony

This is really nice. I read the whole thread with great interest, since I still do not own a timing machine, and I only can find chinese branded ones on eBay for the budget I can dedicate to it. I used until now my cheapo-tablet with an android app, and eve if it is not extremely precise, it gets the job done (at least for a hobby watchmaker like myself). I was aware right from the start that the mic on this tablet was not the "best", so I was looking at a DIY solution, and found this project here. I do not posses the necessary soldering skills to build it, though, after going through all the pics in this thread, so I am looking to get the "pro" version, whenever you make it available.