Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Gents and ladies, I've got in my possession two memocall Alarm wrist watches, both in need of a service, I've done some well quite about of searching and have come up with a blank, I'm after if poss some direction to finding tech drawings for stripping down and servicing.

is there any available or am I going in blind, cheers for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found these pictures from another watch forum. They might help you. There is nothing complicated with this movement its pin pallet and inexpensive. If you can take photos as you dismantle it.  Here is a link about the movement. I'm sure we can help you if you get stuck.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Ronda_1223&

Movement.JPG

Alarm.JPG

Parts.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers gents, I have one with 17 jewels and the other with the straight old cheap jewels as shown in the photo, glad to have people with some knowledge at hand. 

The one thing I have noticed is that the alarm goes off at a different time to the set alarm time, I'm assuming this is just a hand placement problem? I'm away from home again at the moment and have the watches with me as I collected them on my, but no tools so cannot actually work in them at the moment ok .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To fix that, take the power down, remove all hands and wind the alarm, which is the bottom crown. Then you turn the upper crown clockwise until the alarm rings...That's where you place all the hands: the alarm indicator and the hour minute hands, at midnight. After that it should go off with the hour hand.

 

Joe

Edited by noirrac1j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, transporter said:

Wow cheers mate, and there I was thinking that I would find where the alarm rang and was going to re fit the hour hand inline with alarm one where the noise happened (not the best description but I know what I mean) .

You explained it well enough!  

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok guys full strip etc done, ive just tried to set the alarm as per the instructions in the other post but with power let down alarm wound then top crown rotated clockwise until alarm sounds a fix all hands to midnight and I then reset the alarm and quick set the hands but the alarm going off doesn't corrosion to when the hour hand is moved to it.

Any ideas as to what the problem might be?.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you trying with the dial removed? Set the alarm and watch the action. I don’t think the spring is releasing the hammer when it should do, in which case you will need to bend the release spring a tiny fraction, don’t do it too much as this can cause the alarm to go off at the wrong time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Transporter,

Check the hour hand gear with the pop-up notches--this is the gear that sinks when the alarm gear corresponding cutouts align.

DSCN3034.thumb.jpg.104195731af98f1566095e8bd2df9961.jpg

DSCN3035.thumb.jpg.f8224f84d8da07b999b024c21d09dad3.jpg

If these two look OK, then look at he alarm release lever like @oldhippy suggested. Sometimes this has to be bent a little to that it releases the gear:


DSCN3037.thumb.jpg.6b33973a2c01ccf1e747e078e3cbbadf.jpg

As you can see, the lever has dimples to keep it raised up during the non-alarm phase, when it reaches the grooves, it drops down and releases the gear that engages the alarm hammer and it rings. Scrutinize these parts.

J

 

 

DSCN3036.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
photo edits
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nearly got it set, had a real good look at the alarm train , bent the lever a little but not too much as it was given to me as a non runner so unsure if alarm was functioning ok before. 

On the alarm hand wheel with the cut out outs, do the raised bits on the hour wheel underneath need to be in the cut outs during assembly or does it not matter?

I have it together at the moment just testing it, at the moment the alarm goes off 5 mins before it should, the about 10 mins before it should, ive currently got it set for 15.00hrs it's now saying 14.53hrs so im wondering if it will chime on time.

Is there a particular sequence etc that the alarm side needs to be assembled in, ie the cut outs etc etc on the arm wheel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When the alarm goes off, it only goes off the once. Then fit all the hands to 12, doing it this way you will know the hands are aligned correctly to the numbers on the dial. Re set the alarm hand to 3, wind the alarm spring up, set the hands to 3 and the alarm should go off. Repeat this until you are satisfied the alarm is correctly working. If the alarm goes off before the hour then you need to adjust the spring that stops the hammer a little more.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old hippy, many thanks again mate, I shall get on with it again this evening.

I've started to strip and clean the other one to see if can see any major differences, the one so far is the height of the spring, so that's my starting point after I've re done what's been said before for setting the alarm up correctly, I shall as always keep everyone informed as to my progress 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
×
×
  • Create New...