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The same tool will work on all sizes of balance. You sit the staff in the correct size hole in the staking set base. The tool them clamps the balance arms, and then the punch pushes the staff out. -
That's just it. I am actually looking to see if I can replace the second wheel on a Omega 3220 which uses the ETA 2892-A2 as it's base. The 3220 actually has a push fit chronograph driving wheel on the pivot rather than a second hand. Not certain that this would be a direct replacement but it could be worth a shot versus paying $150AUD for the Omega part. -
Yes, being lathe deprived is a problem that I have, so obviously interested in solutions that don't require one. The Balance Staff removers are interesting. I wasn't sure if you could get them in a size to suit a typical wristwatch movement, I thought they were more suited for pocket watch balances. I was surprised to see a staff just pushed out with a Horia tool but I guess if you get a very close fitting stump it would potentially do the same amount of damage as a remover (the only difference being that the remover seems to clamp down the cross arms of the balance immediately surrounding the staff). I did read somewhere that Rolex (who apparently recommend this) balance wheels are harder than others. This is maybe one to try on already scrap balance.
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Just checking terminology here. When a pivot is described as having a certain height is that measured from pivot tip to pivot tip or from the face of the wheel to the tip of the extended pivot? I have a bit of a strange one that measures closer from tip to tip but not from the wheel face to tip (I get 3.1mm from face to tip and about 3.6mm tip to tip when badly measured with my Vernier calipers)
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