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I've used expanding foam for lots of things but i thinķ you got me on that one.

This happened to me several years ago when I first got my barrel closing tool. In my eagerness to try out my new tool, I closed the cap without the arbor. I don't quite remember how I opened it. I might have used compressed air to pop the cap off. I sometimes use compressed air to open those "sealed" Seiko barrels.

Welcome @Boggie46. I would encourage you to take a little time to learn the terminology of watch parts, e.g., "winder rod" is the "stem." It will help us to help you. I am curious as to how you removed the center seconds wheel.

Put the arbor in the barrel in the correct direction and look at the hook of the arbor. It will show You the direction of the spring.

I do believe in one of the manuals I saw for the 2892 DD module, you could unscrew it from the 2892, and submerge the whole thing in your cleaning machine as a single unit. I havent tried that yet, but when I was having issues with my Omega 1140, I got lucky and found a brand new one in Poland, and ordered that. So, if someone needs parts from an 1140 Omega/2892, I have the chronograph module in my parts bin, although its disassembled.

They showed up! It's a perfect fit. Can't wait to populate it and try it out.

Lubed up, back together (minus the one screw), and I'd say not a bad result! Going to give it a day or two to run in while I clean up the case and regulate it again, but off to a good start.

So it runs and keeps good time even with that train wheel. You are lucky I would point out to the owner about the wheel, just in case at some point they take it to a different clock maker.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. As they are screws to hold links it is possible they are false and do nothing. Already said photos are needed.

Hi New. More of a get you out of a hole than a bodge. There is no substitute for a new coil.

Hello and welcome to the forum. Enjoy

Hi Zannuto.it on the net have one got €16 . 40. From Italy ithink

Hi and welcome to the forum.. I take it you have held the opposite end tight and the business end is just turning , yes. If so sounds much like stripped threads, the screws might need cutting out and a new bar and screw fitting . But as clockboy said pictures please it makes life just that bit easier.

Hello and welcome to the forum. Attached a little reading TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

Please post some photos then I am sure we can help.

Cousins don't stock it any more, but this is from their site Then put the size and features in to their search function https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/watch-movement-search-match-by-ligne-size you may be able to find a matching movement

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

hello everyone, I am a new enthusiast of fine mechanics and I come to your community to learn more. I completed the complete watchrepairchanel course, which I greatly appreciated. I'm starting a small collection of divers, new and old (benarus worldiver, yema superman, seiko skx, hamilton frogman...) and I also bought some old movements and equipment, in order to start operating with an open heart. please excuse my somewhat limited English but I'm French and it's a bit cultural for us... Thank you for your welcome and see you soon

Hello everyone, I have a little problem with my watch which has a Miyota 6m17 gmt movement. I wanted to know, apart from dismantling it and replacing it, if there is a mechanical movement of the same size that would be compatible (same diameter of the movement and hands)? thank you in advance for your help.

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

Hello all I am trying to get some links taken out of my watch and the teeny screws just spin, any ideas on how to get them out? Any help or advice appreciated. Many thanks Steph Prime

Welcome to the forum, enjoy. I have a varimatic that went out of sequence because it’s hydronic oil ran very low. Must admit it’s still in my garage just know time to fix it. Purchased a cheap Indian Junta/ sonic Pearl as a stop gap a few years ago and it still performs perfectly so no incentive to fix the Varimatic.

The plate is OK, thanks. It seems the answer to my question is that this is a 'hack' & for me another reminder that in general, one won't be the first person to be tinkering with an old timepiece!. As you day, I've been fortunate to have gotten some good advice and, just as important, encouragement. I've been lucky then not to have the balance spring break as a result of my novice 'ministrations' - but I did remember to 'stroke' rather than bend per se. The clock is of sentimental value to the owner so I'm relieved to have now got it running to time with the support & encourage of forum members like yourself.

Recently purchased a L&R Varimatic knowing that the piston does not fully rise in the cylinder. The likely cause is air in the system. The manual calls for using a bleeder cup, which is as rare as hen's teeth.Does anyone have any experience with this issue and if so, how did they resolve it?

Thanks ww, its maybe not as much of a bodge trick that i thought it was.