Jump to content

Hi guys anyone replaced the crystal on a citizen promaster? Where could I source one or a sapphire equivalent?

Airoh108

By Airoh108
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

No need to replace, you can easily polish the original. Use the search box top right.

Sapphire for divers that are not popular can't be found, because they are thicker than the generic available, or are beveled, etc.

  • Like 1
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, rogart63 said:

Check crystaltimes out. They could have a sapphire replacement. 

Nope, they stock for only one vintage Citizen. Having the exact sizes one could do a better search.

  • Like 2
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted
30 minutes ago, jdm said:

Nope, they stock for only one vintage Citizen. Having the exact sizes one could do a better search.

 NY0054 is the reference of this. 

  • Like 1
Airoh108 Member

Airoh108

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info the scratches are too deep to polish out I tried with polywatch and a diamond paste so I removed the crystal and its 27.71mm wide and 2mm thick I found some generic crystals at 27.5mm and 2mm thick and a sapphire same dimensions. Do you think I should go for 28mm wide? The crystal gasket looks fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted

If you have an accurate caliper i would go for a 27.8 .  But your way of measuring is not perfect . You could very well be measuring at a place where it's smaller .  I think this method is safer. 

DSC08811.thumb.JPG.dfde6b6e18cb68b7aa72b3b3fda072e8.JPG

  • Like 2
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Airoh108 said:

Thanks for the info the scratches are too deep to polish out I tried with polywatch and a diamond paste so I removed the crystal and its 27.71mm wide and 2mm thick I found some generic crystals at 27.5mm and 2mm thick and a sapphire same dimensions. Do you think I should go for 28mm wide? 

You will need the exact size, 28.70. To polish  deep scratches, first use 600 grit wet paper, in form of a 5cm disc on a rotary tool. Then move to 1000 oor 1500, and finish with diamond paste. Polywatch has no use on glass crystals.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Stefan New Member

Stefan

Posted
Posted
On 13.9.2017 at 8:00 PM, Airoh108 said:

Result on the crystal replacement thanks for all your info guys pleased with the result


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello,

I own the same watch since some days and the crystal is slightly scratched, so I would like to replace it. May I ask which crystal you finally used?

Which diameter is the correct one (above I can find 27.71 27.8 and 28.7)?

Maybe you even have an article number for a matching crystal

Thank you

Stefan

Airoh108 Member

Airoh108

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hello,
I own the same watch since some days and the crystal is slightly scratched, so I would like to replace it. May I ask which crystal you finally used?
Which diameter is the correct one (above I can find 27.71 27.8 and 28.7)?
Maybe you even have an article number for a matching crystal
Thank you
Stefan


Hi Stefan,
Will let you know later when I get home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stefan New Member

Stefan

Posted
Posted

Thanks for your answer. That already helps a lot to get an overview over available crystals.

That means, you replaced the domed crystal with a flat one. How did that change the look of the watch?

I think I would rather like to keep the original look of the watch.

It seems like I have to remove the crystal to see which thickness it has (middle, corner).

There are two Sternkreuz versions that might match the original:

MDH 278 (domed 2mm)

XMF/O 278.744 (domed with flat bottom 1.6mm - 3.2mm)

Thanks

Stefan

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Stefan said:

I think I would rather like to keep the original look of the watch.

For that purpose the best is polishing the original crystal. No need to remove it from the case. Many threads about that.

Airoh108 Member

Airoh108

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks for your answer. That already helps a lot to get an overview over available crystals.
That means, you replaced the domed crystal with a flat one. How did that change the look of the watch?
I think I would rather like to keep the original look of the watch.
It seems like I have to remove the crystal to see which thickness it has (middle, corner).
There are two Sternkreuz versions that might match the original:
MDH 278 (domed 2mm)
XMF/O 278.744 (domed with flat bottom 1.6mm - 3.2mm)
Thanks
Stefan


I love the look of mine the flat crystal makes the dial pop more but I haven't tried your suggestions. Let us know how it goes. Fantastic watches I have 3 now. Enjoy

346a42eddb542361c527f9c65f776709.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stefan New Member

Stefan

Posted
Posted

You are right, this looks better than expected.

Nevertheless I think I will go with a domed crystal. Will keep you informed and add some pictures.

Polishing the crystal doesn't seem an option to me, especially because a new crystal is available for under 10 €.

  • 2 weeks later...
Stefan New Member

Stefan

Posted
Posted

Here is the promised feedback.
As planned, I used a XMF/O Sternkreuz 278.744. I'm happy with the result. 

The comparison picture shows the new crystal on the left vs. the original on the right hand side.
You can see that the border of the replacement is a lot thinner than the original, in the center the height is comparable. If I would really like to use the watch for diving, I would't be very confident concerning the stability against water pressure. For swimming and normal use it should be sufficient.

The other two pictures show the watch before and after switching the crystal.

Thank you for your input.

IMG_5390.JPG

IMG_5393.JPG

IMG_5386.JPG

IMG_5401.JPG

IMG_5397.JPG

Airoh108 Member

Airoh108

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Here is the promised feedback.
As planned, I used a XMF/O Sternkreuz 278.744. I'm happy with the result. 
The comparison picture shows the new crystal on the left vs. the original on the right hand side.
You can see that the border of the replacement is a lot thinner than the original, in the center the height is comparable. If I would really like to use the watch for diving, I would't be very confident concerning the stability against water pressure. For swimming and normal use it should be sufficient.
The other two pictures show the watch before and after switching the crystal.
Thank you for your input.
IMG_5390.thumb.JPG.7fc7fc9743f6740428873da03c8bf8f7.JPG
IMG_5393.thumb.JPG.52d89686c6269f0e605efaa0c09db409.JPG
IMG_5386.thumb.JPG.cc15b9549925e63be29600b484e63e37.JPG
IMG_5401.thumb.JPG.ef76bf44fdfbb368e99f4068e021dc05.JPG
IMG_5397.thumb.JPG.ea14f4f26f1286c70ca37d3f3ee4b930.JPG


Very nice looks great



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • docrpm
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By docrpm · Posted

      Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • nevenbekriev
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • LMS
      Thermal Bluing Issue

      By LMS · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Removing stem from compressor-style case

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • tomh207
      Thermal Bluing Issue

      By tomh207 · Posted

      I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...