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  2. It was the wrong pipe size for the pivot. I gave it a gentle squeeze until it gripped just enough to hold the hand in place. I can also take some pictures and try to show the wear I mentioned.
  3. I was going to say the soldering on the back of the dial looks like something I would of done when I was 13 with my dads electrical soldering iron, and the dial does not look square with the base, but they have both been commented on. The pendulum rod looks ultra fine too, which I'm guessing is correct,but what diameter rod is used?
  4. Hello Mark, Neat set up.Thanks for sharing Have a great holliday.
  5. I have to agree with the previous speakers it seems this piece have met the floor at some stage and been fixed by a Quick and Dirty method. the left side is all of center with the right from top to toe only the stand is uniform. Just out of curiousity, how common was it to solder the dial on like that, i understand by the looks of the work it wasn't a very good repair but still was it common practice?
  6. Not long been back from Thailand. Love the place. Been 3 times now. Did Island hopping, lot of sea fishing - fresh fish with Thai food every day. The fish we caught we gave excess to t he locals and t he hotel chef cooked meals for 4 for 300Bhat. Cool! Have a great holiday Mark.
  7. Ditto, the key holes. The back of the frame/dial is rather crudely made, in comparison to the movement. Bod
  8. Right away I see the key holes are not in line and the movement doesn’t look in line with the case. Looking at the back plate, it all looks out of line. But is it the photos that are causing this.
  9. JDM.. Hehe.. To appreciate others you can use the like button on the bottom right of any posting.
  10. A few weeks ago this clock arrived at the clock shop, they had been cleaning it with Brasso, a no-no on gilt clocks. The fly had a pin broken off, and a few bushes were needed, these French clocks pinions are rock hard, well diamond hard, so I fitted a brass bush like collar that fixed it up without trying to drill the dam thing. Anyway back to the Brasso thing, as you see it was a mess and a lot of the gilt was rubbed away, not a bother on a normal French clock that is not worth much, however I could see this was a goody so I did some research on' Valliant a Paris' and this guy was a master clockmaker between 1750's and 1810's. I found a few of his clocks and they sell for big money from 16,000 euro up. When the customer came to pick it up the front desk gave them a note I had done and they had no idea about who or what it was and then asked him how they should clean it, he came and asked me and I said, tell them "by bringing it back in about 5 years time for a service". Now the clock itself has a flaw, have a look and see if you can pick it.
  11. The needle was just to give the idea. The amount of heat a body can contain depends on its mass. Needle hold little heat, therefor heats up to glow and cools down quicky, a nail holds more heat, or a scrap screwdriver with the tip sharpend to get in the groove. Sorry for failing to mention this the first time.
  12. You did the right thing. Hi jeff, Welocme.
  13. A recently serviced 7750 with a broken mainspring should raise an eyebrow or two, I would have made a complete overhaul while being at it. You can access it from the back but the amount of junk you have to take away makes it not worth for example leaving stuff on the train Wheel bridge to cut some work. I guess you already got the service manual but I attache it here anyway just for the public interest 7750 Service Manual.pdf
  14. Looks promising but my worry would be there durability. Having said that the cost of these would make them attractive for hobbyists. More R&D required.
  15. To get to the root of the cause, you may have to disassemble . But before you do that, I gather this is a replacement sweep hand? What is the movement make and caliber and are you sure this is the correct size sweep hand for the movement. If the watch is running steadily while the sweep hand stutters and there is no tension spring, then the seep second pipe is either the wrong size, or it was squeezed onto the pivot....can you provide more info?
  16. You'll have to disassemble and troubleshoot to get to the root of the cause. Can you take a picture of the area you've mentioned? J
  17. Well, I tried the heated needle trick for an hour or so, but maybe got through 4 minutes of crystal edge removal. If I had 2 full work days to do it, and wasn't occasionally skipping out of the groove and scratching the rhodium, I'd have continued with that. There was no getting it to spin towards removal, as it was well glued down. However, with the movement not cooperating with its resurrection, and the eons it might take to remove what was left behind of glue and plastic, I decided to go the nuclear option. What I couldn't tell, is how the rhodium reflector was held in. There was a very small space at the bottom that a razorblade might have fit it. However, with the way things (needles and screwdrivers) were scratching that rhodium, I decided that this too was a bad idea. So I broke out the acetone. I knew that acetone worked well with the plastic beads used for preserving fossils, FWIW. I figured that it would eventually break down the acrylic crystal and glue, so I gave it a long soak. Unfortunately, there were some stripes that were painted on. They added to the interesting look of the watch, so I was sorry to lose them. They had looked like they were actually recesses formed in the rhodium. That's what fooled me. Well, after that long soak, both the rhodium reflector and what was left of the crystal and glue came out nicely. I'm not happy about losing those white lines, but it really was ridiculous to have to melt the plastic away a millimeter at a time as each needle becomes a little softer with heat. If I had it to do over again, I would probably try to get a razor blade or Exacto under the reflector to see if it would pop out. That way the white lines would be intact. Another thing one might attempt is using a heat-gun on the case, getting it very hot, but not glowing, and seeing if it softens the glue and plastic enough to get it out. Bear in mind that case will be very hot, so use something to insulate yourself from burn pain. This particular Wittnauer case number is #6519. So if you ever get to do a crystal replace on it, you might consider using the X-acto. Just be careful, as it could easily slip and scratch the rhodium and/or slice your body part. Cheers.
  18. I found some additional information you might find useful. Then on page 7 of the PDF it talks about the application. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/files/security_sheet/tinf_8980-8981-8982_fixodrop_es-bs_en.pdf https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=fixodrop BHI The Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches Version 2008.0.pdf
  19. Yesterday
  20. Yup. Afraid everything needs to come apart to access the barrel. Back AND front.
  21. Hi, Thanks for the information, most interesting and useful information. I purchased through a Watchmaker moebius 8981.
  22. Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
  23. I don't think you are mad, but you are pretty close! it didn't cost an arm and a leg, you will fix it and give it the beauty treatment. It will be a nice clock for little money. Also it will teach you much, no I don't think you are mad.
  24. Hi Jeff and welcome to the asylum, once in you can never get out, but then again you would have to be mad to want to leave.
  25. Need to change the mainspring on a 7750 . Do i need to take the complete movement apart. Was some times since working on a valjoux and i have forgot how it's is . The movement should be serviced recently said the owner. But it won't wind with the rotor . I looked and i can feel that the mainspring jumps when winding manually. Have had the reverse wheel out but that didn't help. Don't want to take the complete movement apart with the hands and such if i don't have to. Would be great if i just can remove the parts inside the case. But is that possible on a 7750. Or is the chronograph parts in the way and need to be removed.
  26. I wouldn't mind a tutorial, and judging by what's out there it would be helpful to the community as a whole. I have a decent idea at how keyless works go and I'm pretty sure I'm putting it together right but I wouldn't mind a second opinion. I'd also want to see spring position on the date ring keeper on the opposite side from the keyless. Just in case I'm not getting it right. And thanks for the oil advice. It seems hard to find. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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