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This is the clock I was talking about.

Why is it when that little voice says, "This is a bad idea," we always want to talk ourselves out of it? I had the low blood sugar jitters earlier, but insisted to myself that I'd be able to oil an especially tiny cap jewel on my friend's Omega 1001. With lots of concentration, I nailed it. But when I put the hole jewel on top, it was too much oil and it squoze out everywhere. It didn't spread on the cap jewel much thanks to the epliame I'd applied, so it was more than it looked like from the top. Back in the cleaner, dried, re-epilamed, dried. Time for a second try, but now I was more shaky even than the first time. "This is a bad idea," my brain told me. "Take a hike, brain," I said as I watched the oiler jiggle into my microscope's frame. And just like that, the jewel was a tiddlywink and flew out of sight in the blink of an eye. With a strong UV flashlight and the waste of a lot of time I did find it on my desk, but that's some stress I didn't need in my day. So friends, listen to your body, and listen to your brain when it tells you now's not the time for precision work.

I've never touched my life without alcohol . I'm your complete opposite Ross

Never touched alcohol in my life. I don't need alcohol to be stupid. Just comes naturally.

I put this quick vid together today when I was replacing the tropic crystal on this Rolex Oyster Perpetual. It wasn't the greatest filming, but hey!

Jacquemart automaton repeating pocket watch.

The cleaner smells of ammonia, but it's not too bad; just keep it covered as far as practical. I use an ultrasonic machine on a kitchen worktop. The rinse does not smell strongly, it's vaguely like paraffin. I did check the safety data sheets before buying it & it's said to be safe in normal use. My dedicated watch cleaning machine is still a work-in-progress; four position linear, based on 1L kilner jars for station spacing, to have a heated dryer in position 4. It uses standard, readily available parts as far as possible to make it easy to reproduce, plus 3D printed bits for the custom parts. (The horizontal drive motor is out at the moment while working on the stepper drive software)

I think the case turned out pretty nice in the end. Just thought I'd share a photograph:

Totally agree Mike, I'm having fermented plant extract right now.

If the hood will not slide off there might be a catch on the left side as you look at it. open the door and feel up inside to the left. Hoods normally slide of or lift off. Due to age it can be a very tight fit so a little force is needed but be careful not to pull the whole case with movement in side over, you don't want it to come crashing down. The lines are fraying and need replacing it isn't even on the pulley.

Hi, I just restored a Seiko 7005-7100, I used a Sternkreuz XMF 310.847 (31.00mm by 2.2mm thick with a bevel) (Seiko 310 W 19 GN00) from Cousins UK all pictured below. Fitted perfectly. Your Welcome CJ

Update on the Mudu Finished the service on March 31st. Wore the watch. Decided to clean the case. Guess what? Found the seconds hand in the fold of my working box Wednesday 15 May. Phew! Look at the difference that I can achieve. Wooho. Chuffed.

Did you notice in your technical documentation of 1970 it mentions this newfangled epilam stuff? One of the unfortunate problems of technical documentation is it does not magically update itself to the newest version and if it did it would disappear because it's restricted to Swatch group people only. Then there is the other problem of supplemental documentation. For instance in the late 50s in their lubrication guide they talk about epilam and practically everything in the watch. Then in the ever-changing thoughts of the day go to orally epilam adding the escapement components. But in the newest generation of stuff because epilam is less volatile solvents is more stable at room temperature they've gone back to epilam ing of the entire watch. It's actually in the last jar the cleaning machine with only a couple of things come out. Then we're back to a Problem of time again. Yes the reverser can come apart but ideally not to destroy it you would need the special tool which you do not have. A very long time ago I worked in a shop that was Omega authorized that I was looking forward to even seeing the special tool and he didn't have it. But yes it can come apart and you really don't want to do it. I'm attaching a working instruction which came from cousins hence notice on the corners we see where it came from. If you look on page 19 they cover lubrication of the reverser wheels. Even if and I can't remember which one one of the technical documents I have actually shows the tools explains it can be disassembled and then basically says just dip it in the whatever and be done with it and don't disassembled. 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf

Too true! I particularly enjoyed fixing the end shake issue with my brand new Chinese horia clone. I have now used that to improve 3 non runners - would have paid for itself already if I ever got round to selling the projects I have worked on!

Nothing special to the horological world, but this is my travel watch. For whatever reason, this watch has accompanied me through airport security more often than my appendix and gall bladder. I feel as if i need this with me as much as my passport.

