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  2. Forgot to add when I clean the parts I use mesh compartment trays. But in the beginning I used mini glass vials filled with cleaning fluid and each one was numbered and I also numbered the compartments of the tray. So each tray section would correspond with the glass vial. I still use this method today when dealing with an unfamiliar movement. But if you have disassembled and reassembled enough movements you kinda start to just know where everything goes, kinda like when you move to a new town you don’t know where everything is, you use gps a few times get to know your area and grid, then you just know.
  3. Today
  4. I know some very old books mention using gasoline for cleaning, but these were written when gasoline was a very different animal regarding additives (and folks were a little more carefree about safety). I think something like Coleman fuel is close to old timey gasoline; camp stoves that are made to run Coleman fuel will have problems with gasoline (except models made for both), mainly due to clogging issues. When I needed Coleman fuel here for my old U.S. made stove the old man at the chemist shop said to use regular benzine, which I have on hand in the workshop for---- cleaning parts. Works great.
  5. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  6. That's a nice story! What did your daughter get?
  7. Hi! Thanks for the reply. I did release the power, but I think the pivot snapped during disassembly cause I knocked the escape wheel with the tweezers.
  8. 8215 isnt the easiest to put back together as there are too many pivots to line up. Takes a lot of patience. Also did you remember to release the power before disassembly? That's how I snapped the escape wheel pivot on one of mine. The click isnt the easiest to find. Pretty easy to overlook.
  9. As we all know, our world has been deeply shaken. Lifestyles, routines and every partXa,a of our lives have been effected in some way. This is equally true for our children. Their academic and social life's have also been upended. As a father of 4 who range in age from 15 to 24 this new reality is all too acute. My youngest two are still in high school with one a freshman and one a sophomore. They have been pretty much on their own with getting their online classes up to date and completed. My daughter, who is also my youngest, has been on task the entire time, she had finished her work last week. My 17 year old son has procrastinated much of the entire time. 4 weeks ago he was in danger of flunking. So, as an incentive, I offered to get him his favorite watch which is a duplicate of mine if he finished with at least a C average in each class. In this case, it's a 1978 Timex Falcon Eye. Thankfully I had found one for an absolutely fantastic price, a steal to be honest. When it arrived, it was pristine! Tonight was his final night. The final assignments were due. He plugged away and by 9:45pm, he crossed the finish line! And as required, no class was below a C grade point average. In fact, only one was a C, the rest were comfortably within B and A averages. I'm very proud of him and it was a Thrill and an honor to present his watch to him. For fun, I had him put on his new watch but told him he was trying on my watch to see how victory feels. He was all smiles and kept saying how awesome the watch is. Then I held up mine on my wrist and put it next to his and said, yep, it's almost as cool as mine! He was like, What!? Is this mine? No way! He was so excited! Totally worth the wait. Here they are, two of the finest original 1978 Timex Falcon Eye's you'll likely ever see!
  10. Pictures don’t always help so I always use these compartment trays, these I get from a hobby store in the paint section. But Esslinger sells nice ones with lids....each piece I remove goes into one compartment with its respective screws. Each compartment represents a step. When i reassemble I work backwards. As far as a bridge that uses different length screws you can always attach the bridge and look from the sides and tell where longer screws will go. Or by seeing where they screw in from under. Kinda hard to explain but just observe and you will get the picture.
