Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This watch has been in my family for awhile, and this Christmas my grandfather passed it down to me! The watch runs, I looked up all the information I knew about it, but can’t seem to find an exact watch anywhere online. Can anyone help me out?

56679A68-32EE-4475-86A6-435E90625082.jpeg

09F4705C-A5E1-42A1-8769-55C5A494D6AA.jpeg

7B256349-A58F-4F39-8672-F138C3F80C12.jpeg

24CEEF30-6496-4F6F-80CE-E7C9B5851357.jpeg

F94C6BE1-A7F9-4BC6-9E20-562A7229DC57.jpeg

0D41F7AA-4D3E-4EE4-A302-5CE012535C16.jpeg

Posted

What you have is a counterfeit watch, made to look like a Colt Chrono Automatic A13335. Model-independent telltales are the poor engraving on the case back, premature plating wear, and many others. It has also been fitted with a wrong size strap. You can confirm by opening it to reveal an Asian movement, or posting on a specialized forum, like watchuseek.com, Breitling section.

Posted

 

16 minutes ago, jdm said:

What you have is a counterfeit watch, made to look like a Colt Chrono Automatic A13335. Model-independent telltales are the poor engraving on the case back, premature plating wear, and many others. It has also been fitted with a wrong size strap. You can confirm by opening it to reveal an Asian movement, or posting on a specialized forum, like watchuseek.com, Breitling section.

counterfeit is too good of a word. 

Posted

Based on the pics I would how said its legit.  If the stopwatch works it probably is legit as the Asian clones usually  have pusher operated sundials which shows stuff like do of the week,  24hrs etc. 

The case shows typical gold discoloration due to it being unsed.  A wipe with rough cloth should remove it.  The case back is deep but is not 'sharp',  fair enough as it has been used.  China clones usually have laser etched backs which are much shallower. 

Get it checked by a watchmaker and let us know. 

Anil

Posted
8 hours ago, anilv said:

Based on the pics I would how said its legit. 

How can be genuine when Breitling never did a quartz chronograph with that sundial arrangements or pushers style? Only mechanical chronological have that arrangement, but the faker had the decency of not placing 'automatic' on the dial.

That even without going into the general finish (you can zoom the hi res picture) which can be good for a $40 watch, not for a brand one.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...