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  2. I received the extractor Horetec screw drivers from Esslinger but the tips are too small for the screw head. They’re almost pointed, they’re so small. What part of the screw should be measured in order to specify the correct extractor screw driver, the width of the shank, the diameter of the head, the height of the screw? I know this should be elementary but I haven’t had to do this before. Thanks in advance for your help. Correction: “Horofix”, not Horotec. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yesterday
  4. There was talk tonight at a club I attend of possibly buying a 3D printer. I can think of movement holders and parts trays as obvious choices, but what else might one be useful for in a modern watch workshop? Also if anyone has any experience of them and has 'must haves' and 'must avoids' lists that'd be great!
  5. Have you checked the second hand so it's not slipping on the tube or on the pivot. Seen some where the tube on the hand is a little loose.
  6. Sometimes I assume to much. I will give myself a slap in the face.
  7. I'm off to bed now. I'll give you the answer tomorrow.
  8. Found a good thread on WUS - acidic comments by a certain anti-social character aside. https://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/tissot-powermatic-80-problems-3036370.html Note at some point "benzine", that is, petroleum ether, is written as "benzene", which is a typical mistake of English speakers.
  9. I have two Helm watches and they are very well made. I passed on the Komodo due to it's size. (40MM is small for me.) I did ask Mark Helm if he had plans for a larger version. He has always been responsive to emails. RMD
  10. More to this. The C07, as the OP picture shows, has plastic (better said, synthetic material) escapement. Now, despite the pattern seems to be OK, it possible I think, that the machine can't compute amplitude correctly. 160° seems way too low indeed. Was that before disassembly?
  11. Why always the suggestion of using something that contains oils, perfume, and other contaminants, especially on an high precision modern mov't that's not what you want. For an hydrocarbon type of cleaner, petroleum ether should be used. Then regarding plastic parts, even if they are resistant to most chemicals, aggressive cleaning is rarely needed. Personally I would use Isopropylic alchool (IPA). I could not find online a technical sheet for the C07 (Powermatic 80). Probably so far the Swiss have been able to limit distributions to authorized centers. However since the mov't is a straight derivative of the 2824-2, I would use that as start reference, and attached it here. _C_T_CT_2824-2_FDE_481688_24.pdf
  12. That assumes the OP has a watchmaker's lathe, and the ability of using it. I think if that was the case he wouldn't have asked in first place.
  13. I am trying to get an old pocket watch running for a neighbour of mine. It has Louis Eschholz Gotha inscribed in the case, which would make it easily 100 years old. As you can see, there is a key for winding and setting. Here's the partially disassembled movement, still in the case until I worked out how to remove it. It's got a cylinder escapement, so there was an exciting moment when I removed the balance. What would have been the correct let the mainspring down? Luckily no damage was done, so I got everything stripped down completely except for the barrel and bridge assembly. Any suggestions how I should proceed? Unfortunately the stop work is incomplete.
  14. Thanks again for all your help. I took the clean in situ option and with a second clean in the ultrasonic then wicking dry got it clean. Was too chicken to try bending the tabs. I didn't fancy using pegwood. I really cannot get a sharp enough point. Maybe I'll ask for tips in a separate thread. Also I was worried about flakes and breakage, as per Nucejoe's comment. Anyway, here's a picture of the finished article. I wore it today and it loses a few seconds, but that's OK as I'll not be wearing it often.
  15. Hi Manodeoro, all I can do is wish you all the best !
  16. Have you tried the suppliers? What you have is a five bar cylinder Swiss movement. If you can’t get a jewel, you could fit a brass bush.
  17. Just downloaded. OH, you area a life saver! Thanks you! Best, RMD
  18. Not the best suggestion I'm sure, but if all else fails you can buy an assorted lot of jewel holes and spend an evening picking up each and every one, trying it for size, then discarding it in the slowly receding hope of finding "The One".
  19. This subject has previously been covered, Endsrones limit the staffs axial play thence all else including very important impulse jewel stays within bound, further pivot rests on endstone instead of pivot shoulder. You can remove endstones to clean, peg and oil. Put some penetrating oil on the two little screws, let sink in over night, unscrew the next day. Regards joe
  20. I generally have a beard but touch up with the straight razor, it's gotten to where I don't even bother with the strop most times, I just strop on my thigh... how's that for manly!
  21. Well, with body piercings, ear gauges, etc., being all the rage, it's natural that the world would gravitate towards old-style self-mutilation with such implements . My face is too precious , and my Mach (?) provides the easiest, smoothest shave ever. Preciousness is something it's hard to put a price on.
  22. Hello, everyone! A watch that I have been working on, needs a third wheel bridge jewel. It's a very old watch, so I guess there is going to be problem with finding something suitable. Anyway, if you can offer a suggestion or two, I'd be very happy to listen. Picture below. Thanks.
  23. Thank you @rogart63 , for sending me the escapewheel. I will pass on three winding stems and three staffs to forum members in appreciation of your generosity.
  24. "safety" razor blades are still available AND, there were several types of "hand crank " sharpeners made. thou i use a bic razer, there are many uses for those blades, including opening a watch case. vin
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