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Its like a guide tube for the main wheel and is usually lightly pressed into the center of the main plate. I did, however, manage to find it! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Yes, the 381 is Ti, but the 361 is SS. Then virtually any watch or glass sold in CA should come with the warning, but it is not so. As I said, unless I see an official Seiko source and the specific chemical mentioned, I'm not convinced.

Hi, juat wanted to post an update that I got the aftermarket Rolex style crown in and it works well. I had to tap the case for the new tube and locktite it in place and make some adjustments to the stem and all is well. Thanks! Most of the way through reassembly and I have mysteriously lost part number 161 the center tube...Are these easily sourced for a 2824? I found several on the Bay and one is titled 2800. Does that mean it fits all movements with a 2800 series prefix? I'm new to this taxonomy. Best, C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

This isn't a question but more a method that someone else my want to try. (A new spring clip would have cost me $5.) The Seiko 7S26C I was working on had a loose day wheel spring clip. I tightened it by holding it with tweezers and then while holding the clip with the tweezers I put the tweezers between a movement holder and by turning the knob on the movement holder squeezed the tweezers and the spring clip they were holding together. Worked very well and now the day wheel is being held in place by a tight spring clip.

About $15 unless not a common type. Plus what the repair shop will ask, which can be very little sometime.

I'm sure the State of California have all sorts of opinions. What's the proven scientific evidence? People used to quite happily, without any measure of harm, walk around with radioactive lume! You would have to take the watch apart and breathe the stuff in or absorb through the skin to be harmful [emoji4] Also replacing a hardlex crystal to sapphire is a simple task but slightly costly. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Staking is usually separate than jeweling. The forces and precision needed are very different in each. Having said that, both sets come with adapters to cross over work. I believe the 600 may not have the micrometer needed for jeweling. You would have to figure out what size jewels you need to replace to figure out if the pushers in the set are there or missing. If you have several movements that need jewel replacement and plan to do more such work in the future I highly recommend the Horia tool. What would work great is to make sure you're buying 4mm staking set so that you can buy the plain 4mm Horia and use the K&D pushers and anvils. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

blue steel isn't a different kind of steel, it is just tool steel that has been tempered to blue after hardening - and you buy it that way in a package saving some steps. it will machine but is a lot less machinable than annealed, as Marc noted above. "Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment" is the book for the amateur/home shop type if wanted to learn about it - its a small paperback. imo hardening and tempering is an important home shop skill applicable to horology as in addition to parts, its how you make your own cutting tools - something used quite a bit if read horology texts etc. Non-horology wise its saved me numerous times over the years, gear cutters, broaches, specialty taps etc

If it's specifically quartz (showing my bias, as I have a general dislike of Solar and Kinetic watches.) This is a far better proposition and currently can be had at £135 ! If quartz accuracy is your thing I believe these are accurate to 10 seconds a year Guaranteed Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

yeah the chucking end of drills are not hardened, and if they're hss you wouldn't be able to heat treat them. The ends are left soft so the chuck can get a grip on them. This one reason why you're not suppose to use an endmill in a drill chuck - its hardened all the way along itself can easily spin in a drill chuck because the jaws get no bite. One has to select the quench to match the steel. W1 is a water quench, O1 is oil etc. The differences are the speed of the quench - you'll get O1 in oil about the same rockwell as you will W1 in water. Oil is slower than water, cold brine fastest of all. O1 in water is too fast and you risk cracks. W1 in oil is too slow, you want get full hardness. Don't forget to temper though! Of the different tool steels, ie if not buying pre done blue temper stuff, I'd recommend a length O1 oil hardening tool steel (aka drill rod but not all drill rod is O1!). Traditionally a little more expensive that W1, the quench is a little slower than for W1. A couple of bucks for a three foot length of 1/8" diameter will last a looooong time and its easy to machine as it comes annealed so is also good for practice

I think the build up of DNA helped a bit too [emoji1]