  11. Hi Everyone! I have been practicing watch servicing these past months. So far I have successfully serviced a ST36 (ETA6497 clone), thanks to Mark's watch repair course which is awesome! I have also tried to service a NH25A, and messed up the hairpsring (replacement on the way), and a Miyota 8215. Everything was going well with the 8215 until I reassembled the train bridge and noticed that the escape wheel wobbles when I turn the wheels. My guess is that I accidentally broke off the upper pivot during cleaning. I was looking for a replacement escape wheel and found it at Cousin's, but they are out of stock. Anyone know any other place I could get one? Thanks. PS: Trying to keep a positive attitude after messing up two movements, but practice makes perfect. :)
  12. Don't think of it as math so much as relationships. F=KX is (F) Force equals (K) spring k/constant times (X) displacement. You're only really worried with how they relate to each other, not anything more precise. If you multiply numbers together, the result is bigger; if you divide them, the result is smaller. The end. Force is exactly what you think it is. Displacement is a fancy word for distance. The spring k/constant is how stiff the spring is. For watchmakers, the important part here is that we can split apart the mainspring into component parts of stiffness (*) and distance (effective length; effective, because it's typically preferred that a spring is never fully wound or unwound for better isochronism). * Stiffness in a mainspring is typically a function of its thickness, but if you have a really old coil mainspring vs a modern S spring, or an old school spring steel vs a modern alloy, or maybe the spring has set, these can all play a part. The gear ratios in a gear train are fixed. For every release of the escapement, a certain degree of rotation of the mainspring barrel is unwound from the mainspring. That makes analysis even easier, because X is constant per beat. You simply get more X with a longer spring in the form of more beats. Assuming everything else is in proper fettle, you have a finite amount of room in the mainspring barrel into which you can stuff a spring. That stuffing happens across the dimensions of length, and thickness; dimensions that correspond directly with X and K respectively. If it's too strong, the balance over banks, and you gotta problem. Additionally, but to a lesser degree, if your amplitude is higher than is required for isochronism, it's really not doing you any good, and is just a waste of spring. Too weak, and amplitude is low, and error creeps in (anisochronism). So you need a spring that is stiff enough to get you a good enough amplitude to ensure isochrony, but otherwise as long as you can to maximize power reserve. If everything else is good, then you add a new mainspring which measures .007 thicker and feels harder (aka stiffer or higher K) and is .05 shorter (lower X), that's the precise recipe, according to Hooke's law, for a good amplitude but short power reserve. You made K larger, and X smaller, you just don't know the precise magnitude of each change... You can see through your amplitude that F is larger than would be expected for a given distance of mainspring travel since, per swing of the balance, X is fixed, that means K is higher than it should be. You can further see through the short power reserve that the overall X of the spring is shortened. 312° is a really high amplitude; probably higher than just about any manufacturer requires for isochronistic reasons... On top of that, It sounds like Citizen kinda sucks for documentation, but they seem to be in the same school as Seiko who is good with documentation, and is known for preferring unusually low amplitudes while still achieving reasonable isochronism. Given that the point of a high amplitude is to mitigate anisochrony, they're going at the isochronism problem from a different angle (whatever that is, I don't know yet). I would shoot for a typical Seiko level amplitude, see how the power reserve comes out, then check isochronism against your preferred/available of spec or personal standard. This has nothing to do with braking grease, internal barrel features, bridle wear, or anything else. Just the isolated variables as described. Also worth noting, this is how Roger Smith (George Daniels' protegé) chooses mainsprings for his highly esteemed movements according to... him in his own lectures**. Also also worth noting... I'm about as nooby a noob that ever noobed, so consider the entire manifesto above in that light. Bottom line: Get a new mainspring that's thinner and longer. Since the alloy appears to be different, you may go more than a single step thinner, and see how long you can go and still functionally fit in the barrel. This, again, is inferred from the Roger Smith lecture, and he specifically states that he has a huge assortment of mainsprings at his disposal**, so YMMV. **I think this is the lecture, but it's not exactly the key focus, and was really just a side note at some point... I don't remember where in the hour and change it came up or why, I'm just one of those people who remembers trivial details like that...
  13. yep, they are not easy to come by.
  14. Main spring cleaning depends upon whose literature you're looking at. For instance Omega has a technical document on recycling mainspring barrels as they call it. They only wiped the mainspring down with a cloth no cleaners Or solvents. They're assuming that it Is a original mainsprings still has the dry somewhat invisible lubricant on its and that's why they just wipe it. At least that's what I'm assuming because there really really clear on no solvents were cleaners. If I'm doing a watch which is typically is a pocket watch and if I'm going to reuse the mainspring because it's an really beautiful nice condition then I just wipe it with a cloth with a solvent because it usually has sticky grease on it. So I typically never clean mainsprings in the ultrasonic. If the mainspring is an original blued steel spring Hulk still clean those with a cloth in a solvent but once their clean it put a thin coating of oil and/or grease on them. The Elgin watch company had a interesting document to why mainsprings break and they implied micro fractures due to rust. I tend to think poor manufacturing skills or not understanding things but steel mainsprings definitely do not like rust.
  15. I think memory is less important than understanding. If you understand what the part does, then you should be able to figure out where it goes. Having said that, taking notes and pictures will help, both with the understanding, as you learn, and with those situations where it is less than obvious what goes where. I recently took apart a Sekonda with date complication. I've taken apart and re-assembled several of these recently, and every time I do so, I can't for the life of me remember which way round one of the springs goes. I'm not sure what this proves, maybe Its an age thing, or maybe, and more likely, its because I don't actually remember every part of every movement, but actually figure most of it out based on experience. As it happens I also have pictures of that particular movement, and there are others on line, so the issue doesn't cause me any grief. If you have any doubt about a particular assembly or disassembly step. Stop and think.You will save yourself a lot of time in the long run, if you take the time to think. If you can't figure it out, ask. There are no daft questions, but there are many people too daft to ask questions.
