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I have had a few issues with Paypal over the years but I have never come across "over drafting" I am still not sure what it is. I have had buyers claim that they did not receive the item However because I sent the items by to be "signed for" I won the cases because I had proof of delivery. In this case the buyer claims the item was not as described. Therefore the seller has to either prove to eBay that the item was exactly as described or offer a full re-fund ON RETURN OF THE ITEM. If the seller receives nothing then there should be no re-fund. An important point to be made is trading on eBay still carries the same trading regulations as all other traders in the UK have to abide by. I have seen many times NO RETURNS by sellers and I personally avoid them. Why ? because it raises suspicions about the item being sold and a absolute NO RETURNS is against the UK trading standards act. As I understand it, you can have a returns policy but you can not impose a absolutely NO returns. See below for the UK rules & what return guide policy you can offer your customers. If eBay has a fault is it allows sellers to suggest they can have an absolutely NO RETURNS policy. https://www.businesscompanion.info/en/quick-guides/goods/returns-policies#WhatcanIsayinmyreturnspolicy https://www.gov.uk/accepting-returns-and-giving-refunds

I have some Moebius D5 I bought from Cousins last year. It's a 20ml bottle which I'm unlikely to finish in my lifetime, let alone between now and the end of April 2017 which is the shelf life expiry date of this batch. I haven't been able to find a clear answer to just what the expiry date means for the oil in the bottle. Does it mean the oil should no longer be used from that date? Does it mean that if you use it at the end of the shelf life period the oil will do its job for another two or three years in the watch? Either way, as a tinkerer I'd be content to use it for the next couple of years. That would still leave me with more D5 than a hobbyist would ever need, so I'm planning to keep 2ml and I'm offering the rest of the bottle to other tinkerers in either 1ml or 2ml doses. I have some new small 2ml glass bottles, an unopened syringe and a blunt mixing needle to decant the oil without contamination. You can have it for free, but I'll provide my paypal address in the package if you want to make a voluntary contribution to the P&P. If all of the oil is taken I'll post an update in this thread. PM me with a postal address and tell me whether you would like 1ml or 2ml.

You have to combine a couple of different methods, but basically line everything up reasonably well, gently lower the bridge (baring in mind it wont be lined up), place the bridge screws in if possible, but tighten them only so far as the bridge will be kept vaguely in place, Then you can combine gently wiggling of the bridge (which i do with a cot covered finger) manipulating of the wheels with pegwood (at which time you'll want to let up on any downward pressure on the bridge), and with great care, patience and perhaps a good eye -- to see which wheel is off two degrees in what direction -- you can usually line it up so that everything will slip into place. tightening the bridge screws gradually as you go, checking for problems, once you think you have it, continue to finish tightening the screws but do keep checking for problems, see if the gear train runs properly, if it doesn't you might make matters worse by screwing the bridge down firmly. That's the approach that works for me anyway, others might have better things to say.

Darren, I have had some success with positioning bridge until almost aligned with pivots then prodding the wheels (gently) from underneath until the bridge drops into place. It's time consuming to say the least and you have to have enough access under the bridge to fit a long thin needle like tool or toothpick. I suppose you could use the rodico to hold the bridge with one hand and try manipulating wheels with your other hand. If you did this all day, every day, chances are you'd get to be pretty good at it! Dave

Theft is something and fraud is another, generally the latter is harder to prove. Typically the police only starts investigating after numerous complains again the same individual, and is slow to act. When you accuse someone to have deliberately not placed an item in shipping for a sale or return, that is virtually impossible to prove. And if you accuse someone and can't prove it, you risk to be prosecuted for slander, which is a serious crime too. In practice the only safeguard is to avoid any risk situation, and Ebay+PayPal+valuable item+unknown buyer builds this negative equation perfectly. Sharing usernames on forums is also of little value, there are millions of items, thousands of scammers, and no central database.

The trouble is with these types of videos they make it look easy, which in this case its not they don't cover the problems that can happen. Use these types of video as a basic how it can be achieved.

What jdm says is 100% true. Had some issues with paypal in the pas,t, I only buy now in eBay and sell on my shop, where I give 100% guarantee of full refund if something is wrong with the product, but only on receipt of the watch and my inspection. And even though I accept paypal as payment, I prefer always bank money transfer. Plus, I don't see why I should pay as seller so high commissions to paypal....

I have said that before and I'll say it again. I could cite hundreds of forum threads and scam stories like this. I wish that people that sells items of some value would read the Internet before starting selling on ebay with PayPal. And I'm also a bit disheartened that (as in this case) people still confuses Ebay and PayPal, which are co-operating but separate companies, Ebay does not handle money, only PayPal does, and PayPal always have the last decision, unless you want to take them to court of course. If you can't take the risk, the item is valuable, etc, do not sell on Ebay and only use non-reversible methods of payments. Even if you set a NO RETURNS policy, PayPal will accept a dispute for non conforming item. Even if you film packaging, security seal and ship signed for, if a fraudulent buyer claims no items in box, you will lose the dispute. If the buyer falsely returns the item, you will lose. Even if the buyer looses the dispute, he can still file a chargeback with the C/C, and you will lose. All that while you pay a total of 15% fees for having virtually zero protection as a seller. Go read the fine print if you don't believe me. Remember, the entire concept of C/C issuer/merchant relations is about keeping chargebacks below 1 - 1.5% of the total, and there are to help merchants achieve that. But if you are an individual, low volume seller, all it takes is a single large loss to be done and busted for a long time. By now the scammers have now learned that is far easier to exploit the buyer protection and defraud honest sellers.

That is an absolutely awful story. I've had some poor experiences selling on eBay as well which is why I primarily buy and not sell on the site now but I'll have a few watches to move soon so your story has certainly raised my eyebrows. I do appreciate you sharing.

This set https://www.eternaltools.com/watchmakers-screwdrivers/horotec-6-watchmakers-screwdrivers-set

Rc Design, Those are great looking machines. It looks like you have taken very good care of them. david

Ok, here are some pictures of the lathes i use at the moment! The lathe I use the most, Boley/Leinen Reform A sturdy Boley used mainly for lapping details on watch cases For bigger objects I use my Boley Prec.2 Currently under resoration, a Wolf / Jahn 8mm lathe with a whooping 493mm bed - intended to treplace my Boley for lapping jobs etc. And finally a Harrison M250 - used for making parts, jiggs etc. for the lathes etc.