Jump to content

L&r Watch Cleaning Machine Ultasonic Vari-Matic


Recommended Posts

Picked up today an old L&R Watch cleaning machine ultrasonic VARI-MATIC.

 

It is really dirty but all seems to working but not sure if the ultrasonic part is working correctly but the valves are lit up so I presume it is working is there any other way of testing.

 

Also does anyone know if it is OK to clean the jars in a dishwasher.

 

A new experience but like a kid with a new toy at present.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Put some pieces of aluminium foil into the tank and run the ultrasonic for 10 mins or so. If the ultrasonic is working then cavitation should erode ragged holes  in the foil.

 

 

That's why this forum rocks! I'll try that trick in mine just for the sake of it! :)  Thanks for the tip, Marc!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys will try.

PS cleaned jars out with white spirit dried them & then run them through the dishwasher. They came out real sparkly & new.

Problem now is the dishwasher smells of white spirit. Oh f**k

Hoping the dishwasher cleaner gets rid of the smell before I get a severe reprimand !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem now is the dishwasher smells of white spirit. Oh f**k

Oh you bad man.

My good lady was less than amused when our cooker ended up smelling of aged Castrol oil. I had used it for heating up my old BMW motorbike cylinder heads to allow me to shrink in new pushrods tubes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put some pieces of aluminium foil into the tank and run the ultrasonic for 10 mins or so. If the ultrasonic is working then cavitation should erode ragged holes  in the foil.

This shows how powerful ultrasonic cleaning is, and why you shouldn't clean watch dials ultrasonically.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<script src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e67e874b/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js" type="text/javascript"> </script> PROBLEMS PROBLEMS

I knew it was to good to be true cleaned it today switched it on and it just gives two bleeps and smoke comes out of basket motor and does not spin. Have stripped motor and nothing obvious wrong. Does anyone know who repairs these motors. I have attached picks but a bit cheesed off at present. The second pic

is the smoke wafting out of the motor

 

post-234-0-19882500-1407071413_thumb.jpgpost-234-0-77126700-1407071414_thumb.jpgpost-234-0-95085700-1407071415_thumb.jpgpost-234-0-21361100-1407071417_thumb.jpg

<script src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e67e874b/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js" type="text/javascript"> </script>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow, sorry to hear about the motor! I have the same system, except it being a 120V setup for the US market. Mine seems to be Bullitt proof! I've had no problems with the motor at all. I know L&R are still in business, but I doubt they can or are willing to supply you with directions on how to repair this.

When these work, they are brilliant!

Maybe you can find a motor repair shop locally that can repair it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might not be the motor. Yesterday it was working fine then in the afternoon I cleaned it & when I started it up the basket was not turning but I had not plugged in one of the cables so I just guessed that was why and I just unplugged it.  I am wondering if this has screwed something else electrically as it is almost as though the polarity of the motor is the wrong way around. It now bleeps twice before starting which i presume is a warning sound and it is free when turning by hand but its as if the electronic unit under the motor is stopping it spinning.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for posting the pictures, what a beast of a machine.

That's a proper nuisance that it's stopped working. I see that there are are a couple of brush holders at either side of the motor, remove these and see what condition the carbon brushes are in, also have a look in while the brushes are out to check the state of the commutator. If the brushes are worn right down they will arc with the commutator and cause burning. Make sure you unplug it first!

Best of luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Geo,

Checked the brushes and they are good & nice & long. I also took the motor apart and there is nothing obvious wrong. The seller told me he had the motor re-wired and the machine serviced 10 yrs ago. There is a sticker on the side of the machine by ALGO SCHETRONICS with a test date of 6.6.02    I.e. 12 yrs ago.

 

I will give them a call (if still in business) tomorrow but if it is too pricey I might have a machine for "spares & repair"

 

I have contacted the ebayer who sold me the machine but as yet no reply.

 

Still cheesed off as it was working fine yesterday and thought I had a real bargain.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear about the machine! I hope and wish you are able to fix it soon. I understand they are top of the line and if fixed right will make you and your watches real happy. Hang in there and let us know of the outcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear about the problems, especially when the machine is recently acquired.  The new brushes may be an indicator but did they change the brush holders as well at some point?  Used to be common in repairing the commutator and brushes/holders in industrial power tools.  Guy's would buy and replace the brushes as needed but near the end of service life on the tool, when it needed the commutator turned and undercut, even new brushes would sometimes produce arcing and smoke.  Good luck, I hope you get it sorted soon!

Edited by RosscoInOshawa
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have taken it today to a local electric motor specialist who says that he thinks it has lost it's field. Have not got a clue what this means.

Contacted ALGO SCHETRONICS who say it will need re-wiring £400 +

Ouch, that's the worst case scenario sadly.  The field coil can short out wire to wire in the windings or wire to laminations and then it has to be replaced or, if no longer available, repaired which is labour intensive.  That scenario is maybe why it was arcing and burning so badly.  Shorted windings cause more current to be drawn, causing the brushes to arc, melting the brush holder.  So many ways to kill a motor.  Sounds like its a quality machine worth repairing though?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
×
×
  • Create New...