I don't wear or own a watch. I have 12 clocks in my home but I only wind one per week, each week it is a different one. I'm funny that way.

These are some from a couple of job lot ebay batches totalling 40+ watches I got a few weeks ago, ~£2 or less each. I'd only looked at a couple of specifically interested ones so far, as I already had others of interest to look at I've just gone through some of the smallest ladies ones. I was expecting them to be mostly cheap quartz, but only one of them was - the others are all look like good quality mechanical ones! There are also a good selection of other types, including a couple of nice looking old Casios - and some blingy things..

My Omega Seamaster aqua terra. It's just me, very understated but classy ( not that I'm classy). I don't like dive watches, the bezel puts me off or any kind of bling. I prefer indices to numbers. I don't have any other luxuries, not into clothes, seldom go for expensive meals etc. So it's my little treat to myself. Not my watch but exactly the same, just got home and taken it off.

No, only about 1000f. But i took pleasure in roasting these annoyingly magnetized parts

Funnily enough, when heating iron or what watchmakers use for making tools which is 'tool steel', or what is also known as 'high carbon steel', as it has a carbon content between about 0.06 to 1.6% carbon content, (but don't quote me on those percentages!) and can be hardened and tempered, when the steel reaches a cherry red, around about 1450 to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit it becomes non-magnetic, so if you placed a magnetic close to or on it there would be no effect at all. I believe it is the steel/iron turning to austenite from martensite, if I remember what I read in an old metallurgy book I picked up in a car boot sale; It's a bit of an esoteric read! In years gone by, cattle bone was used to encase the small piece of steel to be hardened and tempered, so the carbon from the bone was soaked up by the steel when heated for several hours at a particular temperature, in effect 'case-hardening' the steel. It's amazing what we came up with many years ago. We humans are very inventive, yet very destructive.

My 2p worth. Thyme tea may be wonderful stuff. I'm a scientist at heart. I believe in the "Scientific method". I worry that people fall for the "Naturalistic fallacy" - just because something is "natural" they think it is better than something "processed". Nature is not cuddly and friendly. It is out to kill and consume you. I don't understand people who prefer a "raw" product, just because it is "natural". It may contain any amount of active/dangerous chemicals, possible poisons, carcinogens (as seen is some Chinese medicines) etc. I prefer 'real' medicine, where the active ingredients are identified and synthesized. It is rigorously tested to prove that it works (not just a placebo as a lot of 'alternative' medicine is), and is shown to be safe. I'll stick to the processed drugs thanks.

Hi all, this is the one I asked about opening the case a couple of days ago; I've just finished re-assembling it, its running well and looking quite nice. The strap is the one it came with, which is Gruen branded branded. It's a bit dried up but a couple of doses of Lexol should see to that. It just needed new spring bars as one had disintegrated and the other was too short. The case has some rough spots in the plating, such as the upper right strap lug, but nothing too obvious at a distance. I have sent enquiries to a couple of local platers to see if it can be refinished at a reasonable cost. I've not tried any electroplating yet and I'm going to start with nickel on another very badly worn one, originally chrome or nickel plated, rather than a gold one.

Did the movement and put it in the case just to make sure I could do the service. Was not happy as I did not have the hand so did not need to finish. When I found the hand I removed it and cleaned the case. Next is the crystal. I'm still learning. I have received a set of sanding sticks so used them.

There is a section in this Citizen technical manual that gives a breakdown of the number on the case back, plus a lot more useful info: https://www.plus9time.com/blog/2021/10/3/citizen-technical-information-manual-mid-1970s?rq=Citizen technical

Couldn't agree more. I haven't been here long but what I've seen and the help I've received has been brilliant. I believe Swiss meant IMHO. In My Honest Opinion