  16. It probably would be beneficial to get the heated one, I guess I could find other uses for it, not just cleaning watch movements. I’m somewhat concerned about the size 0.8 litre. Definitely plenty for watch parts but I am not sure how mainsprings are placed into the baskets. Looking at the baskets for the proper watch cleaning machines they are 64mm in diameter so I’m guessing I shouldn’t have any problems with the smaller beakers that fit into the smallest S10H which are 81mm in diameter. A basket intended for a watch cleaning machine (Elma) would fit. I watch many videos on YouTube and now and again I see watchmakers inserting watch parts into the baskets but I have never seen one with a mainspring hence I have no idea how I’d do it myself. I am guessing mainsprings go into watch cleaning machines? Would I be regreting it later for some reason not getting a larger ultrasonic bath?
  17. gasoline has no place for watch cleaning. it can be used for paint thinner with enamel, it can be used as a first clean on a clock mvt., (the clock will run when submerged in gasoline). then wash it off with a garden hose. AND don't smoke around gasoline. vin
  18. Yesterday
  19. Ultrasonic machines are kinda strange in that my original little one lasted 20 years or more having a beaker in it which everyone says is evil and bad and yet it worked beautifully. I even remember finding a replacement unit looked identical can't remember where I got it from and it just didn't work. but one of the problems of older electronics is the electrolytic capacitors don't last forever. Then I was happy a friend housecleaning got rid of the bigger ultrasonic unit that I'm using. Which does have the advantage of much more intense ultrasonic energy. The watch cleaning fluid seemed to work just fine at room temperature I'm not sure I want even think about how well it is going to work If the solution is hot. Whether you have the heat or not depends upon how fast you want to do things? So you wouldn't use it for the watch cleaning but what if you were cleaning the bands Or case? For instance we have several of this company's products where I work. For cleaning the metal straps on watches the heat really does speed things up. But if you weren't in a rush that's not going to be an issue.
  20. The band arrived for the Timex LED, so I swapped back to that today, but I wore the Seiko in the garden as I was afraid I might put a scratch on the Timex, which would be a pain, given how much time I spent cleaning and polishing the thing.
  21. I was thinking about your original question of how do we remember where everything fits we don't. Watch repair is all about practicing continuous practicing lots of practicing. Taking marks course just gets you started you still need lots of practice the definition of lots of practice is your entire life. Learning watch repair is not something you learn overnight. Then it's really really helpful to understand what every single component in the Watch is for and how the watch Works. ideally you should have really good problem-solving abilities. Because unfortunately With watch repair that's going to be required. Because as pointed out above even if you took photographs you may find that others perhaps didn't put the watch back together the way it was supposed to go together. Or things don't work and you're going to have to figure out why they don't work or why the? Then today with cameras take lots of pictures of everything if you've never seen it before photograph it. If you never look at the pictures again that's fine but it's always nice to know you had a picture of anything that bothers you. Then if you're into note taking do that. Then if you're really enthusiastic I would keep a journal of every single watch you do. Especially if there are other your own personal watches. That way years From now you can go back and look at what you did To the watch how it's running now choices you made especially for lubrication Like was that a good choice for that lubrication or maybe it's a bad choice. Then cousins is very good for tech sheets. But as a reminder not every single watch will have a tech sheet Then in case you're curious about my answer of we don't remember is because those of us who've worked on a lot of watches can assemble a watch that we've never seen before. If you understand what all the basic components are how they look how they go together for the most part we don't have to memorize we just know where everything goes. But we also recognize when you should have a picture and feel annoyed when we don't have a picture.
  22. The original question relates to use of gasoline (petrol) and whether or not it will dissolve/soften shellac. A good question. Not mentioned is the use of stoddards, which is the lion share of some expensive proprietary watch and clock cleaning solutions. Stoddards is fine with shellac. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I'm unable to download the Time zone pdf unfortunately? Also is there a resource for tech Sheets or is it a Google job? I'm aware that Cousins have quite a few available
  24. I take a few pics and and make notes such as if screws are either reverse thread or longer than others. However the more you repair watches the less references are needed.
  25. Hi all again, minor update. I've managed to remove the crystal and hands without incident. However, with the 2 x case screws removed (pictured removed at 12 and 6 o'clock in the picture), and the crown stem removed, but after pushing rather hard, the movement still won't budge! Is it possible I'm missing something obvious?
  26. I was a one watch guy before but then I stumbled across another watch forum. Bought my first vintage watch, and one became several quite fast. I have a little workshop and manage to get some old non working watches to work. Now I'm trying to go deeper and learn more. Found this forum through Marks videos. All the best and stay healthy!
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