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By AdamC
Hello,
I am attempting to service an old H. Williamson pocket watch movement and hit an obstacle before I even started. I know I'll need to disassemble the balance in order to oil the non-shock end stone but having watched one of Mark's newer videos advising on the danger of removing the end stone mounting screws while the balance cock is mounted, I'm wary of doing this. However, with the Breguet hairspring held to the cock with with its own screw-retained "carrier cock" (holding the pinned hairspring) instead of a stud carrier, also top-mounted, I don't know what's riskier? As you can see, this old 1918 movement is a work of art in itself and I'd hate to mess it up. My concern is also how I'd manage to reassemble the hairspring to the balance cock safely after servicing.
Do any of you know the safest "best practice" for disassembling and re-assembling such a balance please?
Thanks,
Adam
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By thecodedawg
I recently acquired an Illinois pocket watch that appears to have a screw on front and back. I was able to unscrew the front with great effort. A lot of dirt and grime dropped out. I need to get the back off. There are no grab points so, I have tried a rubber ball and failed. If it was a bolt, I would use heat, but that’s not an option. I am afraid to use penetrating oil for fear of damaging the porcelain face. I am assuming that the watch is in the 100 year old range but won’t know until I get the serial number off the movement.
it is clear, the case has not been opened in a very long time.
What is the best way to open it?
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By GoMSUSpartans
Looking for advice. Daughter (7) bought me a pocket watch from a second hand store. The hunter case crown is missing a cap to open the front. It appears to be threaded. Essinger seems to have the right replacement part. I can't figure out how to get the stem and crown out. I think this is an old Belle Suisse 8810. Help? Also I know it is posted to wrong forum but this was the only non grayed out option.
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By AdamC
Hello,
I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job.
Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?
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By HardTop
Good day to you all.
I'm deciding to ask for help because I really can't manage it by myself.
For the life of me I cannot understand how to set the balance assembly back into position after having replaced a broken escape wheel.
I'm working on a Lanco/Tissot 782-1 movement, I had already removed/replaced the balance before and I haven't had any issue.
Now I just can't seem to get the balance oscillation working. The wheel seems to stick or isn't turning freely. I have spare parts and checked 2 or 3 different balances, I checked the staff & its pivot which are not broken, the roller jewel isn't broken either, the balance pivot hole is not clogged nor does it seem widened, and the pallet is in working order (I checked the escapement by arming the mainspring a couple of clicks then manually oscillating the pallet with a wood pick, everything runs perfectly).
So it seems the rest of the movement is okay, the issue lies with how to place the balance back into position. I checked lots of tutorials & videos, Mark's included and I'm always quite astonished when I see how watchmakers and repairmen handle the balance, even if the hairspring is fragile even professionals seem to handle that part somewhat roughly. I take the greatest care when manipulating that part (and others) but no matter how I set the wheel&pivot back, the movement doesn't seem to run.
Is there something I'm missing? Should the pallet be positioned specifically when replacing the balance? Should the roller jewel be placed in a specific setting versus the pallet fork as well? Everytime I tried before those things didn't seem to make a difference, so I'm really wondering what's wrong here, considering I tried several balances with different plates and different pallets, I can't understand where the issue is.
I guess my question is: as tutorials don't usually give out many details about how to lay a balance back down into the plate, what should I take into account and what are the exact right steps to perform to ensure the balance will run smoothly ?
Thanks for your help, I'm getting desperate here :-/
Laurent AKA HardTop
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I am cutting this for a chap in the US and the ones I have have a hole deep enough to accept the pivot; and two different size holes as well for 18s and 16/12S movement staffs.
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A minor wrinkle in this discussion? For which I won't have an answer until I go to work tomorrow perhaps. Do you know this tool comes in two different sizes sort of? It actually comes in more sizes it comes in various heights for the various staking sets. Then the hole diameter that the punch goes into comes in two different sizes. One for smaller watches and a bigger one for pocket watches. Problem is I can't remember if the punch is different sizes or whether they just have one of those?
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By watchweasol · Posted
. I Think the problem was succinctly explained by both posts, like all lubrication it opens up a dark hole. There are those who do , those that don't , those that will and those that wont. Two very good explanations. -
By watchweasol · Posted
Lubricate as normal, Innovations within the watch world like any other manufacturing industry take place because they either aid manufacturing or are easier to produce or produce a benifit to the watch or widget, It may have been experimental and produced on a short production line for evaluation.
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Question
Clackmae 0
Hi, I am very new to the hobby of watch repair/refurbishment and self taught thus far so please forgive any stupid questions! I recently stripped down, cleaned, oiled and reassembled a Waltham pocket watch (pictured) but the balance has poor oscillation, stops when tilted at a certain angle and the movement makes a noise in addition to the usual tick which sounds like something is hitting off something it shouldn't. I've stripped the movement down again and checked every part for signs of damage (finding none) and also replaced the mainspring which has improved things but there's still something off. Any ideas on what it might be would be much appreciated.
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