Yes, Mine has a support for the blade that can be safely hit like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-62841-Tradesman-Knife/dp/B0044D9MC6/ref=sr_1_37?crid=3HWJF1HL4J8D7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.X58oai8WcFho_-XqfR-lLQbU8lQKhf1vtFKAWbXR4EAhqVWR_eMy5h1DhaCULvkpA6XT0GaNFLHt_kJ0kPrhXFo0nYd8yJ4JgruoXDG9XjViAQOyAiBUkOhC9W9qQfGr0SMKpxIUrGOBkTjtTPTuM9IOTnb-dEAzbcZVvniVcEuMFGK9SITyDO6ryUU8ERkHt8f2Vy9Ks0QFO06KSJz65C2p7S3o2lOaUoO9kw61KyNtaaYYwdZzyuM2uRywODaigUn0u8RHMPR0dOa3WSrq8vE1iV5Et_561SFfvkhSGTQ.9QrdWVoCJpLVkrflNS1sxaY56ys4iiJspEFpUgLIRdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=stanley+knife&qid=1716289527&sprefix=stanley+knife%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-37 I use a brass hammer. You could use a very light pin hammer. A watchmaker's hammer would be a bit too light to use. I'm not sure of the weight, but looking at Cousins, it looks like a 60 or 84g brass hammer. I would go with the 84g one. A lot of the process is about feel, so you don't damage the case or bezel. Don't twist the tool! You may think it would make it easier and quicker, but that's when the damage starts to happen and be especially careful around the lugs. Once you have done a couple, you'll get a feel of it. Some bezels feel like they're not coming off and you start to doubt what you are doing. The trick is to be deliberate in your actions, rather than tentative. If you perform this task with the total belief that the bezel is coming off, that is exactly what will happen. First, be totally sure that the bezel comes off in the way you expect. Rub the blade against a piece of 400 grit wet and dry until blunt

The best advice I received when starting watch repair was don’t force anything.. screws, lifting bridges etc etc.. The other vital skill is using tweezers without losing the part., for me never hold a part tightly and the tweezers must be dressed.

One I have and it's a French Strike on a bell with Garnish worth around £1,000. I'll take a photo of it tomorrow so you can see it.

When you are having fun restoring false economy exits via a window. Your time and money dont always matter Col , what does matter is that you breathed new life into something that was dead and destined for a scrap heap. That has to feel good doesn't it ? Some of my favourite watches to wear are my first attempts at repair. With a face that only its repairer can love , Rolexes pah !!! give me a Smiths pin pallet any day of the week.

I have this arriving on Wednesday... looking forward to picking it up.. I just love it on the blue. I cannot wait. Greg.

I remember dipping cherry steel into some kind of carbon powder at school to case harden it. And watched a video about annealing steel a few months ago when making my setting lever. The guy used a magnet to determine the steel's core temperature . Get a blow torch on them or you could really flip and use an oxy torch and melt those suckers.

The setting could have been silver plated? I doubt it would be solid silver. I initially tried various liquids for cleaning, with pretty mediocre results. Eventually I forked out for the gallon-size containers or L&R #111 cleaner and #3 rinse. That stuff, cold, at three to six minutes a stage in the ultrasonic, works superbly; the results are immaculate even on things that are disgustingly bad when they go in.

I decided to do a little improvisation last night. I had a case where the sides were extremely worn, dented, etc. The case lines were nearly worn completely down. I've wanted a lapping machine for some time but those are far too expensive for my humble budget. I improvised by hooking up one of my sanders to a voltage regulator to bring the speed down as much as I could. I put some 1000 grit paper on the disc and started to gently work the side of the case. I'm quite surprised at what I was able to accomplish with these rag-tag tools and bit of creativity. I'm limited by the table because it can only adjust to 45 degrees, so there are some angles on that case I won't be able to reach properly. While looking up pictures on the internet of other examples of this case it looks like there was not a sharp line between the side wall and the lugs, so I just tried to bring back a gentle curve between those to sides. Not too bad for my first attempt! I'm going to keep moving forward and go up to 2500 grit and see what I can get out of this before moving on to the polishing wheel.

OK, I fixed it. There was a combination of factors. First I bent the wings on the small, star like, battery contact to be a bit more erect and give a better contact. This is located within a thin plastic sheet that is snapped into place in a groove between the bridge and the main plate. Underneath this was the "switch" contact with a plastic end that moves with the yoke that turns the movement on and off. This had all got a bit displaced and was not moving with the yoke, so I carefully refitted the star contact and its plastic sheet and making sure that I could see the switch contact making good connection (you can see through a small hole on the dial side). Refitted the battery and off it went! The switch works fine to turn it off / hack the seconds but there is always a momentary pause, I guess as the magnetic field builds up when you start it up again. I am going to let it run for a bit and then regulate it. It appears to be running 30 sec per day fast at the moment.

That's great Col, i firmly believe once you have gained some knowledge you just have to jump in and crack on.

I'm just about to clean the parts of a Cal 684 which has a similar Winding Gear (#1464). I plan to clean it in my usual way (ultrasonic with Elma solutions) then dip in Lubeta V105. As for Epilame. The only parts I'll be treating are cap/pallet jewels and escapement wheel. I'm not splashing my precious fluids all over the place !

OK thank you a just want say thank you to everyone who replieded me on this web page when I needed help on this watchrepairtalk have learned so much even with the pallet adjustment a can do it now all thanks to you all been a very great help God bless you all.

@VWatchie I expect dunking it for a while in acetone will loosen it up, that being the main ingredient of nail varnish remover. Tom

OK Rich, may be You are just a little bit more worried than really needed. Who am I to say, jus a newbie here but... Such a big forum will not collapse in any case, exept if the people loose their interest to participate. If something happens to the owner, then senior members will be able to handle the forum. Let me show an example where one of the moderators of the russian forum (thow He was not russian), a man of great knowlage abd big heart, passed away in 2023. Thow His personal site is still working, the russians coppied the whole site to safe place here. I mean, all depends on the people and if they need to do something, they will find the way. Actually, the forum is place where people can meet and share. As a final measure, people can share their phone numbers and use Viber to comunicate, at least people who are interested to keep connection between each other.

Is that not be down to your age ?

Shipped back today....

Speaking of 404 reboot.... I have another category of watches... Those that I wished I had not gone above £4.04 when I bid for them!!! Someone probably should have also told me to stop before I put a new stem, crown, crystal, escape wheel and then adjusted the end shake on the escape wheel. This was all on watch that had a EB 8800 pin lever movement in a worn gold plated case with a snap on case back (basically everything I try to avoid!).

The problem is that this movements were not produced with the modern level of standartization, there for parts from one didn't fit well to another, even if they may look the same. May be it doesn't concern the winding stems, but yet there are not spare parts for such movements in supply companies, not even clear calibre identification possible. And where calibre identification is possible, there are no Ronda numbers for the balance staff or the winding stem for this calibers in the data bases.

Yes, Swatch, booooooooooo!!!

Despite having to change up your magnification and get your head into the super micro mech zone, I admit I'm not adverse to buying women's watches. You can finish up working on some good high end movements for a fraction of the price of men's. They also finish off that little black dress number and heels look on Saturday night outs. I would laugh but i have had some very odd Saturday nights out , ok go on then I'll laugh, i just made that up....ahem...

To be honest, they're not a good movement to have in a chronograph for several reasons. The first is the chronograph mechanism is a 'bolt on' module; If you look at the side of the watch case the crown won't be in line with the pushers, therefore only the branded company would have the ability to swap out the module because they aren't designed to be serviced and definitely not by an independent watchmaker. Secondly, the ETA 2892 A2 is a great movement, but when the chrono module is used with it it becomes pants, in my opinion/experience. So, going back to your watch. The problem isn't with the base movement, which is the 2892A2, as there would never be that amount of backlash/flutter in the gear train of that particular movement, it is with the chrono bolt on module that the problem lies and when the chrono sweep second hand is engaged the flutter of the second hand is remedied by the stability of the chronograph mechanism negating that flutter. Everything in the chronograph mechanism of that movement is powered by a wheel in the centre where the cannon pinion/driving wheel would normally be. I think it is a crappy design deliberately engineered to be disposable due to the time taken to service the module. Give me a 7750 any day!

I state Yorkshire because nobody has any idea where Hull is. Welcome Greg, i tend to only answer my wife when she says something watch realated to me, like " will you come off that bloody forum " . Strangely enough she is also a member of our group, i think that is only to make sure I'm behaving .

Just added this to my quote book!

I think they all have their pros and cons, the one I suggested is a threadlock loctite product (Loctite is now owned by Henkel), In general I use the current one that is recommended on their Loctite page (link here) I use blue (243) for the actual crown the (stick is actually 248 which is the stick version of 243), like I said it is very convenient for using on stems. Blue holds the crown for everyday use, but can be removed if you need to with a little heat. I use the red 277 for things like stem extensions where I have no intention of ever removing it. The purple I don't use (but I have seen some youtubers use it) as I think the blue is removable so why take the risk on a weaker product. This is interesting, and a useful bit of information to know

attached is the tech /parts sheet. . Can one ask how come it’s full of water. After being told that the waterproofing was not guaranteed. Problem being electronics don’t mix especially withe the power source being attached. You may be lucky but I should look out for a replacement movement or working donor to rob the movement from. C720.pdf